Hi all.
This is my first post and i'm sorry to say i need help.
I've done the usual and searched the internet and cant find my symptoms anywhere. (many similar but not the same).
I bought 6 months ago a fantastic condition German model 320d that had been imported to Spain in 2006.
The car has zero rust and has been very well maintained.
The car has been a dream to own till last week.
I took it to a jet wash, pulled in and switched off the ignition.
I realised that i had no change in the car and started it back up to go and get some. (car never got wet).
The car started perfectly and off i went.
20 seconds later the car juddered and lost power and continued juddering, trying to cut out. (no engine light).
I went to my local garage and they cant even look at it till 3 weeks time.
I would love to eliminate as many problems it might be and possibly solve it.
I've recently changed all boost pipes and cleaned the maf/egr and this has made no difference.
The car starts perfectly every time and idle is perfect.
When i touch the throttle it'll rev to about 1500 rpm then cough splutter and spit smoke (runs real rough) and idle is bad (lumpy and coughing).
If i switch off the engine and start again exactly the same again, perfect idle till i touch the throttle and it fails the same again.
If anybody has any great words of wisdom or experience please let me know.
Once again the car hasnt been to the garage yet so i have no fault codes.
Thank you very much in advance for reading this post and look forward to any helpful advice.
Is this the common rail version or the injection pump version?
-Abel
- E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
- 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
- 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
- 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
- 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
- 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
- 2016 Mini Cooper S
Does this help ?
Options
Type AL71 Model 320d Market Europe Development Code E46 (4) Chassis Sedan Steering left Doors 4 Engine M47 Displacement 2.00 l Power 100 kW Drivetrain Rear-Wheel Drive Transmission manuell Color Schwarz 2 - 668 Upholstery Stoff Laser/anthrazit - G7AT Production Plant Dingolfing Production Date 1999-09-30
226 Sports Suspension Settings Sportliche Fahrwerksabstimmung 255 Sports Leather Steering Wheel Sport-lederlenkrad 320 Model Designation, Deletion Modellschriftzug Entfall 337 M Sport Package M Sportpaket 423 Floor Mats, Velour Fussmatten In Velours 428 Warning Triangle Warndreieck 431 Interior Rr Vw Mirror W Aut Anti-d Innenspiegel,automatisch Abblendend 441 Smokers Package Raucherpaket 465 Through-load System Durchladesystem 473 Armrest, Front Armauflage Vorn 481 Sport Seats F Driver/front Passenger Sportsitze Fuer Fahrer/beifahrer 508 Park Distance Control (pdc) Park Distance Control (pdc) 520 Foglights Nebelscheinwerfer 534 Automatic Air Conditioning Klimaautomatik 550 On-board Computer Bordcomputer 662 Radio Bmw Business Cd Radio Bmw Business Cd 715 M Aerodynamics Package M Aerodynamikpaket 760 Individual High-gloss Satin Chrome Individual Hochglanz Shadow Line 772 Interior Trim Alu Black Cube Interieurleiste Alu Black Cube 775 Individual Roof-lining Anthracite Individual Dachhimmel Anthrazit 785 White Direction Indicator Lights Weisse Blinkleuchten 788 M Lt/aly Wheels M Leichtmetallraeder 801 Germany Version Deutschland-ausfuehrung 863 Europe/dealer Directory Service Kontakt-flyer Europa 879 German / On-board Documentation Deutsch / Bordliteratur 915 No Outer Skin Protection Aussenhautschutz Entfall 972 Comfort Package Comfort Paket
Sorry no idea.
Vin ends in CA74714
If you let it idle for 30 seconds or more on a warm engine, what happens? Is the idle still "perfect"?
Last edited by Breeze1; 06-25-2019 at 04:18 PM.
If i don't touch the throttle it will idle perfectly for as long as i want.
As soon as i touch the throttle and give it a bit of rev it'll cut out and drop the revs,judder,cough,splutter,smoke etc, i let go and it idles real rough. i switch off the engine and the same happens again, perfect idle etc.
1 time in ten it'll let me rev up to 3500 - 4000 rpm fine before throwing a temper tantrum, engine is smooth as silk when it's right.
You have the mechanical injection pump m47 engine.
I would start by checking fuel pressure up to the injection pump. It could be a simple case of failing in tank pump, or clogged fuel filter.
Using proper computer diagnostics to log parameters as the behavior is happening will give you a lot of info.
