So, I have a 92 325is, Its been using the Getrag 5 speed which finally crapped out so i opted for a ZF swap. My car was running top shape when i parked it for the swap, Got the ZF in and everything went smoothly but now it wont start. The first try it did crank, Started, But squealed loud, Died 10 seconds later. Hasn't started since, But cranks continuously but somewhat like its dying on power? So i swapped a new battery, Checked all connections, Fuses, Fuel, Starter, All is ok. It cranks harder now but still wont start?!? I also tried jumping it with another car and same result, I am lost and in need of help if there is any?!.. Sorry if i posted in the wrong area, Also new to posting in these forums. But any help is appreciated.
Welcome to the Forum!
First step in diagnostic is to check for codes. Let's start with the DME, and then see if there are any codes.
If you don't have the ability to scan the car, you can also do what's called the "Stomp" test, this will blink out any codes using the EML light.
Also what you can do is go back and double check all your work and such.
Darin
Current:
16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
Past:
95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
M-Flight Member
No codes have shown, And i went back over everything, Seems to all be right but still no start.
Any chance you put the clutch disk in backwards? Not sure if that would cause your symptoms but seems possible. Google “e36 clutch disk backwards”
Nah i put a New sprung clutch and SMF in it last October, Its in correct. This is where im lost, This isn't my first trans on/off situation. But swapping to a ZF made it quit starting? doesn't make sense..
Last edited by Hammy828; 06-26-2019 at 04:51 PM.
Would not have anything to do with the ZF320. Swap has been done many times without issue. It’s something you did in the process. Did you remove the intake and unplug any wiring? Wedge something in the timing gear to help hold the driveshaft while tightening bolts?
I suppose you could have a starter that coincidentally failed at this time and is weak,!but it seems like you feel like it cranked enough to start.
Power to injectors while cranking? Are injectors spraying? Is there spark? Crank and cam sensor connected?
Engine ground connected?
Didn't remove intake, Just tilted the motor, Didn't unplug anything, Didn't wedge anything, Starter seems healthy, Its definitely turning as it should, Everything is connected, Sparking and spraying. Grounds not been touched. My last thought was swapping the fuel pump relay with one i know is working just to be sure cause my new fuel pump (October 2018) doesn't scream like the oem Bosch i replaced. After that i dont know what to check.. I went over all i have touched/Worked on and nothing is wrong so i truly am puzzled.
Cranks "harder"? If this mean it is laboring I suspect it may be cockeye and grinding away at the flywheel. Is it in correctly?
OR the flywheel doesn't have the correct teeth to mate to your starter. I'm not expert on mixing/matching components so unsure what combinations work or don't but perhaps something to investigate.
If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue
It never had an issue before, (Starter/Flywheel) But i am STARTING to suspect my starter may of crapped out, I have a veteran mechanic coming Tuesday to look it over, If he tells me its the starter then it will be addressed. Also i figured it could've been moved when installing the ZF but i already went back and adjusted it, Tried cranking before and after the adjustment and no difference occurred. So its either dying or something else electrical.. Ill figure it out Tuesday hopefully..
Last edited by Hammy828; 06-30-2019 at 12:32 PM.
Soooo... It was a seized clutch, For some reason, My stage 3 clutch witch was said to be for 323/325/328 and m3's Got stuck on the shaft sleeve and friction welded itself to the sleeve. Ended up having to cut an access hole in my bell housing of my new ZF and unbolt the pressure plate aggravating and painfully slow, Just to drop the transmission. Then proceeded to cut off the clutch and now will need to take a puller and pull off the remaining piece. Also cracked my bell housing but the trans is completely fine and i know a great aluminum welder, so the small crack will be touched up. Other than that.. Anyone recommend a good clutch kit for ZF swaps? single mass kits please. Also for the M50 N/V. Lesson learned.. avoid eBay/amazon clutch kits.
for more track/performance oriented cars - i've always had clutch kits from UUC, Bimmerworld, or Turner and haven't had an issue.
recently, on an e39 we did a valeo clutch kit from FCP (or it might have been bavauto then) and it worked great too. i typically tell folks make sure you get all the parts from the same source and make sure its someone that will provide support, be available if the wrong parts are shipped, etc. which is why i've used those mentioned above.
'95 325iS - auto to manual swap done!
Yea, I contacted turner to either point me in a good direction or to personally set a kit up for me and my needs.
What did you end up doing?
Im in the process of slapping a zf on my 98 323
And trying to avoid any potential failures.
Someone mentioned something about the dementions not lining up when it comes to the clutch disc
You might have to talk to someone about your specific car/motor/gearbox combo to make sure you get the correct clutch and flywheel for the application. I've had two clutches in my my E36 325i with a ZF box, both worked fine. One was suited for an E46 330i (which come with the ZF box I purchased and my current one is a twin plate Xtreme clutch (video on my YouTube channel of the installation) which is mentioned it will fit E30 318is (M42B18), E36 All Including M3, Z3 & Z3M and E46 All Including 330I & M3.
So I think you have a broad range of options. Hope that helps
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