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Thread: Mason Engineering clutch pedal arm LT ownership - or alternative

  1. #1
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    Mason Engineering clutch pedal arm LT ownership - or alternative

    Good morning -

    Anyone have a long term usage critique of the Mason Engineering clutch arm in their e36? Does anyone have additional suggestions for an aftermarket clutch pedal arm for the e36. Preferably one made of metal.

    I've replaced the OE so many times in my two cars it's becoming comical. There is NO iteration of the OE arm and bushing that doesn't have too much lateral wobble, that doesn't allow some "scrape-age" contact with the over-the-top spring when pushing the clutch in slightly to the left, that doesn't eventually crack in the exact same place at the top. We all know it's a PITA to replace. Tired of doing it.

    Thanks in advance.
    --TC
    Last edited by tommycat1313; 06-23-2019 at 07:40 AM.

    "Captain" 1995 Cosmos M3 5sp, s52 Swap, Conforti chip, CAI, Borla exhaust
    "Hellrot" 1997 328i, 5sp ZF Swap, Vogtland springs

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    F90 M5; E36 M3 Turbo
    I have had my E36M3 for 14 years and replaced my arm twice. Once with a Ron Stygar modified stock arm a year or so after I got the car (the original arm was about 7 years old at the time), and once a couple of years ago as preventative maintenance but the Stygar arm was actually in great shape.

    Have always used the Stygar Delrin or aftermarket bronze bushings and have not used a helper spring about half the time. Probably 100k miles. Most of the time with a heavy duty clutch that required more than stock pedal pressure.

    I would buy a mason arm if I felt like I needed one or if I found one cheap. Have not seen any other aftermarket arms yet for an E36. For later cars there is the Ultimate Clutch Pedal.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by pbonsalb View Post
    Most of the time with a heavy duty clutch
    Thanks for the info. Both of mine have stage 2 clutches and the springs on the plate are about twice as hard as stock to push. My concern has always been early failure of the plastic OE arm as a result. But also was concerned that switching to an unsprung aftermarket arm would wear out my left leg.

    I'll check out what you use. I don't mind spending the $ if it means not having to take out the frikin pedal bracket so often.

    --TC

    "Captain" 1995 Cosmos M3 5sp, s52 Swap, Conforti chip, CAI, Borla exhaust
    "Hellrot" 1997 328i, 5sp ZF Swap, Vogtland springs

  4. #4
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    Stick with stock. The improvement of metal over plastic doesn’t undo the terrible clutch modulation.

    Maybe this is fine slamming gears at the track, but on the street you grow very tired of it... especially paired with not so street friendly clutch kits.

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    are slow.
    If the concern is wobble or being off center, the only fix I've seen is the Mason pedal, or the Ultimate Clutch Pedal as mentioned above. Both clutch pedals are shorter than the stock pedal however, so if you don't have a stock clutch and pressure plate, it will require more force than a stock pedal. I would imagine a very stiff pressure plate and a Mason or UCP would feel absolutely terrible.
    "Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind."
    -Dr. Seuss
    DIY BMW Tools. Charlie For President

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    I'm a BMW fan to my grave, but they just got this one bit wrong. I'd love to stick with stock if it didn't feel so "Fisher Price" when pushing it to the floor. I've had the M3 for about 12 years and thought I would get used to it, and try as I might I just can't. It's my least favorite part of track day.

    Thanks everyone!
    --TC
    Last edited by tommycat1313; 06-24-2019 at 04:57 PM.

    "Captain" 1995 Cosmos M3 5sp, s52 Swap, Conforti chip, CAI, Borla exhaust
    "Hellrot" 1997 328i, 5sp ZF Swap, Vogtland springs

  7. #7
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    I just realized I did a lot of whining there...sorry. Lemme qualify it: The e36 is phenomenal and this has literally been my only substantive complaint about them.

    "Captain" 1995 Cosmos M3 5sp, s52 Swap, Conforti chip, CAI, Borla exhaust
    "Hellrot" 1997 328i, 5sp ZF Swap, Vogtland springs

  8. #8
    Join Date
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    1999 M3 and 1990 Jetta G
    mine is a bit bent and off center, but it's 20 years old has 195k miles and thousands of clutch presses (as does my stock clutch disk), it still works and doesn't make any noise... so I accept it's quirkyness as character.
    TRM Coilovers 670F/895R | BBS LM | Corsa RSC36

  9. #9
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    F90 M5; E36 M3 Turbo
    The seat may be offset to the pedal due to the narrow chassis and trans tunnel. Could this cause some to depress the pedal at an angle. Like if you have long legs and tend to go for the pedal at an angle from the left side? If so, you might be able to train yourself to be more efficient. There is a good tutorial on how to use the shifter so maybe a study of the clutch pedal also makes sense.

  10. #10
    Join Date
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    Minneapolis, MN
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    1995 BMW M3
    Which pedal bushings do you recommend? Stock, delrin, or bronze?

    Thanks in advance.

    Quote Originally Posted by Braymond141 View Post
    Stick with stock. The improvement of metal over plastic doesn’t undo the terrible clutch modulation.

    Maybe this is fine slamming gears at the track, but on the street you grow very tired of it... especially paired with not so street friendly clutch kits.



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