Another E36 M3 project begins....

[BMWManiac]

Exhaust removed, axles removed, now I plan to actually just remove the diff and then drop the subframe with the arms attached to make it a bit easier or would it be easier with the diff still installed?

[BMWManiac]

Dropped the rear subframe....wasn't bad at all. I kept the diff in. Came down nice and slow and I've already removed everything from the subframe....loving the way this is starting to take shape and will look great when I go to put it back. I also decided when I go to put it all together, I'll probably do it piece by piece instead of trying to balance everything together...I have nothing but time.

[Positiveions]

Dropped the rear subframe....wasn't bad at all. I kept the diff in. Came down nice and slow and I've already removed everything from the subframe....loving the way this is starting to take shape and will look great when I go to put it back. I also decided when I go to put it all together, I'll probably do it piece by piece instead of trying to balance everything together...I have nothing but time.

OP congrats.
That is my final project : drop the rear subframe.

[BMWManiac]

Still in the process of tearing everything down. All that is left is removing the RTAB and real wheel bearings.

Removing the wheel hub from the bearing with the arm off the ground was a damn chore....I knew it would be, but given the space I had in the garage, I didn't have the room to do it first. Using a slide hammer and digging up a lot of ground in my lawn (it will grow back), I finally got them out. I then realized how beefy those rear wheel being c-clips are...wow! I bought replacements, but not sure I need to replace them.

Subframe bushings weren't bad at all. Heated with propane torch, then pulled them through...no drama....

Differential bushings were the worst ever. My issue was how thin the mounts are and finding the right socket or cup to pull them through. I thought I was good, but on the 2nd ear, I cracked it at the very end.....Replacing it is probably the only way to go...BUT, I was thinking of JB weld inside the crack and galvanized steel tube hanger to go around the mount. Here me out....drill out the holes to make the bolt go through both sides as you wrap the metal around it. I can't imagine there is enough force that would break the metal....maybe rust in a couple of years? I'll replace it before then, just thinking out loud. I'm pretty sure you don't need to remove the diff to remove the cover. I'll probably buy one, just wondering if someone ever did anything like that as a short term solution.

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[Skunk]

Nice one yo.

It is kinda fun when you have time and space.
Only issue I had was seized LCA bolts in the balljoints..

I got careless with the diff bushings and straight up broke off the cast iron ear. So I ended up just buying a new cover off of ebay. that was the only mishap of the job.

Changed out the diff fluid while it was out, installed the paper gasket which leaked so I opened back up and used the red RTV gasket maker.
I also refreshed the inner cv joints. I did the outers but learned quickly that was a big mistake and are not supposed to to be taken apart. took aaaaaaages to put it back together.
Reinstalled the rear end piece by piece, didn't have to worry about a wobbly 200lb or metal above my face.

[BMWManiac]

Sounds just like my experience! I also had my passenger side lower ball joint bolt get seized and had to buy a new one. I am not going to touch the axles. I cant wait to clean it all up, little paint, and start reinstalling everything. I will do the same....piece by piece, diff last.

[BMWManiac]

I love how the paint came out and I am excited to finally start reassembling the rear! Bearings and bushings in freezer while the parts get warm in the office...should start tomorrow!

Rear suspension.jpg

I did manage to get the driveshaft CSB and guibo replaced and reinstalled in the car. The CSB was actually not too difficult. I cut the rubber to remove the mount and then used the 3 jaw puller from Autozone to remove the bearing easily. Reinstalled using some cups that were the correct size. Also, a blessing in disguised....instead of repairing the ear with jb weld and some galvanized steel hanger, I decided to accidentally drop my diff while painting and have the same damaged ear break off.....only time wasted was cleaning the cover, ha!

IMAG1527.jpg

[BMWManiac]

Install all the Revshift subframe bushings, trailing arm bushings and some new OLD trailing arm bearings....these are the old 551s that I had for years before the 895s came out. I hope this is ok and not a design change? Anyways, simple enough to change out later with the right tools.

Only mishap I had was when I realized I put the oem rubber bushing into the driver's side wishbone the wrong way! Luckily, it doesn't look like I damaged it upon removal and reinstall. Those things are damn solid and probably didn't need to replace them to begin win.

While I wait to replace the diff cover, I plan to install everything piece by piece. I will install the brake components, heat shield, rear hubs with everything assembled.

Rear suspension ready to install.jpg

[BMWManiac]

Rear suspension is almost completely installed. Just have the diff and the rear sway bar.

I raised the hubs so there was approximately 13" from hub to fender and then torqued the inner 18mm bolts.

The only question I have at this point is concerning the center support bearing preload. When I installed the center bearing, it was at the VERY front already....there is no way to slide it forward anymore. What I did do was push the bottom of the bearing forward as much as possible when tightening it down. I hope it is enough. I'm surprised there was no more room in the bracket..

Exhaust center section is mounted, but not tightened.....almost there!

[BMWManiac]

I'm at the point where the car is 99% finished.

To answer my question above, I didn't realize that I had install the driveshaft/center bearing all the way collapsed....so naturally, when I went to install the differential, the driveshaft was too short. Once I lengthened it, the CSB was not at the very front.

Once everything was installed, I went for an immediate test drive. Everything felt great, except for the CEL. Turns out I got codes for BOTH front O2 sensors....guess pounding on the exhaust flange to remove the stud DOES INDEED destroy them...took a chance, but figured after 20 years/130k miles, probably good idea to replace both anyways.

Next up, more test driving, new tires, and alignment and she will be good for spring!

[Csrracer]

I started to read through your tread again as I’ve been looking into rebuilding a set of Vader’s to go into my Convertible M3 .
I just reread your issues with the carpet being to short and had a little chuckle as I have the exact same issue with my ‘98 .

[BMWManiac]

I started to read through your tread again as I’ve been looking into rebuilding a set of Vader’s to go into my Convertible M3 .
I just reread your issues with the carpet being to short and had a little chuckle as I have the exact same issue with my ‘98 .

Let me know if you figure out what happened! I am still baffled