Member
First Post --- Just purchased a super nice 1999 Z3 2.5 Roadster. The car has less than 29k miles. Last oil service was in Oct. '16 less than 1k miles back. 10W-40 oil was used (don't know brand or type). This and its filter need to be changed. Thinking about full synthetic. What weight is recommended? Thanks
Member
Welcome to the forum. It's an excellent source of information from lots of knowledgable members more than willing to answer questions.
20k miles on mine recently purchased and I just had all fluids done. Based on reading many posts here, it looks like Amsoil synthetic is the most common recommendation. I did a lower viscosity 5w-30, but I don't live in New Mexico. I would think your 10w-40 makes sense. Amsoil is very popular for manual transmissions due to how effective it is at smoothing out the shifting. I also did Amsoil differential oil. All other fluids I went with BMW products. I supplied the Amsoil products and the dealer handled everything else.
Last edited by Tigershark48; 06-19-2019 at 09:02 PM.
Ralph
I run Mobil 1 0W40 Euro spec full synthetic in my S52 M Roadsters. Other than saying what we use, there is no truly supportable justifiable basis for preferring one over another. The science is all over the board and none of us have the right letters after our names to offer more than that.
Last edited by Mr Bingley; 06-19-2019 at 08:59 PM. Reason: missed a word
Member
You can read up on this site and learn quite a bit about oil. I highly recommend it being an engineer myself.
https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/
Member
5w-30 should always be run for rod bearing clearances. Anything less is ok, u could even do 0-20... nothing more is ever necessary
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Sim Simma
Moderator
0w40 Mobil1 Euro Formula in all my non-M engines (and S52's) never had an issue
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I only ever run Schaeffer products in my cars. My neighbor is a dealer, so that helps too...
Ralph
I've read through that blog several times before and caught up on it again just now--thanks for the link. 540 RAT presents a lot of data and analytics that could be useful, but he is such a poor writer that it gets in the way of actually using his results to make decisions. Each time I try to use his blog to inform my oil choice I get to an information overload resulting in paralysis of decision making, and I walk away basically no more informed than I started. This time I see that Mobil 1 0W40 has risen in his ranking to #6 with its newest formulation, which is about the best take away I've ever gotten out of it--to check where my oil ranks in his estimation, but no more. It would be interesting to see the results of pairing him with a writer.Originally Posted by rboehl
Member
Thanks to all who replied. Santa Fe is at 7,000+ feet above sea level. The temps rarely get to 100F in summer and can get down to below 0F in winter. I'll go with a full synthetic and either 10W-30 or 10W-40 weight. Off now to BMW to get a filter for it. JWL
Member
jus use 5-30 .. 10-30 wont make it fast enough to head and overtime you’ll have valve tick on startup jus use what the engine wants ...
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Sim Simma
Moderator
Ive never heard valve tick with 10w30. Your post also makes me feel I should explain what those numbers mean...
The first number is viscosity at 0 degrees farenheit. Second number is viscosity/flow rate at 100F. In Santa Fe new mexico he will barely ever see below freezing. As such, a 5w30 and 10w30 (and even a 0w30 and a 20w30) will behave the same, as 30 weight oils, since they will never be cold enough to function as their "winter" weight (which is the first number in the 5w30)
A 0w40 will give him a wide operating range well suited to his climate
Top-Hoist
I switched from synthetic 5W-30 to synthetic 5W-40 to cut my oil consumption down. I does consume less now.
Member
[QUOTE=BimmerBreaker;30281520]Ive never heard valve tick with 10w30. Your post also makes me feel I should explain what those numbers mean...
The first number is viscosity at 0 degrees farenheit. Second number is viscosity/flow rate at 100F. In Santa Fe new mexico he will barely ever see below freezing. As such, a 5w30 and 10w30 (and even a 0w30 and a 20w30) will behave the same, as 30 weight oils, since they will never be cold enough to function as their "winter" weight (which is the first number in the 5w30)
A 0w40 will give him a wide operating range well suited to his climate
I think we've been over this before, but viscosity thins with a heat increase, not the opposite as you explain the SAE numbers, its simple physics., "multi-viscosity" oil has been a misnomer for decades,all oil viscosity has varied by temperature since oil was discovered.(except for the magnetic stuff in shocks)
Phil
my 2.5L was ticking when i bought it - with 5w-30 mobile 1. there were no signs of consumption, but i changed it early to a new pan full of mobile 1 5w-30 - still ticked. changed to 0w-40 and problem solved, no more tick.
i went back to 30 once, tick came back. it isn't a worrying sound, but it's loud enough i wanted to run the 40. i've gone from 0w to 5w-40 a couple times.
my old mechanic claimed the 0w wouldn't provide enough cold start lubrication... but at 133k miles, i'm not seeing any signs it's been bad for the engine.
Cheers,
Phil
Member
I also use Mobil 1 Full Synthetic Euro 0W40. Zero oil consumption on a 125K motor (at least at my current interval of 3K mi or 1 year, whichever comes first). And my Blackstone Lab results have been coming back very positive.
Another bonus of the Mobil 1 is it's widely available, and you can get even the Euro formula super cheap at WalMart.
I don't normally recommend anyone go to WalMart for anything... but it's about the only thing I'll go there for.