-Abel
- E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
- 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
- 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
- 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
- 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
- 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
- 2016 Mini Cooper S
As mentioned by 328Power04 it could be your fuel pump failing. Two other possibilities associated with the symptoms are:
- Faulty MAF
- Vacuum leak, possibly caused/revealed by an increase in pressure after replacing the boost pipes.
I you unplugg the MAF and the symptoms go away, you'll likely have narrowed things down to those 2 possibilities. If that doesn't change anything, I'd be looking at that fuel pump.
Those old diesel management systems don't work like the gas cars.
-Abel
- E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
- 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
- 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
- 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
- 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
- 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
- 2016 Mini Cooper S
Cheers for that, i disconnected the maf and no change.
I'm trying to get it in to my mates garage Monday just so he can hook it up to his all singing diagnostics machine so i can at least get the error codes.
I replaced all the boost pipes after it started playing up so looks like a pump issue.
I'll post the codes Monday if i get them.
- - - Updated - - -
Thank's I'm hoping to get the error codes Monday but i'll be happy if it's something so simple as a pump or filter.
Hi all.
Sorry i've not been back on for a while but the garage is still to busy to get it diagnosed.
OK.
I've continued to investigate for myself.
When removing the inlet manifold i found that 2 of the bottom spacers were not fitted and had been crushed to one side and the seals weren't good.
I went to a local breakers and got a very clean replacement for it.
Before i fitted it i noticed a lot of fuel around the injectors so i tried to remove the return and it snapped in my hand.
I then went and bought just over a meter of pipe and replaced them (ALL).
After all this i tried to start it and it sounded different but with the same fault (ish).
I then checked the fuel pipes had not leaked and they were perfect.
BUT...... i still had a lot of fuel around the injector nearest the rad, (Front of car).
I put a socket on the nut and it was so loose i could have removed it by hand.
I tightened up the 2 nuts but it's still leaking.
Do i undo the nuts then tighten up the torx then tighten up the nuts?
I had ordered a fuel filter but not arrived yet. I did notice a shiny fuel pump fitted and it had a company sticker saying a web address for a racing company in Spain.
I have amazing fuel pressure as i checked when replacing the fuel pipes, fuel shot about 4 meters, lol.
Any help would be great guys.
The only way to really check fuel pressure is by use of a gauge. I’m not at all familiar with your engine so I don’t know if there’s a simple way to check the pressure. I’d start there after scanning the engine computer (DDM as it’s a diesel). Post the codes and their meaning.
Just spent another hour with it and i've managed to stop the injector leaking.
The engine now has NO misfire what so ever. SOUNDS GREAT.
That's the good news.
The bad news is now it will only rev up to 1500rpm,
No smoke no rattle Not trying to stall anymore no misfire no warning light. revs smooth and throttle is now responsive.
Hopefully getting closer.
At this point I'm suspecting either lambda sensor (the one that goes on the cat) or a clogged cat. You can try to rule out the sensor by temporary unplugging it (you don't need to take it off of the cat, you can just remove the connector that attaches to the cable which is coming from atop the engine). If it revs freely after removing it you'll have your answer (and probably a CEL code as well but that's fine if it's just for the sake of identifying it and replacing it).
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=18_0322
"If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity, nothing else matters." Alan K. Simpson.
5spd E46 "3XX": 328i engine, 330i Intake and exhaust, CAI, 323i diff.
Ok. Please stop with the speculation.
This is not a gas car, and it doesn't work like a gas car at all in terms of management.
Original poster needs to scan the DDE and run some live logs as to why the system is in reduced rpm limp mode.
-Abel
- E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
- 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
- 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
- 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
- 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
- 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
- 2016 Mini Cooper S
Care to elaborate on that? The car does have a lambda sensor which measures emissions, and I don't see why a faulty one wouldn't impair fuel management, as it does on a gas car. Other possibilty which I mentioned and is plausible is a clogged cat. OP specifically said he couldn't take the car to a dealer before some time and is here to get help in the meantime. He doesn't seem to be willing to get a scanner as well, so what is your point exactly?
"If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity, nothing else matters." Alan K. Simpson.
5spd E46 "3XX": 328i engine, 330i Intake and exhaust, CAI, 323i diff.
Thanks guy's i'll try anything to try and identify the fault.
Today i met a guy at the local breakers that has diagnostics and has agreed to go to the car Saturday morning and see what it says.
Sigh.
I could easily list 30 things that can go wrong with a car, and chances are that one of them will apply and fix the car. Result? Wasted time and money.
