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Thread: 92' BMW 320i Cranking but won't fire and if it does it dies straight away

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    1992 BMW 320i E36

    92' BMW 320i Cranking but won't fire and if it does it dies straight away

    Here we go.... I'm no stranger to mechanical or auto electrical work being in this area for 10+ years, I've met my match with my bmw 320i e36 this is a 92 model, no ews, the car cranks, it's got fuel, spark and compression, I've swapped out the pump, the filters, sprayed down the intake, rebuilt the top end, new spark plugs, tubes and coils, removed the maf, connected the maf, check fpr which is pushing 43-46psi on test, have a 710cca battery to eliminate minimal power issues, I have fantastic grounding and power absolutely everywhere and I still have a car that refuses to run. I've never had this issue with anything so upon looking into things further I got every wiring component manual and workshop manual known to man from 1992-2018 bmw models, I've checked the DME, I've checked the other modules, I've checked continuity, I've checked and rechecked and checked a bit more and absolutely everything says this car should be running like road runner but it isn't. What's the go on the CPS and CAS with these vehicles? They're the only things I have not remotely touched yet and if they too prove to be failure to run this car I have 40L of premium 98 fuel sitting in a barrel that would look good as a bonfire, so if anyone has some suggestions I'd love to hear them. This does not mean I want to know how you pushed your accelerator while cranking to let off and flat foot it again with results, I want to find the cause of this issue and fix it properly so it doesn't give me headaches in the future. Thanks.
    Last edited by LuckyDucky320i; 06-24-2019 at 08:20 PM.

  2. #2
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    You can hear the fuel pump prime? Did you energize the fuel pump at the relay or at the pump?

    When you sprayed fuel into the manifold you got nothing?

    Bench test the DME and fuel pump relay. Measure the resistance of the switch contacts.
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  3. #3
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    I've had the pump out, I've followed the lines to the float side, I've pulled the lines off the fuel rail, I've lifted the injectors. I have fuel everywhere fuel should be.

    I have spark, I pulled the CAS and CPS today and they are like brand new, my spark plugs smell of fresh burnt fuel, the DME was changed for one out of a running vehicle.

    I've got everything that says this car should be running but it's not and it's become quite the pain in my ass. There's little info for the 320i E36 out there so I was hoping someone here may have had similar issue, the car cranks and cranks and fires for mere seconds before dieing straight away again then it's back to cranking, I've even added extra earths to be sure it isn't a bad earth. Today was a step forward I believe, I changed the firing order to which I also can't seem to find a straight answer. I understand 1 is at the front of the engine and fires 153624 but this being my first BMW are the coils supposed to be connected in this order as well or is it straight 1-6 from front to back with the order automatically firing? When I changed the order the engine really bogged in between cranking and after hitting a solid point it just kept cranking again?

    I'm almost at wits end, I have had a 2nd opinion from a good friend and fellow auto electrician that has also said it's got everything it needs to run, it's not throwing any fault codes and we've had the snap-on scanner on it to be sure. Surely there's something we have overlooked among things, something simple and easily overlooked on these vehicles?

  4. #4
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    What is the p/n of the CPS based on your VIN? Check here http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog
    DME Bosch or Siemens for your AUS/EURO model? Inductive or hall CPS?
    Crank sensors in engines usually consist of magnets and an inductive coil, or they may be based on magnetically triggered Hall effect semiconductor devices. Common mounting locations include the main crank pulley, the flywheel, and occasionally on the crankshaft itself. This sensor is the most important sensor in modern day engines. When it fails, there is a small chance the engine will start (engine will likely cut out after a few minutes of driving) but it mostly will not start.

    Symptoms of Problems
    When a crankshaft sensor has failed or is failing, certain timing problems will arise in engine function. The engine may start normally in some cases, but will cut off after a few minutes (or seconds) of operation. More than likely the engine will be unable to start at all. Since the crankshaft sensor is responsible for engine timing, the driver may experience engine backfire or irregular rpm function, if the vehicle starts at all.

    Read this thread: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ductive+sensor

    Inductive and Hall Effect RPM Sensors Explained https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/induc...kiril-mucevski
    Last edited by shogun; 06-25-2019 at 07:50 AM.
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  5. #5
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    I think you will be better off with a Buick or some carburated car. This car is to old to scan for any codes.
    Attn. NEWBIES: Use the search feature, 98% has already been discussed.
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  6. #6
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by shogun View Post
    What is the p/n of the CPS based on your VIN? Check here http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog
    DME Bosch or Siemens for your AUS/EURO model? Inductive or hall CPS?
    Crank sensors in engines usually consist of magnets and an inductive coil, or they may be based on magnetically triggered Hall effect semiconductor devices. Common mounting locations include the main crank pulley, the flywheel, and occasionally on the crankshaft itself. This sensor is the most important sensor in modern day engines. When it fails, there is a small chance the engine will start (engine will likely cut out after a few minutes of driving) but it mostly will not start.

    Symptoms of Problems
    When a crankshaft sensor has failed or is failing, certain timing problems will arise in engine function. The engine may start normally in some cases, but will cut off after a few minutes (or seconds) of operation. More than likely the engine will be unable to start at all. Since the crankshaft sensor is responsible for engine timing, the driver may experience engine backfire or irregular rpm function, if the vehicle starts at all.

    Read this thread: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ductive+sensor

    Inductive and Hall Effect RPM Sensors Explained https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/induc...kiril-mucevski

    This is why I keep coming back to the CPS but the chances of 3 individual CPS failing seems a bit out of the ballpark however the symptoms still point to it. Incorrect sensor maybe but how far between models did they begin to vary do you know?

    +1 for pointing out help information, never thought of inductive or hall.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eric93se View Post
    I think you will be better off with a Buick or some carburated car. This car is to old to scan for any codes.
    Interesting, a snap-on had no issue connecting with the vehicle. With comments like this I think you're better off not being on this thread thanks.

  8. #8
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    Changes in CPS came on BMW when they used Siemens engine controls instead of Bosch, as you have a EURO/AUS version, check the DME or post the VIN or check in the ETK with the VIN which BMW part number that is and then google, often the online shops mention detailed specs
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  9. #9
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    Update: I now have the car at a very rough idle, it wants to die balancing and feathering the throttle for a few minutes before keeping it flat to the floor keeps her alive, revs not increasing or decreasing from around 400RPM. I managed to get her to rev last night and made it to 3000RPM before she didn't want to run anymore, won't drive yet but still work to do.

    Air intake system has been pulled apart, IAC hose has been replaced do to being split, throttle body has been cleaned and have tried running vehicle without maf, she dies the moment it is unplugged. Won't be able to do anymore until battery is charged up again as I killed it.

    One of my spark tube's from coil to plug had a slight split in the middle causing spark to be inconsistent when firing, I've fixed this and have strong spark on all 6 coils again.

    Fuel is being delivered fantastically and have no issue with pressure, have also dropped the fuel and replaced it with more brand new 98 premium to rule out any stale fuel left overs that may have been evident.

    I've dropped all fluid from the vehicle being coolant, ATF and oil and replaced all with fresh fluid.

    Spark plugs have all been changed again to rule out any inconsistency with a brand new set of NGK instead of Bosch.

    I've noticed a popping sound at the airbox side that I'm currently investigating, doesn't sound like it's engine sided but does sound like it's got too much air.

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