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Thread: '96 328i turns over but won't start.

  1. #1
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    '96 328i turns over but won't start.

    Hi Guys first time poster, 1996 328i Coupe with 210k km's (~130k miles).

    Had a breakdown about 2 weeks ago which I diagnosed as the fuel pump (wasn't making any noise when ignition was ON-was receiving 12V so electronics good. While diagnosing this issue I tried to start it a lot over a few days, enough to drain the battery, which i then charged), after replacing fuel pump it started up fine, until a couple days ago I noticed when starting it it wouldn't start instantly, rather it would take an extra second or two of crank to start. Didn't notice any issues when driving. I'm not entirely sure if this issue is related or not, but after 3years of problem free driving I have a hunch it is.

    Now it will crank, however won't start. Here's what it sounds like. https://imgur.com/gallery/fDVY20e

    What I've done:
    Charged Battery–currently measures 12.5v (battery is about 4 years old, and I did drain it as mentioned before. Could this be not enough to start it?).
    Checked Fuses and relays –visually checked fuses and swapped fuel pump relays and main relays with horn/rear demister relays.
    Fuel pump primes–makes a noise/vibrates when ignition is ON, so i think it's all good (however was pulled from a scrapyard, so possible it might not be supplying enough pressure).
    Disconnected MAF–no difference

    What I think it could be:
    Fuel Filter Blocked–was replaced about 15000km's/3years ago, however I am guilty of driving it quite low on fuel almost every tank. (this is probably why the pump went, I didn't realise it was such a bad thing until then.) Possibly blocked. I will order one to be replaced anyway. I don't have access to a fuel pressure tester, any other way to rule out fuel as an issue?
    Starter Motor–seeing as i tried to start it so many times maybe i caused unnecessary wear, however as you can hear/see it is turning over still..?
    Cylinders flooded causing loss of compression/no spark (spark plugs replaced about 1y/5000km ago– I've read about this issue but not sure how likely it is, unforunately don't have access to spark plug socket/torque wrench.
    Crankshaft position sensor–seen it mentioned a lot (along with camshaft position sensor causing fuel pump issues w DME, but as I said the fuel pump is priming)
    I also don't have access to a code reader unfortunately

    To be honest I'm hoping the sound is more telling of the issue to you guys, as it does sound a bit different to when it was trying to start without fuel. But anything else I can try before a mechanic?

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Welcome to the forum!

    Well first off, don't buy fuel pumps from the junk yard, that's one item that should be new. Since that one is very old you should really do a full pressure test. Your starter motor sounds fine, but the engine sounds a bit strange when you crank it over. If your car doesn't start in 2-3 tries then you want to figure things out instead of trying again. It is possible to have leaking injectors I've been through this recently, One day while coasting it killed the engine. When you get the car running it would be wise to use fuel injectors cleaner somewhat regularly (3x in the beginning).

    Sucks that you don't have tools or a scanner, your kinda screwed. At least try to get your hands on an OBDII scanner. If your going to keep this car, get an old laptop and the INPA software along with a cable, this will help with troubleshooting.

    https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...xperimentation
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  3. #3
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    Thanks man! Long time lurker! This forum has been SO useful over the years for any small issues.

    Yep, the a new fuel pump wasn't available locally (for a good price), and my car was stuck away from home so I bought it to get it home and confirm it was the issue. I'm also thinking about moving the car on. (These problems literally started the night after having a big think about it, naturally).

    I might ask in a local facebook group if anyone has access to an OBDII scanner. Although how do I know my car is OBDII? It seems like Australian delivered cars weren't all compliant until 2006, whereas in the US it was 1996.
    I'll have a look for how to diagnose leaking injectors!

  4. #4
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    These cars always need work and now they're old so if you don't want to wrench on them yourself you would have to be rich.
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  5. #5
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    Yep, it seems that way. I've done a some smaller things over the years, but always paid when I didn't have the tools/patience necessary eg window regulator, handle, rear wheel bearing.

    If the car doesn't jumpstart would that rule out the battery being too weak?
    Also if spraying starter fluid into air intake gets it started briefly would that signify a fuel supply issue? Where would be best place to spray? https://www.repco.com.au/en/brands/n...50g/p/A8765574
    Also for future, is there a recommended brand for injector cleaner?

  6. #6
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    Alright so i've tried jump starting it and didn't help, so I can rule out the battery.
    I also tested with the fuel pump jumpered (connecting Left Middle (always hot) and bottom middle (To fuel pump) sockets where fuel relay goes) as I read that even if the fuel pump primes when ignition is ON the DME won't send more power unless it knows the car is cranking (i assume the job of the CPS->DME). I could also hear the fuel pumping in the engine bay when it was jumpered.
    Since this made no difference I am inclined to believe that fuel supply is not the issue.
    If fuel isn't the issue, that leaves Spark and Air from what i've read.
    What are the steps to check spark, I do have a multimeter so is there somewhere to check that the coils are receiving the right message to spark?

  7. #7
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    Tomorrow I am going to pull the plugs and check the condition of them as well as check for spark. I don't have access to a torque wrench, how tight should I tighten them when re-installing. Finger tight with extension then 1/2 turn?
    I'm still a bit confused as to how to check for spark. Do I sit the spark plug in the top of the coil, attach a chasis ground to the coil pack and thread of the spark plug and crank? And i should see a spark?