The proper way to fix a car is as follows:
1. Identify a problem
2. Take down detailed history, and other facts related to the problem
3. Inspect and look for signs and symptoms related to the problem
4. Come up with possible diagnoses using best possible knowledge of the subject
5. Run targeted diagnostic tests and record findings
6. Use results of diagnostic tests to validate your diagnostic
7. Repair issue
Anything else is just pure speculation.
1. Diesels do not operate on fixed air to fuel ratio. Diesels run from 17:1 afr all the way to 500:1 afr. They often don't have an oxygen sensor. If even equipped with a lambda sensor it's to monitor the cat life. Even then, it will not reduce rpm when faulty.
2. The car in subject is not even equipped with a lambda sensor.
3. Clogged cat is an absolute guess that doesn't fit the situation well.
-Abel
- E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
- 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
- 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
- 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
- 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
- 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
- 2016 Mini Cooper S
04M3 TiAg 69k slick-top 3 pedal
99M3 Cosmos 61k S50B32 euro 6Spd
88M3 AW 43k miles Project FS
WTB: 3.5" Eurosport/Conforti CAI
The clogged cat has been suggested after a few other things have been ruled out (apparently the case of the FP) and a few fixes were applied by the OP. A clogged catalyst is a guess, but IMO a reasonable one (even more so now that we know AFR's are not an issue) when other things have been checked and the engine seems to be choking, based on the symptoms. About the lambda sensor, I have been misled by the fact that it's shown on the link below (but actually greyed out).
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=18_0322
@MauiM3Mania I can see that you're still using the same technique as ever: criticizing/belittling other people's contributions/efforts while not making any. Very useful indeed!
Last edited by Breeze1; 07-09-2019 at 02:32 PM.
Who's being critical? I simply suggested that the OP listen to a learned forum leader (328 Power 04) and not to guesses.@MauiM3Mania I can see that you're still using the same technique as ever: criticizing/belittling other people's contributions/efforts while not making any. Very useful indeed!
You might want to show some respect, pal.
04M3 TiAg 69k slick-top 3 pedal
99M3 Cosmos 61k S50B32 euro 6Spd
88M3 AW 43k miles Project FS
WTB: 3.5" Eurosport/Conforti CAI
Respect is earned and works both ways, pal...
About guesses and all, I hate to break it to you, but even when a car is at a garage, hooked up to a diagnostics tool by a Tech who's reading actual error codes, there still is an element of uncertainty because sometimes an error code doesn't directly point at the real culprit but is just a byproduct of an another issue. Happened time and again to all of us, even the Techs. What I did here was trying to help the OP to the best of my abilities provided that he could not take the car to a pro before several weeks and he didn't (until yesterday) say in any way that he was willing to use a scanner. In other words, I adapted myself to the situation and yeah, that means guessing (wow, breaking news).
And for that I'm being judged by someone who belittles my contribution by basically saying that I'm just playing around, while not trying to help in any way whatsoever, and being lectured about respect on top of it?
On a side note, this is a forum, i.e. a place where both professionnals and DIYers meet because they share a common passion for a marque and are supposed to be here to help each other to the best of their knowledge/willingness to do so. If you want it to be a "Tech approach only" situation, don't call it a forum. Make a FAQ section which only Techs will be allowed to write in and call it a day.
Last edited by Breeze1; 07-10-2019 at 06:45 AM.
"If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity, nothing else matters." Alan K. Simpson.
5spd E46 "3XX": 328i engine, 330i Intake and exhaust, CAI, 323i diff.
The General BMW Mechanical Help area of Bimmerforums is where techs and highly skilled individuals provide professional level, solid information to members who come here for help. It's clear that the level of advise in this sub-forum is at a higher level than most other online sites.
Guesses and unfounded suggestions are a disservice to the those asking for the assistance, distracting to the skilled techs who are in the process of diagnosing/providing help and it simply dilutes the value of the forum. Lastly, the 'maybe it's this' variety of posts are frowned upon by many as indicated by private and public comments.
If my statements are not clear, send me a PM and not in this public area as it will be removed. This topic already has enough distraction.
04M3 TiAg 69k slick-top 3 pedal
99M3 Cosmos 61k S50B32 euro 6Spd
88M3 AW 43k miles Project FS
WTB: 3.5" Eurosport/Conforti CAI
Been let down again, guy not turned up to diagnose the car. Any recommendations for a code reader to buy ?
Abel, would the OBDFusion app help this gentleman out?
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