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Thread: Blew my Radiator, E21 1982 320i what should I check

  1. #1
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    E-21 1982 BMW 320i USA

    Blew my Radiator, E21 1982 320i what should I check

    Blew my Radiator, E21 1982 320i what should I check ? It blew out at the top seam solder joint. I have a new one coming today. Is there anything that might have caused this, I'm thinking it was just "old age". This has been my daily driver for years. It had been running a little Hot lately. But hard to say for sure because Temp gauge needle jumps around non stop. What is the fix for that? Thanks for your help.......Chris

  2. #2
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    Yes, not enough solder sealing the tank to the core,common problem on metal radiators. Put in new temperature gauge in the water divider and or check the 6.3 mm spade terminal could be the wires are broken or loose spade terminal. Have not heard of bad cluster gauge, remote possibility.

    Randy

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by 320iAman View Post
    Yes, not enough solder sealing the tank to the core,common problem on metal radiators. Put in new temperature gauge in the water divider and or check the 6.3 mm spade terminal could be the wires are broken or loose spade terminal. Have not heard of bad cluster gauge, remote possibility.

    Randy
    Thanks Randy,
    I will likely replace the temp gauge the wiring looks to be OK. Living in the desert is hard on the wiring as the critters love to chew the wires which is a constant problem out here. I have become pretty good at fixing it. Not that I like it. I put the new radiator in today (super easy) Will test it tomorrow.....Chris

  4. #4
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    Should get a new radiator cap too (just in case). It relieves excess coolant pressure. In addition to that, a coolant overflow bottle is ideal for hotter climates.
    Last edited by epmedia; 06-16-2019 at 01:03 AM.
    Tbd

  5. #5
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    Yes new radiator cap, I use Stant 10331*,$7.52/free shipping, I hooked up also an overflow bottle, so excess pressure and vapor coolant / water is sent into the bottle not released to the ground-keeps the radiator filled to the brim, due too double acting valve standard on all radiator caps, also being in the desert,, I'd go 75% water/ 25 % coolant- water is the best coolant, you could also use pure distilled water and a bottle of Redline -water wetter--this would be the coolest running temperature you can get. I have used this and it works well,,just have to change to antifreeze- when the cold arrives.

    *

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Stant-10331...kAAOSwRW9ct6kc

    s-l1600.jpg

    Randy
    Last edited by 320iAman; 06-16-2019 at 09:30 AM.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by 320iAman View Post
    Yes new radiator cap, I use Stant 10331*,$7.52/free shipping, I hooked up also an overflow bottle, so excess pressure and vapor coolant / water is sent into the bottle not released to the ground-keeps the radiator filled to the brim, due too double acting valve standard on all radiator caps, also being in the desert,, I'd go 75% water/ 25 % coolant- water is the best coolant, you could also use pure distilled water and a bottle of Redline -water wetter--this would be the coolest running temperature you can get. I have used this and it works well,,just have to change to antifreeze- when the cold arrives.

    *

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Stant-10331...kAAOSwRW9ct6kc

    s-l1600.jpg

    Randy
    Yes both good suggestions. The radiator caps are cheep, the one on there looks OK but I will replace. My expansion tank gave of the fight about 10 years ago but I know I should replace it since this is the desert. I always felt the radiators on these are a little undersized. The temp will go up when it is just about 2 or 3" below being full.

    I have been using 75% water & 25% coolant for a while. Seems about right. Just enough coolant to not freeze in the winter. This is the Hi Desert here and it does get well below freezing in the winter.

    Took the car for a spin today everything seems good. But still need to fix that jumping needle on the gauge, won't get the new temp sensor for a few days. More work to due.

    I have been thinking of replacing the water pump someday. I am hearing a screeching bearing sound from to to time that I suspect is the water pump. It doesn't leak or wobble but still not a good sign. Still unsure of wear it is coming from.

    Thanks again to ALL for the help.....Chris

  7. #7
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    Don't forget that the coolant also lubricates the water pump and t-stat, heater valves, so don't go too lean with the coolant mix. If your coolant is not super slippery, it's diluted too much!
    Last edited by epmedia; 06-16-2019 at 06:01 PM.
    Tbd

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by epmedia View Post
    Don't forget that the coolant also lubricates the water pump and t-stat, heater valves, so don't go too lean with the coolant mix. If your coolant is not super slippery, it's diluted too much!
    This last drain,flush,refill- drain, refill with 50/50 BMW coolant- I put in a bottle of Bar's water pump/thermostat lubricant for that extra protection,,Gunk makes it too.

    "Antifreeze alone is not enough to protect all of the metal, plastic and rubber parts of the cooling system. Bar's Leaks Cooling System Water Pump Lube with Anti-Rust protects aluminum, copper, iron and all other parts of the cooling system to help prevent the formation of rust and corrosion. The water-soluble oil formula lubricates the thermostat and the water pump seal. This product is compatible with all brands of antifreeze including conventional green or blue (Silicate-based) and extended life red/orange or yellow (OAT/HOAT) coolant."

    7fe.jpg

    Randy
    Last edited by 320iAman; 06-17-2019 at 11:55 AM.

  9. #9
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    Cool

    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Clem View Post
    Yes both good suggestions. The radiator caps are cheep, the one on there looks OK but I will replace. My expansion tank gave of the fight about 10 years ago but I know I should replace it since this is the desert. I always felt the radiators on these are a little undersized. The temp will go up when it is just about 2 or 3" below being full.

    I have been using 75% water & 25% coolant for a while. Seems about right. Just enough coolant to not freeze in the winter. This is the Hi Desert here and it does get well below freezing in the winter.

    Took the car for a spin today everything seems good. But still need to fix that jumping needle on the gauge, won't get the new temp sensor for a few days. More work to due.

    I have been thinking of replacing the water pump someday. I am hearing a screeching bearing sound from to to time that I suspect is the water pump. It doesn't leak or wobble but still not a good sign. Still unsure of wear it is coming from.

    Thanks again to ALL for the help.....Chris
    Rub some bar soap on alternator/water pump belt bottom and sides-squeal could be alternator bearings, water pump or alternator/water pump belt.

    Randy

  10. #10
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    Well ....took it for a longer 1 Mile trip today and it didn't go well. Started to miss fire some and was heating up.l......Yikes..... Back home I took out the plugs and #2 cylinder had water on the plug......Noooo. Didn't see any in the oil. I could see where this was going. So I did a compression test first 2 cylinders were about 85 Lbs the back 2 were 100Lbs but non of them would hold the pressure for more then a split second.

    Now I am trying to talk myself into pulling the head. I pulled the head 12 years ago, (it was cracked) and rebuild it. But I wasn't 68 years old then. Not sure I want to that again.......But I might .....Chris

  11. #11
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    Head Gasket and resurface the Cylinder head- probably better to rebuild it as well.

    Randy

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