This has happened a few times now. I use my cruise control often. Lately when I step on the brake instead of turning the cruise off the car starts pulling forward wanting to accelerate. Obviously that is not good. Does anyone know what is going on?
After a search it looks like it might be a switch related to the brake pedal. Does that sound right? How difficult is it to swap them out?
The switch on the brake pedal turns off the cruise control when the pedal is pressed. The turn-off switch cannot make the car accelerate. I see no point in replacing it.
What happens when you turn off the cruise control using the stalk lever? The stalk communicates with a module.
Last edited by Vintage42; 06-14-2019 at 05:34 PM.
BMW MOA 696, BMW CCA 1405
What if the cruise system doesn't know you are pressing the brakes (from a faulty switch) and the brakes slowed the car down, so cruise tries to compensate?
-Abel
- E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
- 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
- 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
- 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
- 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
- 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
- 2016 Mini Cooper S
+2. It’s easy to replace just pull the locking ring out first and it comes out easy
Last edited by z3forlife; 06-14-2019 at 10:17 PM.
Views under the dash:
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post28258131
Instructions:
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...6#post28358366
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...0#post30006910
This DIY has removal of dash panels and switch bracket, not necessary:
https://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tec...eplacement.htm
Last edited by Vintage42; 06-15-2019 at 07:05 AM.
BMW MOA 696, BMW CCA 1405
-Abel
- E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
- 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
- 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
- 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
- 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
- 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
- 2016 Mini Cooper S
Last edited by nevan; 06-15-2019 at 10:23 PM.
2000 Z3 M Titanium Silver / Imola Red+Black Nappa
2011 328i E92 Space Gray Metallic / Leder Dakota+Oyster
Since 1987 12 euros / 2 kdms / 2 jdms
- Zach
It turns off at the switch and the clutch. I thought it should turn off at the brake as well. Is that a mistake?
Just took a look in the garage. Brake lights are not even coming on.
Anyone know where I can find the brake pedal switch part number for a 1999 Z3M roadster?
EDIT: I think the part number is61318360417 but double check before trusting me if reading this thread for your own car.Looks like a fairly easy swap (famous last words lol)
Last edited by Kram71; 06-17-2019 at 04:50 PM.
2000 Z3 M Titanium Silver / Imola Red+Black Nappa
2011 328i E92 Space Gray Metallic / Leder Dakota+Oyster
Since 1987 12 euros / 2 kdms / 2 jdms
- Zach
You saw that here:
https://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tec...ake_Switch.htm
And you really get to crush the switch here:
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...6#post28368906
But if removed correctly, I don't think anything needs to be broken:
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...0#post30006910
Because it is designed to come out easily intact:
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...6#post28358366
This says breaking it out may bend the bracket. That would mess up the alignment and adjustment of both switches on the bracket:
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...5#post25267405
BMW MOA 696, BMW CCA 1405
Once you see how it comes out it will make it easier to install the replacement.
I attempted it today but I'm almost working with 1 hand due to a temporary injury so I will have to try again in a few days. I had to remove the upper panel to get a better view. I was good at sliding the plunger and red cap forward but had trouble getting the switch out. I will wait till my hand heals some more then try again. Other than breaking the switch does anyone have any hints to unsnap it? It may have been in there for 20 years. Plunger does come out so red cap comes loose. The directions on that link say it should fall out but I believe there are retainer tabs holding it in place. Wondering if its possible to pull the plunger all the way out.
Edit now after looking at a picture I see to squeeze the retaining clips in the front not from behind. Ill take another shot at it soon.
Last edited by Kram71; 06-25-2019 at 04:59 PM.
FWIW I dug into my ancient history to find a link describing how I found a way to NOT replace the brake switch. I was using 2015 vintage Pelican Parts instructions and they were very misleading. This thread might be informative and help you avoid some trouble, it contains a lot of good advice (none of it from me :-) )
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ighlight=brake
I got it! If I was working with 2 healthy hands it would have been a little easier. I was not having a problem sliding the plunger and red cap forward but I had problems unsnapping it from the bracket. I grabbed the plunger and cap in a pair of pliers and just started wiggling it gently till I heard a click then it came free. It did not break but even if it did that would not have mattered. Putting the new one in was easy. Works as good as new now.
Thank you to everyone that responded to my questions especially the folks that posted links with pictures.
It probably can be done without removing the upper panel but because the view is so limited it did help me to remove the upper panel. I also noticed I had 2 screws missing from that upper panel. I will have to search them out or maybe Lowes will have a comparable size.
Ace hardware stores usually have a nice selection of odd fasteners in standard and metric
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