86 325e starts but won't keep running

[Tennzguy]

Good pointers, I'll try that next.

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Didn't help restricting fuel flow to increase pressure, noid light shows no activity on injectors.

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[superj]

normally, if you are getting fuel on the cold start and not on the normal injectors, its either the sensors in the bell housing, or the tang is missing from the fly wheel. the cold start injector fires on its own to start the car and than the injectors take over if they get the signal from the sensor that reads that tang.

I kind of fell like the tang is missing. if it is, you will have to pull the trans to either weld a new tang on or replace the flywheel. there are other fixes but generally those are the most common. I pulled it all and welded a new tang on the flywheel on ours because the tang was missing when we got our 86

[Tennzguy]

normally, if you are getting fuel on the cold start and not on the normal injectors, its either the sensors in the bell housing, or the tang is missing from the fly wheel. the cold start injector fires on its own to start the car and than the injectors take over if they get the signal from the sensor that reads that tang.

I kind of fell like the tang is missing. if it is, you will have to pull the trans to either weld a new tang on or replace the flywheel. there are other fixes but generally those are the most common. I pulled it all and welded a new tang on the flywheel on ours because the tang was missing when we got our 86

Looking at pics of flywheels I see two tangs. I'm going to take the cover off soon and examine mine.

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[jbontke]

How do you know the injectors are not firing? Have you used a noid light during cranking to see if the injectors are getting a signal?

[Tennzguy]

How do you know the injectors are not firing? Have you used a noid light during cranking to see if the injectors are getting a signal?

Yes, cold start flashes good, no flash at all from injector

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[superj]

from the cover side, you will be able to rotate the flywheel easier. to actually see the tang, or lack of, you will have to look through the rear most hole where the sensors mount. it will be roughly 1/4"x1/4" little square sticking out to the back of the teeth

here is a pic of what to look for

[img]http://blog.bavauto.com/wp-content/u...f_pin_text.jpg[/img]

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well, that didn't work but you can follow the link

[Tennzguy]

from the cover side, you will be able to rotate the flywheel easier. to actually see the tang, or lack of, you will have to look through the rear most hole where the sensors mount. it will be roughly 1/4"x1/4" little square sticking out to the back of the teeth

here is a pic of what to look for

[img]http://blog.bavauto.com/wp-content/u...f_pin_text.jpg[/img]

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well, that didn't work but you can follow the link

The reference pin in the picture is what I'm looking for?

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[Tennzguy]

The reference pin in the picture is what I'm looking for?

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There's where I'm at. The star stud just above top sensor hole is being tough. I can swing that cover down but I'm going to have to buy some star sockets to get it all the way off. I had my wife turn motor over some more watching through top hole, you can see teeth there. Still didn't see tab. Story is car was running and started ticking so the owner cut it off and it set for fifteen years. Maybe I'll find the tab in the bottom of that cover when I finally get it off!

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[Tennzguy]

There's where I'm at. The star stud just above top sensor hole is being tough. I can swing that cover down but I'm going to have to buy some star sockets to get it all the way off. I had my wife turn motor over some more watching through top hole, you can see teeth there. Still didn't see tab. Story is car was running and started ticking so the owner cut it off and it set for fifteen years. Maybe I'll find the tab in the bottom of that cover when I finally get it off!

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This is the passenger side showing cover swung down as much as possible due to sway bar. If I get that last bolt off the other side there is enough room to totally remove that cover. That's my objective.

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[superj]

it might be sitting in the bottom of the bell housing. that's where they have been found. sometimes they destroy the sensor also but yours didn't look like it was hit, right?

yes, that reference sensor is what you are looking for.

I forgot about how tight it is for those bolts. use a really long extension, a universal socket, and then another long extension so you can turn back farther where there is more room

[Tennzguy]

it might be sitting in the bottom of the bell housing. that's where they have been found. sometimes they destroy the sensor also but yours didn't look like it was hit, right?

yes, that reference sensor is what you are looking for.

I forgot about how tight it is for those bolts. use a really long extension, a universal socket, and then another long extension so you can turn back farther where there is more room

The sensors did not appear to be hit. I've already been using long combinations of sockets and extensions to get those bolts out. 9 mm worked on all but the one.

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[superj]

a 12pt? I don't remember the actual tool size that fits it but the bit is on the wall at the local parts place

[Tennzguy]

I don't see the reference tang. I've slowly rotated the crankshaft while videoing the hole and played it back at quarter speed and do not see anything projecting from the edge of the flywheel. There are a couple of darker places. I lined timing marks up checked, nothing, rotated 360 degrees, nothing. Next I'm going to hold a pencil through the sensor hole lightly touching the flywheel and rotate 360 degrees and see if anything hits it. I think the reference tang is gone! It looks like I could drill and tap and put stud in without removing transmission. If I lined it up right!

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[Tennzguy]

a 12pt? I don't remember the actual tool size that fits it but the bit is on the wall at the local parts place

It's a star socket. I'll get a set soon.

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[superj]

Yes, you can drill and tap through the hole. That is one of the creative ways people have repaired it without pulling the trans. Then they just grind the bolt down with a dremel till it doesnt hit the sensor

[bluptgm3]

Yes, you can drill and tap through the hole. That is one of the creative ways people have repaired it without pulling the trans. Then they just grind the bolt down with a dremel till it doesnt hit the sensor

Is radial position on outer diameter of FW important?


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[Tennzguy]

Is radial position on outer diameter of FW important?


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I think I'll do timing belt at same time to be sure to line up all timing marks before drilling and tapping. That reference pin will have to be in the right spot. When the timing marks are lined up exactly that should be where to drill the flywheel. I'll find out!

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[superj]

You should see where the old one was.

[Tennzguy]

Definitely!

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[Tennzguy]

Checking timing. Why are there two marks on cam sprocket? It clearly lines up on one. When I look through the sensor hole that see the reference tab on the flywheel I see a rusty discolored place on the edge of the flywheel. I've got a scope coming and I'll get a good pic. Timing belt, tensioner, and water pump should be here in day or two. Looking good so far, no oil leaks anywhere.

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[superj]

The cam pulley lines with the slot on the head and the crank pulley with the slot in the block. There should be only one mark.

That rusty mark is where the tab was welded on amd it popped off. Drill and tap that spot.

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The cam pulley lines with the slot on the head and the crank pulley with the slot in the block. There should be only one mark. I think you have the old style cam pulley so the mark is inaide and not on the side of the teeth. Pelican parts has good pics on their site for the marks

That rusty mark is where the tab was welded on amd it popped off. Drill and tap that spot.