Here you go. Vehicle information
Type Value VIN WBAGJ0334XDD73031 Prod. Date 1998-09-15
Type 750IL FACELIFT (USA) Series E38 (7 Series) Body Type LIM Steering Left Hand Drive Engine M73TU Displacement 5.40 Power 240kw / 326hp Drive HECK Transmission Automatic Colour ASPENSILBER METALLIC (339) Upholstery STANDARDLEDERGRAU (N8TT)
Comfort and interior equipment
S438AFine wood trim S464ASki bag S494ASeat heating driver & passenger S496ASeat heating rear S401ALiftupandslideback sunroof electric S416ARoller sun vizor rear lateral S431AInterior mirror with automatic dip S441ASmoker package S456AComfort seat with memory S460AComfort seat rear electr adjustable S473AArmrest front
Multimedia
S609ANavigation system Professional S640APreparation f telinstallation universal S677AHiFi System Professional DSP S645ABMW US Radio S672ACD changer for 6 CDs
Driver assistance and lightning
S508APark Distance Control PDC S502AHeadlight cleaning system S522AXenon Light
Wheels and drive
S248ASteering wheel heater S261ASide airbags for rear passengers S202ASteptronic S210ADynamic stability control S216AHydro steering servotronic S220ASelf-leveling suspension S223AElectronic Damper Control EDC S245ASteering wheel column adjustment electr
Environment and safety
S307ABMW light alloy wheel radial spoke 61 S345AChrome Line Interieur S357AProtective glazing S818ABattery master switch S302AAlarm system S354AGreen windscreen green shade band S826AFahrwerk in Exportabstimmung S845AAcoustic belt warning S850AZUSAETZL TANKFUELLUNG EXPORT S853ALanguage version English S876ARadio frequency 315 MHz
Other equipment
S925AVERSANDSCHUTZPAKET S992AControl of numberplate attachment
Restoring a few BMWs
DD74445
Save her OP. Save her!
OK, have given my info and await contact...
The next question is, how do I approach starting this thing. I planned to tow it out to a garage, but had a friend suggest I could put in a new battery, top up the tank with premium, and "try to start it"... seems risky to me.
I was thinking all the fluids would need to be changed at a minimum. Any tips?
I'd personally pull the spark plugs, squirt a little light oil into each cylinder (something thinner than engine oil). Turn the engine over by hand, making sure it turns freely. If it does and the oil looks ok, fresh battery, top off the tank with fresh high octane fuel. Crank it with the plugs out to blow out any excess oil. Put the plugs back in, start it up. Once it warms up a bit and you've checked for any major fluid leaks, shut it down and change the oil and filter.
Once it's running, I'd plan to change the trans fluid, diff fluid, brake fluid, etc. You'll end up changing the coolant in the process of replacing any questionable parts in the cooling system. Beyond that, it'll pretty much be "assess it and see what else needs attention."
It’s a v12 - taking the plugs out is a bear - esp in the back. You could break things doing that. It is not ideal, but I go with just starting it with fresh batteries, and gas. If it is stuck, it is stuck - thin oil likely won’t help. Good luck. I have vin DD73956 - Dec 99 prod for 2000 model year - they did not make many of these.
I agree with everyone. If you can save it, go for it. They are fantastic cars and the sound of V12 is amazing. I have similar in Green colour and mine apparently was a Press car judging from the Vin.
Looking ahead...
If you do get it. Have you found / know an honest shop who knows e38’s / European cars of that vintage? If he starts - get it on a flatbed to the shop. You may have to get it out of the lot to get on a flatbed / proceed carefully. Get the mechanic to look at it before you move it - if possible.
The thought on the plugs and oil isn't to try to un-seize anything, it's more to oil-soak the rings to help make sure they're not stuck. And more importantly that they're not slightly stuck to the cylinder wall where they might be damaged on start. Basically to give the best chance of it running properly and not blowing oil past stuck rings on startup due to having just been parked with no proper storage prep and in an environment with no humidity control.
I get that. The only way I see that working is to have it flatbed delivered to a shop, have them carefully take both wire looms out, remove the plugs - 4 hours labor right there, the back 2 plugs on each bank are a real bear. I have original plugs @ 156k partly due to this. I have no misfire issues, so I am putting off the inevitable. Also getting lubrication in thru that small port means it won’t get to the upper half ( in most cases ). If this was a 740, or old style I6, it’s easy. The M73 is shoehorned in there.
Before you "pay" for it, ask the owner if they are ok with starting her up. As a condition of the sale, make them start it. I know that may sound a bit like a "dick" move all things considered, but if you go in with the position that you want to buy it only if they can show it's running and be up front about that, may cut down on the "risk" to you. Just a thought. It may also mean you need to bring battery or be willing to throw some cables onto her to get the batteries going. If the thing won't start or goes sour, maybe a real cheap deal there for a parts car then.
Tom
Garage - 2000 750iL -- 2007 Z4M -- 2012 35d X5 mod'ed -- E30 M3 red valve cover -- tools -- misc BMW junk
`
If the battery has been dead for sometime
there is a good chance that the nav unit in
the trunk is also dead and will have to be replaced -
Thank-You
D.B.
.
Yeah, but even so, that is a mark II nav - they are obsolete. If the nav is on when the battery dies, it can toast the unit. It should have shut down first.
No contact yet. This may all be for naught!
Common sense probably got the better of him. Unlike one of us who would have had this home in the garage months ago, much to the chagrin of our wives.
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