1992 E36:Crank No Start Problem Again: Fusible Link Info needed.

[Grasshopper2Ant]

Hey guys,

1992 E36 325i coupe.

Crank / No start issue. Had issue of No power at all and jump with battery pack and started. Drove it to back and started on and off several times and while running it died and has not come back with continuous cranking. Previous, had intermittent issue of dash lights come on and when turn key it is like a dead battery. After 2 or 3 turn keys it would start. I checked battery and it is 12.6V which should be fine.

Had this issue before last year. Resolved by installing another used Crank Sensor.

I have a new Crank Sensor ordered.

Checking the fusible link connections at the jumper point under the hood. Red lead on big wire/Black lead on small wire.

With IGN OFF = 0 volts at the terminals.
With IGN ON =.04 volts at the terminals.

Can someone confirm I should get 0 volts with IGN ON and if .04 volts is a problem here??

Thanks for any input.

[Eric93se]

Just examine the fusible link in the trunk.

[Grasshopper2Ant]

Thanks for reply.
I see where the link is but it is shrink wrapped. I will cut it open tomorrow.
Do you think my .04 volt reading indicative of a bad link?

[Eric93se]

I don't know what wires your measuring under the hood.

Check your battery terminals, check the main ground wire under the exhaust manifold. You could also have a bad ignition switch.

[Grasshopper2Ant]

I am measuring the two wires at the jumper junction. They come out of the firewall from the positive battery terminal clamp. The small wire with the fusible link is also at the jumper junction.

Nevertheless, I took the shrink wrap off the fusible link and it looks 100% fine with the same reading so I put everything back. Was trying to test without having to remove.

Waiting for new crank sensor and replace and see what happens.

I swear this car has gremlins!!

[Eric93se]

Yeah but what's the black wire you're testing , just use the body as ground, like the strut tower bolts. If you have don't have 12v at the jump box then somethings wrong .

[shogun]

use the 1992 ETM and check systematically https://www.bmwtechinfo.com/etm/data/e36/e36_92.pdf
on page 0670.2-00 you see on the left the battery and from there goes the red wire to the power distribution box and there is inline F97 fusible link
P90 has 3 connections, A.B, C
A is shown on 0670.2-02 and is hot at all times
B is shown on 0670.2-06 and is hot at all times
C is shown on 0670.2-07 and is hot at all times

And the only item in between is fuse F97, the fusible link. Check that again, or use a jumper cable to bridge the fuse for a test.

Ever checked the engine ground cable? I just had such a problem of a not connected ground cable and that caused a no start on a Mitsubishi
Diagnosing the Symptoms of a Bad Engine Ground https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...-Engine-Ground

[Eric93se]

You can take a picture of the fusible link if your not sure, but I wouldn't jump it if it's fine.

[Grasshopper2Ant]

Solved, but not sure what solved it!!

I tested the new Crank Sensor at 538 ohms , installed it and would not start.

After numerous cranking the engine would start like it was running on 4 cylinders and starving for gas then die.

I replaced a bad looking split ground wire. I replaced a vaccum line, the one from the intake to the front of the engine. one half of the vaccum line was on the intake and was so soft if was crimped. the other half to the front of the engine was just gone with nothing connecting. I thought this was unnecessary.

After running a temporary tubing from the intake to the front of the engine the car would start!!

I think this is the cause of the no start but who knows. It starts but idles erractically. I am going to start a new thread to diagnose that.