    If there's spark:
    I'll drop 20ml of oil into each cylinder in case fuel has flooded them and they've loss compression.
    I'll get the fuel pressure checked at the fuel rail, take a look at injectors etc.

    If no spark:
    I'm hoping I can get to the plug of the Crankshaft Position Sensor to measure the resistance across pins 1+2 (540ohm is spec).
    If that's all good I will check DME

  8. #8
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    If your sprayed stater fluid and heard it start then it's most likely your CAM sensor. You need to buy the Siemens brand this is sold by BMW, yes its more money but the M52 is very picky when it comes to this sensor. There are some internet retailer that carry the OEM BMW part (Siemens) for less. Don't waste your time on the cheaper brands.
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  9. #9
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    I've read that the CAM sensor shouldn't stop it from starting, however the Crankshaft position Sensor would.

    So I removed the coils, there was a bit of oil on top (none in the chamber), does this mean the valve cover gasket needs replacing? https://imgur.com/gallery/Of6F80s

    I'm using the Spark Plug removal tool from the boot, but I can't for the life of me get them to budge. I've sprayed a penetrant/lubricant down the chamber and hoping that will seep in and loosen them up.
    They were only changed less than a year ago, so I'd say they were well over torqued by the workshop... I don't want to break them so I could be a bit stuck here.

  10. #10
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    I still can't get the spark plugs out, so I gave up on checking spark that way. I reinstalled the coils and tried with WD-40 into the intake (took the MAF off) and no difference, it seems i'm not getting spark.

    I've read I can also test with a screwdriver rather than the spark plug, with the coil plugged in (fuel pump fuse out to avoid flooding chambers), put a screwdriver in the end of the coil and keep the screwdriver near a ground and it should arc, is that correct?
    I've got a pretty strong feeling this is going to be the Crankshaft Position Sensor or the DME. The 3oclock socket in the Fuel pump relay socket doesn't receive a ground which in this video he says is most likely the CPS https://youtu.be/MEaiphvqJVQ?t=1037
    There's also no movement of the tachometer when i crank, which is possibly another sign that it's the CPS. (can't confirm as not sure what's normal.)

    Now to try and find where the CPS plugs in so I can check measure the resistance.

  11. #11
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    Alrighty so I seem to be working through this myself, but I'd love a bit more input from other players, have these forums died down a bit, there's heapsss of support on older threads.

    Although I couldn't pull the plugs, I tested for spark using 1st coil, attaching the ground to the coil with the bolt and engine cover nut, then a jumper lead connected to ground and to a screwdriver, insert the screwdriver into end of coil and cranked and there was spark. Here's some pictures for anyone working through a similar issue. https://imgur.com/gallery/Kt6PvUA I still haven't ruled out the spark plugs being bad (wet from fuel from leaky injectors etc.)

    Seeing as there is spark and the fuel pump fires up when necessary, I'm inclined to think there's no issues with DME or Crank Position Sensor. Is that correct? They're receiving the right messages from the DME?

  12. #12
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    Next step is to test fuel pressure at the rail. There's a Schrader valve at the front. https://imgur.com/gallery/CeBp8J7 Bentley Manual says should be 51psi +/- 0.9 psi, with the fuel pump jumped at the relay sockets.
    Failing that, compression?

  13. #13
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    Just to confirm ruling out the DME/ Crankshaft position Censor, I used a screwdriver as a stethoscope to confirm that the fuel injectors were being told to fire (clicking sound with ear to end of screwdriver.)
    So i'm fairly confident it's not the DME/CPS as i'm getting Spark, Injectors are firing and fuel is being pumped to the rail (possibly not at the right pressure though).

    Excuse the constant posting, I just know how helpful old threads have been for me and thought the process of deduction will be valuable for someone else.

  14. #14
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    Removed and cleaned ICV with Mass Airflow Sensor Cleaner as per this youtube tutorial, and viola, it starts!
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M9OGFoxPJ_U

  15. #15
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    So I just bought my 96 328i and I plan on it being a project car and currently it won't even idle. I've seen many different people say they have had this issue so I was wondering if you can walk me through some stuff. I have already taking the MAS and the IAC valve out and cleaned them and it still cranks but won't stay on unless my foot is on the gas at about half way maybe a bit less.
    Last edited by Izzybubba01; 06-24-2019 at 11:05 PM.

  16. #16
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    Hey Izzy,

    Your problem sounds a bit different to mine, and I'm by no means an expert. But if you've tried cleaning the MAS and ICV, I would try starting it with the ICV disconnected, or maybe even the throttle position sensor disconnected, it could just be a bad sensor. But again i'm not really sure. With the MAF and throttle boot off have you checked the throttle body opens easily, have you tried cleaning that?

  17. #17
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    Izzy, smoke test it for vacuum leaks and clean out your IACV.
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  18. #18
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    Yeah I cleaned it all as I took it apart so it had time to dry. The hose to the IACV had a small crack right at the beginning so I tapped it up with electrical tape for now and am gonna stop and get a another hose sometime soon but it was so small it shouldn't keep it from running even being a vacuum line. Ill try unplugging those and testing it a few times and I'm gonna poke around all the vacuum hoses and see if any came lose or need to be replaced.
    Last edited by Izzybubba01; 06-25-2019 at 12:14 AM.

  19. #19
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    So I got her running and driving, boy is it rough. Still not holding a idle but it's drivible... Ish

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