Sim Simma
Moderator
Where did I say oil thickens as it heats?
I never said that...
Synthetic multi-grade oils have additives that change the flow rates, and allow them to function as lower weight oils when cold and higher weight oils when warmed up. This gives them a much larger operating range than single weight oils, which yes also change viscosity as they warm up - but function as a 30 weight at 0degrees F and at 100degrees F, because flow rates are defined according to a baseline at a set temp. A single grade 30 weight oil is a 30w30 because it functions as a 30 weight oil functions at 0 deg F and at 100 deg F. A 5w30 acts as a 5 weight oil at 0 degrees F and a 30 weight oil at 100 degrees F
Member
its not where u live its what engine’s in your car
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I believe factory fill or Dealer service would have been 5W-30 late 1999 -early 2000.
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Last edited by bluptgm3; 06-21-2019 at 02:43 PM.
Grumpy
BMW CCA Member
Oil viscosity is not a set point. each value is a range. the "30" is a wide range. BMW specified a very thick and chewy 5W/30. Most 5W/30s back then did not meet BMW specs, and even fewer do now ("energy saving!!" = thin). The easy answer is to pick an oil that meets BMW LL-01 specs. 5W/40 and 0W/40 Liquimoly is my choice. I did feed my supercharged S52 10W/60 once, but saw no reason to stick with it once I installed the oil cooler system.
/.randy
Member
LOL, "30 is a wide range", but it shouldn't be, that's why they made the viscosity flow charts, a 10 is a 10 and a 30 should be a 30!,kinda like tires, my new 255 Proxes are 1&1/2" wider than my 275 Federals.
Member
Jeez, and supposedly Federals run wide. Fwiw I use Mobil 1 Synthetic 5W-30 in my car, had it since 137 not at 163 and she still runs hard to redline most every day. I get all my servicing done at the Mercedes dealer I work for
Member
Yes, not all 5W-30 oils are the same.
In the late 1990’s BMW 5W-30 was Castrol European Car Formula that exceeded most 5W-30 oils for viscosity @ 40C and 100C.
Ultimately, we should be using an API SL/SN, ACEA A3/B3 (generally BMW LL-01) rated oil. For instance not all Mobil 1 formulas carry these ratings. Mobil 1 offers two grades in their High Mileage formula, 10W-30 and 10W-40 that do carry API SL/SN, ACEA A3/B3 rating.
Conversely standard Mobil 1 only qualifies in both systems (API and ACEA) in 15W-50.
The Mobil 1 European Car Formula 0W-40 carries the API SL/SN, ACEA A3/B3 ratings, as does the 5W-50 ECF.
LOL!!! It should be noted that Mobil 1 no longer carries the “BMW LL-01” identifier on their products and has this to say about their product line
“Based on what you've told us, your vehicle manufacturer recommends a 5W-30 viscosity and oil that meets BMW Longlife-01. We currently do not offer any motor oils in the United States that meet these specifications.”
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Last edited by bluptgm3; 06-21-2019 at 06:27 PM.
Member
No recommendations from my side. I will just share what I have run on our two BMW's thus far.
I have had the Z3 (98, 2.8, @40K miles, presently @90K miles) since 09/2009 and the 328Ci (00, 2.8, 86K miles, presently @123K miles) since 01/2015. On the Z3, initially was Rotella T6 5W-40 for a long time, then Pennzoil Ultra Euro 5W-40, followed by Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5W-40 and presently Pennzoil Platinum Euro 0W-40. I prefer the present oil in the Z3; that is until I start with Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5W-30. I hope to settle on the 5W-30, once I get rid of the 40 upper weight oils.
The 328 started on Shell Rotella 5W-40 for about one change, then PP Ultra Euro 5W-40, followed by PP Euro 5W-40, and presently on PP Euro 5W-30. I prefer the 5W-30 in it amongst the various types it has used thus far.
However, both cars exhibit no oil consumption and continue to perform exceptionally well.
Last edited by aba4430; 06-21-2019 at 01:53 PM. Reason: Corrected typo.
Sim Simma
Moderator
Then why do manufacturers recommend differnt oil weights depending on the climate the car would be driven in?
Member
Because they want money (and all engines are different). We’re talking about BMWs, and BMWs (throughout all decades) built extremely tight tolerances into the rod bearings, main bearings, and crankshaft journals. It is literally the engine in ur car that decides the oil, not where you live. where you live will never be as hot as the inside of your engine when at operating temp. In terms of cold weather weight you never need go above a 0w or 5w. my dude if u lived in arizona and ONLY tracked your car all you need is 5 30 . it’s the extremely non compliant clearances bmw built into the rod bearings and the way oil flows through the filter housing and return valve. You need thinner oil to get in all the spots and lubricate the nooks and crannies. We dont drive old chevys.. Also companies say crap all the time .. i love old bmws but man they did and said a lotta dumb crap ...
I, too, once thought, i was smarter than the people who designed and built my engine, and used a heavier weight oil, because I live in a desert. Little did I know, sometimes you can jus give in, be wrong, and use the right oil thats been without question for the last three decades, because in the end, you didnt design and build the engine, and you’re just the guy who lives in the desert and reads the internet like the bible.
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