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Thread: Camber on H&R Lowering springs

  1. #1
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    Camber on H&R Lowering springs

    Hey all, made a post on the FB group just looking for input from folks outside of that platform.

    After installing my springs I thought the rear was pretty low but didn't realize it was low enough to have a 3 degree camber.

    What camber are y'all on? This is pretty noticeable. Almost stance type camber...

    All new rubber around the car. Poly uro subframe bushings, new rubber otherwise. Just thinking, if I super torqued down the subframe bush they would compress a bit so I'll check that.

    I'd like to fix the camber a bit. I fear the end would break loose too easily with this setup.



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    Last edited by jaredmac11; 06-23-2019 at 08:09 PM.

  2. #2
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    Easiest is check subframe bushings. You can install them to have the shortest part turned up and even bolting them under the subframe. Bring the subframe as close to the body as you can will decrease rear camber.

    Roll Center (RC) and camber go hand in hand. Lowering RC increases camber; either by shorter springs or lowering the subframe. You want to raise the RC height in the rear to decrease camber. Tires will wear fairly fast on the street at 3degrees static.

    Things are worse when the rear rolls which happens easier with lower RC unless a way to adjust it statically. Factory there isn't a way to do that so just raising the subframe should fix it. Should at least get in the 1.5-2.0 range.

    Reference from E30s but same applies
    https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...0#post29590430
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  3. #3
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    Also regarding the alignment, I posted the before sheet if youre wondering why toe and all that looks way off.


    I wonder how much height on the subframe we are talking to correct?

    I installed the eurometric subframe bushings. I do know when I first torqued em down with my impact gun I squished them too much. I thought I backed it off a lot but I will have to check. but this cant be more than 1/4 of an inch of compression Id think. Youll see below the tab to mount them is dead even, so there's no wrong way to isntall them (I think)
    20190303_150540.jpg
    Last edited by jaredmac11; 06-24-2019 at 09:37 AM.

  4. #4
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    I'd hope those have a internal sleeve to tighten against so can't crush the bushing when torqued down. No sleeve is just lazy engineering. Yes just a 1/4" is enough to gain more camber. That mount being in the middle kinda messes up gaining some back. If the bushing is thinner on one end make that up against the car when installed. Also bolt the bracket under the subframe further making the top area shorter. Idea is get the subframe close as you can to the body to correct the camber some.

    It only takes 12mm or so on e30's to change close to a degree. Lots of factors like tire/wheel size etc but these days everybody is on 17s
    88 M3
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    "If it flys, floats, or f*cks, rent it!"

  5. #5
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    Yes it has a metal sleeve. Well I was thinking I needed to lower the subframe, add height to the bushings... but If I need it closer to the body I'll just torque her down more and see how she does.

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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by jaredmac11 View Post
    Yes it has a metal sleeve. Well I was thinking I needed to lower the subframe, add height to the bushings... but If I need it closer to the body I'll just torque her down more and see how she does.

    Sent from my Moto G (5S) Plus using Tapatalk

    If has a sleeve I'd torque down to the sleeve should be a dead stop. For sure easiest thing to try.
    88 M3
    91 318is
    91 318i
    83 320is
    08 X3 3.0si

    "If it flys, floats, or f*cks, rent it!"

  7. #7
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    Cool

    Quote Originally Posted by jaredmac11 View Post
    Also regarding the alignment, I posted the before sheet if youre wondering why toe and all that looks way off.


    I wonder how much height on the subframe we are talking to correct?

    I installed the eurometric subframe bushings. I do know when I first torqued em down with my impact gun I squished them too much. I thought I backed it off a lot but I will have to check. but this cant be more than 1/4 of an inch of compression Id think. Youll see below the tab to mount them is dead even, so there's no wrong way to install them (I think)
    20190303_150540.jpg
    Josh did a video on reusing the rubber mounts with the same shell,,drill holes in the rubber and sleeve the sides of the rubber mount to fill in the exposed gaps and drilled holes, then pour in polyurethane mixture strength of your choice-it finishes them off nicely . There are also on the market polyurethane inserts that reuse the older hardware.

    s-l500.png 80 Shore-Red and 90 Shore-Mello Yellow Color.

    Your Welcome.

    Randy
    Last edited by 320iAman; 06-24-2019 at 01:10 PM.

  8. #8
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    Cool

    You can adjust camber by moving the inside trailing arm bushing up/down vertically while keeping the outside trailing arm bushing stationary and vice versa, toe-in can be changed by single Z-Axis adjustment in forward/backward direction same as camber-holding one stationary. BMW has eccentric trailing arm bushings that adjust camber, they are unique in that they have markings on them as adjustment points--I have not seen these in some time-probably still available in Germany somewhere by job order or old stock-pictures of them in the BMW Blue Book and details. Caster is another story as both sides of the trailing arm bushes have to be moved to adjust Caster in the z axis directions.


    So, Trailing arm adjustments, Vertical one side-Camber, Z-Axis one side-Toe in, Z-Axis double or 3rd dimension both sides- Caster, Front end is another thing all together. Horizontal adjustment--adjusts the wheel base--not done except by those whom want to do a lot of work and modifications.

    Randy
    Last edited by 320iAman; 06-25-2019 at 11:47 AM.

  9. #9
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    Ahah, I think I installed my bushings backward, this would explain my cartoonishly large camber angle! Thanks Jody
    -John

  10. #10
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    Jared-

    My car had a similar look after installing the eurometric subframe mounts, I reinstalled them with the ears under the subframe as Jody suggested, and it does appear to have corrected the visible camber issue.

  11. #11
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    Oh shoot, thats good input. I had no idea such a small thing would make such a difference. Ill re-do the job this weekend and save my poor $40 tires.

    Im just not cut out for the stance life.

  12. #12
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    Cool

    You have the degrees camber with the rear axle carrier mounts on top of the rear axle carrier(stock setup), interesting to see the degrees camber with the rear axle carrier mounts below the rear axle carrier.



    Randy

  13. #13
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    Well the alignment was $130 so the world may never know... but I'll see if I can accurately record the camber to match what I have today and then record it afterwards.

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