Sorry if this is “not allowed” but just a heads up ECS Tuning has the shark injectors on sale. 350 was always a little much for me to try one. But they’re 20 percent off. I’m excited to try it!!! Shark related question......does the tune/software stay in the car no matter what unless it’s removed? Like I know it’s silly but if say I get a new battery, that’s not going to reset the computer to stock tune right?
I would do research on this product before buying one in 2019 personally
I had a Shark on exactly the same car--I still have it lying around somewhere back in its "injector" as a matter of fact. My considered opinion is that it didn't really do anything in reality, although it made me feel like it did. I had it, a cold air intake, and a cat back SuperSprint exhaust, and I thought these combined boosted the horsepower by the advertised amount of each--like by 20 or 30 HP all told or so--I would tell people that inflated number when they asked about the car's horsepower like it was a fact. Since then I have supercharged the car and installed a big bore throttle body (BBTB), and thereby added real objectively measurable horsepower (which necessitated the removal of the Shark tune). Now that I know what adding 100 HP actually feels like--which is not that big of a difference btw, although it is noticeable--I can say that I don't believe the Shark or cold air intake or SS exhaust (or any other naturally aspirated bolt on tidbit for that matter) has any real world effect at all. I'll tell you what did have a real effect--rebuilding the Vanos, that's what. That was more dramatic than the supercharger at the end of the day (of course I did it after I installed the supercharger, so I don't know how dramatic it would have been on it's own). Rebuilding the Vanos gave me low end and mid range. The supercharger and BBTB gave me high end. The Shark tune gave nothing--but it did make me feel good at the time for relatively very little money.
Shark Injector device reflashes the DME (aka ECU) memory with a tune. Yes, tune will remain there permanently until it is reverted back.
Shark Tunes are very mild, and often don't produce noticeable differences.
Had a Shark tune on my M Coupe, and I've identified all the differences from stock. All rather tame, like a Dinan tune.
-Abel
- E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
- 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
- 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
- 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
- 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
- 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
- 2016 Mini Cooper S
Yeah I am not expecting anything crazy to be honest. I guess, 350 was too much for me to give into my curiosity but 280 was more doable. I am in no way expecting it to become an F1 car, I’m too old for that hype.
Breaker/— whatcha mean in “2019”? It’s a comment I can’t make out.
Last edited by nevan; 06-21-2019 at 08:04 PM.
2000 Z3 M Titanium Silver / Imola Red+Black Nappa
2011 328i E92 Space Gray Metallic / Leder Dakota+Oyster
Since 1987 12 euros / 2 kdms / 2 jdms
- Zach
Ahhhh makes sense now. Thanks
Did you have any definitive symptoms that the vanos was bad? I suspect mine could use a rebuild, but the only symptom I notice is a very lumpy idle for the first few minutes when it is cold.
If it was down on power in the low RPM range, I wouldn't notice because I've only had the car for 5 years and the vanos may have been bad before then.
If Mr. Bingley can't get back to you on this, I'll tell you my experience with my 2.8 (Single VANOS) rebuild. When I got it used, the car acted like all other manual-shift cars I had owned: to take off from first gear, you had to rev up to at least 3K RPMs and add more power as you released the clutch. After the VANOS rebuild, the car had so much more low-RPM torque that take-offs are completely effortless. No reving and no increase in throttle needed while releasing the clutch. The car just seems to want to go and became a lot more fun to drive.
Exactly this, plus I can now be in the 2-3k rpm range, and just step on it--no need to down shift at all. I would say I used to spend most of my time cruising above 4k rpm, so that I could accelerate quickly without down shifting; now I' drive around under 3k with all the acceleration available there. This is what I mean when I say it's more dramatic than supercharging--the super charger doesn't really begin to build boost until 4500 rpm (the curve is pretty much straight up from there). I rarely need to get into that range in ordinary driving anymore--I used to live there. Essentially the main symptom I can see of a failed VANOS seal is that the car had more power in the top end than at low rpm, which is in fact wrong--with a working VANOS it should have power right across the curve.
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