So my RR lower shock bolt stripped out. I attempted to use a helicoil kit to repair. I drilled the hole straight but tapped it at a slight angle. The bolt won’t simply slide through the shock anymore, I have to push on the bolt by hand and flex the rubber bushing in the shock itself to start the bolt. Torques up fine but I’m worried the little bit of load on the shock will prematurely wear out my TC Kline damper.
I have a CNC shop that will redrill and tap the hole for a timesert (uses bigger drill) at the correct angle on a mill. The tap didn’t go all the way into the hole so there is some virgin pilot hole left for them to set up to. I just need to get the trailing arm and could probably leave the axle in the hub if it doesn’t want to come out . My question is, can I leave the axle on the trailing arm and take the whole thing with me? Or will the axle somehow prevent removing as an assembly?
Unbolt the upper and lower control arms from the trailing arm. Unbolt the half shaft from the diff on that side. Unbolt brake caliper/carrier and brake line hardware from the trailing arm and set it on a box or something under the car. Remove brake rotor and disassemble parking brake mechanism so the cable is free.
After that it should just be a matter of unbolting the trailing arm from the body (where the RTAB is) and you should have yourself a free trailing arm assembly with the bearing and half shaft still attached. I'm not sure how difficult it is to unbolt the half shaft from the trailing arm, as I've never done that before. That's why I suggested just removing it from the diff side.
Last edited by TostitoBandito; 06-19-2019 at 01:02 PM.
1999 M3/2/5 - Titanium Silver - Track/Weekend Toy
The rubber bushing probably offers enough play that the shock won’t be damaged. How cockeyed is it? And I assume you are using a jack and block to line up the lower shock mounting point and the trailing arm and still having major problems getting the bolt through and in.
E30 lower shock bolts are slightly longer than E36 bolts. You may be able to catch enough threads to tighten the longer bolt down...but sounds like you are beyond that now.
CBlock
I just removed the whole RAC from my parts M3 so maybe these photos will help. But short answer is it can be done but what a pain. You'll have to remove the parking brake cable also. It's a lot easier to maneuver without the half shaft installed. Careful not to hyperextend it.
Are you sure you can't just grind a tad off the side of the area around the bolt hole, so the newly helicoiled hole is perpendicular to where the bolt head lies? Or even use a tapered washer??
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Lots of options but my OCD self wants the hole straight. Your 2nd photo shows exact
y how I envision it looking when putting it on the mill. It’ll probably be fine just the way it is.
If the axle shaft comes out the hub easy, then so be it. But I’ve read it’s sometimes in there pretty good requiring dropping the trailing arm anyways and putting it under a press.
Sometimes it’s easier getting the axle out than back in.
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