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Thread: Options for fixing spinning door lock

  1. #1
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    Options for fixing spinning door lock

    I have the dreaded spinning door lock on my driver's side.

    I bought a new catch assembly.

    But my door handles/surrounds are painted body color.

    I was hoping to be able to swap my painted lever over to the new assembly, but unfortunately it seems to be assembled with a long rivet of some type.

    Now, not sure what to do. I'm guessing I could try to get all those little pieces out from under the "T" and move them over to old assembly? But not sure how to pry them out.

    Can't find the rivet part info online either.

    Any ideas?

    IMG_9039.jpg

    IMG_9040.JPG

    IMG_9041.JPG
    Last edited by CLOWN5HOE; 06-22-2019 at 02:30 PM.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by CLOWN5HOE View Post
    ... was hoping to be able to swap my painted lever over to the new assembly, but unfortunately it seems to be assembled with a long rivet of some type.... could try to get all those little pieces out from under the "T" and move them over to old assembly? But not sure how to pry them out...
    Do you need to remove the pin that holds the cylinder together?
    https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ur-current-key
    BMW MOA 696, BMW CCA 1405

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vintage42 View Post
    Do you need to remove the pin that holds the cylinder together?
    https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ur-current-key

    Yes, but the one I'm having trouble with is the long black rivet pin that holds the plastic door lever to the metal assembly. Seems pretty permanent.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by CLOWN5HOE View Post
    ... having trouble with... the long black rivet pin that holds the plastic door lever to the metal assembly. Seems pretty permanent.
    One end looks hollow. Could that be an allen or torx plug that unscrews to allow removal of the long black pin?

    Door lever pin.JPG
    BMW MOA 696, BMW CCA 1405

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vintage42 View Post
    One end looks hollow. Could that be an allen or torx plug that unscrews to allow removal of the long black pin?

    Door lever pin.JPG

    It appears to me to be the mushroomed head of a rivet. I think that whole long black rod in one piece and the end is rivet'd over to keep it in place.

    It feels/looks like black plastic, but a magnet stuck to it and I scratched it with an X-acto and it was silver metal underneath the black.

  6. #6
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    I fished around in the base of my door and was able to find all the parts that had fallen out of my tumbler assembly. There really is no other place for the parts to go. Then it was just a matter of reassmbly, staking the cover back down and JB Weld.

    That would be the best option and then you can keep your new handle intact.

    PICT0002.JPG

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by steve f View Post
    I fished around in the base of my door and was able to find all the parts that had fallen out of my tumbler assembly. There really is no other place for the parts to go. Then it was just a matter of reassmbly, staking the cover back down and JB Weld.

    That would be the best option and then you can keep your new handle intact.

    PICT0002.JPG
    I'm hoping that happens. But when I shake my door around, I don't hear any little parts down there, so I got the handle as a backup.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by CLOWN5HOE View Post
    I'm hoping that happens. But when I shake my door around, I don't hear any little parts down there, so I got the handle as a backup.
    The parts will fall into the seam between the outer door panel and inner frame, so they won't rattle much, but they may slide well forward or aft.

    Good luck and it is always good to have a back-up plan now that these things are getting to be 20 years old.

  9. #9
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    There are also drain holes in the bottom of the door. I was able to find the spring (in the seam), but the rest fell out the holes.
    2002 M Roadster, Steel Gray Metailic, Gray Nappa Leather, Black Soft Top, Steel Gray Metailic Hard Top, TC Kline Double Adj Shocks with H&R Springs, Stromung Exhaust, SSR Type C Wheels. Looking for a new home.

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  10. #10
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    OK, I got this pretty much all back together, but have a question about RealOEM part # 5122187032 (#15 in the diagram).

    I ordered one of these, but I don't think I need it. In fact, the RealOEM diagram doesn't match exactly. I do have the larger white piece #26 in the diagram, but my #6 wire linkage is a different shape too.

    #26 connects directly to my linkage without the need of #15 I think.

    Am I missing something?

    Capture.JPG

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