About to purchaes first BMW, differences in 2007-2010 328i reliability

[USS.GDub]

So my wife purchased a 2016 4 series a couple months ago and I really like her car. I've been looking for a second car to drive to work so I can keep the miles off my truck. Kind of have it narrowed down to a 2007-2010 328i. I would like a coupe but was hoping some people here could provide me with a little information. I asked on a couple facebook groups for suggestions and one group said that the 2007/2008 328s had really bad reliability including head gaskets and time chain issues. Some said they changed things in 09 and others in 2010. Another group said that all the 2007-2010 328s came with the same N52 engine and the reliability was really great on them. I would prefer a coupe but can only find them in my price range in 07/08 years. I did find an 09 sedan for a really good deal but my question is should I stick to 09+ or 2010+ or are the 07/08s the same in that regards. All of these cards have around 80-90k miles. Some with better service records than others. Any specific issues I should look for when going to test drive these? Thanks in advance. I strictly only know about American trucks and gm small blocks so the German scene is a whole new ballgame for me. This car will be strictly highway miles just to work and back, just don't want to get into something that's a known money pit, though I know anything can happen.

[White94RX]

You've got some mis-information. The N52 engine has never had head gasket or timing chain issues. The N52 has proven to be probably the most reliable engine BMW has built in the last 10-15 years.

[USS.GDub]

You've got some mis-information. The N52 engine has never had head gasket or timing chain issues. The N52 has proven to be probably the most reliable engine BMW has built in the last 10-15 years.

Does that include all years of the n52, 2007 and 2008? What should I be looking for when test driving these for areas of concern? I get it's an older car and not expensive, but I know how fast repairs can add up on these. Trying to avoid it as much as possible. Thank you!

[Codes2]

Having to agree (obviously, right?) with White94RX.

There may have been some difference in the N54 (twin Turbo) in those years (forged internals or not), however the N52, in my personal experience and in reading, is quite solid.

Don't get me wrong, there are a number of predictable issues on the E9x platform, which varies based on engine.

I hesitate to say much at this time, as it looks like you need to start your research again. Many of us can make a 'common list', but I feel I should bow out for a bit until the traction is pulling in the right direction.

[FLYIN4D]

OP,

You'll be just fine. Don't hesitate buying if the car has any documentation history, or a good carfax that reveals it had been maintained properly. I am in the same boat. I will be picking up my '08 328i Coupe 6-speed manual car next weekend. Price is right and I already know what needs repaired (OFHG); will do it myself. In my search my only requirement was it had to be a 6-speed manual car. I didn't want to deal with an automatic trans car. Just one less thing I'd have to worry about or deal with.

Check around in your local area to speak with some independent BMW specialist shops. Choose one and have them do a pre-purchase inspection (PPI). Cost is usually around $100-$130.

On your paperwork or carfax check to see if the following have been replaced/repaired/serviced yet:

1. Water Pump & Thermostat - DIY or independent shop

2. Oil Filter Housing Gasket (OFHG) - DIY

3. Valve Cover Gasket - DIY

4. Oil Pan Gasket - can be done via DIY, but you'll need a lift and some help. A good independent shop will charge $700-$900 installed.

5. Transmission Fluid/Filter change - can be done via DIY or shop.

If none of those gaskets are leaking at the time of purchase it'll just take some time, but eventually they will. Simple stuff. The N51/N52 are bulletproof motors. You received some bad info from the FB comments.

When you test drive it run it through all the gears and listen/feel how the motor sounds and transmission shifts. Listen for weird noises and things that don't feel right. Shift the trans in manual mode and auto mode - make sure paddle shifters work properly if it has those.

Drive it on the highway to see how it steers and handles. The steering wheel should be solid, steady and the car should track well. If its shaking it could mean several things; tires out of balance, warped rotors, out of alignment, or worse......front end accident history. Once you're up to speed, test the brakes. Make sure its not shimmying when you brake soft, medium or hard. Drive it in stop-n-go traffic too.

Don't baby the car on the test drive. Get the owners permission to drive it a little hard. Once you're in a safe location on the highway run it WOT to see how things go/sound. Drive it for at least 15-30 min. Smell for burning oil or anti-freeze smell.

Check all the body panels for fit/finish. That could tell you if the car has been in an accident or someone had the body parts off the car at one time or another. Check the wheel well liners.

Check all the bells and whistles to make sure they all work. Check the A/C and heater to ensure they're working properly.

I always make a long pre-drive & post-drive checklist and mark things off as I go; just makes you look at the car harder.

The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of a low price has been forgotten. There's nothing more expensive than a cheap BMW.

Good luck and hope you find the one you're looking for.