I need to replace the engine in my 05/2002 530i. I can get a 2000 Z3 M54B30 for not too much in known good condition. I would be transferring over the accessories, intake, exhaust manifold, etc to the replacement engine. From what I have found, there shouldn't be a reason the block and head wouldn't be compatible with all my other components. Will this work, or should I find something else? I found a post from bluebee gathering information on the compatible engines for the E39, mostly from user Jimmys 530i, on bimmerfest: https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=526617 I imagine the mention of the 01-02 Z3 and not the 00 is likely an omission, but it would be good to get a confirmation.
Thanks
Last edited by fourier; 06-21-2019 at 12:33 AM.
Assuming this is a verified M54B30, this should work fine..you will likely have to use the 530i's oil pan.
However, it is unclear to me when the Z3 switched from the M52TUB28 to the M54B30. Was it '00 or '01(like the E39 and E46) ? Wikipedia says the Z3 actually switched to the M54 in '99 which I don't think is right.
The M52TUB28 and the M54B30 look nearly identical. They way to tell is to look at the small plate at the bottom of the driver's side of the engine block (sort of below the starter) - you may need some brake cleaner, a wire brush and a flashlight to read it. There are 2 rows of numbers on the plate. If the bottom row starts with "30" then it is an M54B30. If it starts with a "28" Then it is an M52TUB28.
Thank you for the reply, effduration. I know the plate you are talking about, and I'll try to confirm that too when I have a chance. On the rear of the motor, it has the silver label with CN53 production code and M54 E36 which indicated to me that it should at least be the M54. I don't know if the 2.2 was available in the US -- it looks like wikipedia says it wasn't.
I confirmed the second row of numbers begins with 30. Thanks again.
What happened to your orig engine?
We haven't had an engine replacement thread in a while. Want to keep us posted?
The engine lost compression at 230k. It wasn't overheated. The cooling system failed on it over 110k miles ago, it did overheat for a minute before I realized and pulled over; I did a complete overhaul of the cooling system at that point. I actually should have proactively overhauled it since the previous owner was clueless about the cooling system issues in these cars and said it hadn't been overhauled at 112k. The engine has had a chronic oil consumption issue since I got it in 2012 that had been getting worse. No black, blue, or white smoke. My guess would be the piston rings, but I didn't do a full diagnostic as I should have (I'm usually 600 miles away from where the car is). I was going to rebuild, but at this point it makes more sense for me to just replace the engine as it will be less time, work, surprises, and money in my current situation. I'll hang on to the engine to pull it apart later and find out what happened.
I'm more of a private person, and I've got a lot of important things I have to get to in short order. This post would be the first internet post I've made in about five years anywhere. Also, I wouldn't think this would be anything out of the ordinary or add much to other guides or threads, especially since I've already taken off most everything I need to off the old one.
FWIW the rotating assembly of your tired 3.0 is desirable for those looking to "stoke" their 2.5/2.8s. Should easily sell in the parts classified section here.
If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue
Bookmarks