Windows... Ugh!

[JasonInLondon]

The window is stuck up. Took off the door panel, regulator arms nowhere near the guides, but not bent. So far, so good.

Then I find the window guide in the door well. It's going to be a bad job now...
Going to have to Google how to replace windows just to get the bugger down

[JasonInLondon]

And I screwed up. I epxoyed the guide too far back. Smothered it in epoxy remover, hope I can get it out or I'll have to resource a replacement

[JasonInLondon]

Well that was a dismal failure. Windows back up, the rail didn't come off so I'll need to find a replacement.
Oh yes, looking at the rail that didn't come off, it looks like that black glue that holds the weatherstripping on. The rail that fell off was definitely epoxyed on. I think when the window was repaired by a garage a few years ago they used epoxy. I see the regulator isn't riveted on but has bolts.

[JasonInLondon]

What do you call this thing?

https://www.allmagautoparts.com/prod...s-e36#images-3

I can't find a name or part number for it.

[zellamay]

Try looking here: https://www.realoem.com/

[JasonInLondon]

Just had it down as "window"

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=51_2050

02

Side window, green, door, front right

1

02/1993

51328169014

$138.83

Ordered a second hand replacement window for £25 delivered. That'll do. Just need to figure out how to take the window out the door. Assume I need to lift that strip on the door to do it

[FiberFast]

I used a NON OE window on my drivers side... DON'T, piece of shit does not fit at all. Also these windows are a pain in the ass to adjust. I have had nothing but problems with mine and have even considered going to a manual roll up style.

[JasonInLondon]

OE window from a car that is scrapped and being stripped. Arrived today, looks good.
Also ordered butyl strips to redo the moisture seal

[Mless5]

Make sure you take out metal clips that hold in the rubber piece at the very top of the inner door metal skin- they will scratch the window as it comes out/goes in during assembly. You can see 3 metal clips I am talking about here in step 9: https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&sour...61832349297514

[JasonInLondon]

Todays adventure... Carrying tools and window to the car, get to the car, window slips and shatters. Great start.
Spend an hour picking the rail clean. Then pop the door, the rails will not marry up if I put it in.
Take out the window, spend 2 hours removing the epoxy to free the rail.

Use silicone on the new rail, but it refuses to hold.
Give up, take a break.

Remove silicone from the window, epoxy in the guide.
Put in car, some issues that I find is the forward channel, get window in channel, goes up. When coming down it always slips out that from channel and pops out the slider on the rail on the glass.

I've given up for the moment, I've blown the whole day on this. How do I get the window to stay in that front channel and actually work?
I feel so defeated by what should be a simple job.

[JDStrickland]

I'm late to the party, sorry. You can to to www.realoem.com and find the original part that you need. Using this information, you can then find aftermarket solutions, or drive across town to the local dealership.

[JasonInLondon]

A clamp solved part of the issue, wasn't putting those clips in properly. Kinda works but falls out the front rail every now and then. So so angry with this thing

[JasonInLondon]

Does the E36 sedan (not coupe) had 2 guide rails for the window? The front one looks hard wired in, and I don't see a rear one. But I don't know if these cars have one since its always in line with the window frame back edge.

I'm wondering if there should be a rear rail?


Symptoms.
After replacing the gliders.
window not aligned so I adjusted that nut that raises/lowered the front\back.
Window closes from all the way down.
Window will not open until I press the glass up at the front. Then when lowering the window pops out the front guide rail, its like it slips back a bit each time.

[Mless5]

Yes, there is a rear rail on the sedan that is actually removeable. It doesn't have any adjustability to it, but you need to be damn sure that your window sits in front and this rear guides before you attach it to the regulator.

[JasonInLondon]

Didn't notice it at all, must be hidden behind the metal. Anyone got a picture of it? I put my hand in that gap plenty while working on the window and never felt a rail. How far down does it go?
How do you get the window in the rail?

To get into the front rail I would pull the window all the way up, then lower slowly, I assume that would get the window in both rails.
I wonder if the people who did the window a few years ago removed the rail and didn't put it back.

[JasonInLondon]

I took a few pictures on the inside of the door today. No track on the rear of the window. Assume there should be one?



IMG_20190701_162828.jpgIMG_20190701_162925.jpgIMG_20190701_163231.jpg

[JasonInLondon]

Lots of internet looking later...

That aluminium thingy with the bolt is obviously where the rail should be. New rail is £30, rubber another £30.... Found a 2nd hand one from Denmark, both bits for £22 ish. That'll do.

Assume there is a little hook thingy at the top the rail attaches to looking at the pic?

s-l500.jpg

[JasonInLondon]

Just a quick question, those electrical connectors, what are they meant for?

[jmo69]

In the first pic? is that the door lock actuator?

[JasonInLondon]

The one that's plugged in? I assume it's the connector for the central locking based on what I am reading, that works. There are 4 disconnected electric connections and I suspect the mechanic who did the door last time didn't bother connecting them again so I'd like to get that all done when I put the rail in. I took a video and found:
Connector from the lock, disconnected.
White connector and yellow connector in the door well, male. Another white connector (female)

[Mless5]

Assume there is a little hook thingy at the top the rail attaches to looking at the pic?

s-l500.jpg

There is a slot up high in the door that hook slides into. Single bolt down below in the plane that is perpendicular to the glass.
One of the connectors is for heated door lock cylinder, one for the actuator I believe.

[JasonInLondon]

Fitted the rail, had to take the window out but it was a piece of p**s to do, easy to get a socket wrench to. Getting the window in the rails took about a minute, the rest was dead easy. Lots and lots of lithium grease later I now have a 95% working window. When rolling up, it will not roll down again until it's manually pushed up by like 2-5 mm more by hand on the front rail (sometimes must be done from the outside) or the door is opened and closed.

That'll do. It's been about 3 years maybe more since this window worked. At parking garages it meant opening the door to get the ticket.

Would not have been able to do it without your help. You gave me the confidence and input when I needed it.

[Mless5]

It is weird that you say you have to push up on it in order for the glass to start coming down. Are you essentially saying that the glass doesn't go all the way up?

[JasonInLondon]

It does though, I have to push it maybe 2-3mm. Not much at all. Seals and is waterproof

[FiberFast]

I was once told I must be a shit mechanic because I couldn't get mine right... On this forum actually lol. These are a pain in the ass, mine will not seal correctly unless I am pushing on it when it closes.