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Thread: 86 325e starts but won't keep running

  1. #1
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    1986 325e 1977 280Z

    86 325e starts but won't keep running

    I'm bringing one back to life after fifteen years. I installed a new fuel pump/filter, old one froze. I've got it starting consistently but it only runs for a second or two. It will start twice then you have to let it rest for a few minutes and it will start twice again. Has anyone else had a similar problem? Thanks for the help!

  2. #2
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    99 M3

    86 325e starts but won't keep running

    Subscribed, we have a similar issue.
    Starts, runs, idles, then when warm it dies.


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  3. #3
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    No e30s, again :(
    tennzguy, the sensors in the transmission bell housing (driver's side) are good? yours fires so one is good but I would check them both to see if they read good. and since it only starts than dies, I would check to see if your fuel injectors are spraying. its starting because the one on the passenger side of the intake manifold, the cold start injector, is firing. its not staying running because the others are not spraying which could be from the sensors in the bell housing.
    No e30s again.

  4. #4
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    I had the same issue from a car that sat for a year. It was stuck fuel injectors from old gas. I pulled the injectors, cleaned them, and reinstalled and was greeted with a steady idle. Pinch the fuel return line and see if that keeps it running. I spiked my fuel pressure over 100 psi to keep it running.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tennzguy View Post
    I'm bringing one back to life after fifteen years. I installed a new fuel pump/filter, old one froze. I've got it starting consistently but it only runs for a second or two. It will start twice then you have to let it rest for a few minutes and it will start twice again. Has anyone else had a similar problem? Thanks for the help!
    Update, boot cracked between afm and throttle, dirty contact on afm, see pics. I'll fix them and see how it does!

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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by jbontke View Post
    I had the same issue from a car that sat for a year. It was stuck fuel injectors from old gas. I pulled the injectors, cleaned them, and reinstalled and was greeted with a steady idle. Pinch the fuel return line and see if that keeps it running. I spiked my fuel pressure over 100 psi to keep it running.
    Good pointers, I'll try that next.

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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by superj View Post
    tennzguy, the sensors in the transmission bell housing (driver's side) are good? yours fires so one is good but I would check them both to see if they read good. and since it only starts than dies, I would check to see if your fuel injectors are spraying. its starting because the one on the passenger side of the intake manifold, the cold start injector, is firing. its not staying running because the others are not spraying which could be from the sensors in the bell housing.
    I'll check them. Thanks for info!

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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tennzguy View Post
    I'll check them. Thanks for info!

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    I took the lower sensor loose and tested pins where it plugs in, I get infinite resistance no matter which pics I test. I'm reading it should be between 500 to 600 between two of the pins. Looks like a bad sensor to me! I'll test the other next, it should test good because I have good spark. That should further prove if the one is bad.

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  9. #9
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    No e30s, again :(
    Sounds like a plan
    No e30s again.

  10. #10
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    Part number wise, they are the same sensor.


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  11. #11
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    No e30s, again :(
    you can find them on rockauto and some other sites for decent prices, also
    No e30s again.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by superj View Post
    you can find them on rockauto and some other sites for decent prices, also
    I'm looking around now. The top sensor tests okay, the bottom doesn't. The bottom one plugged into the rear plug. Does anyone know if the bottom one is for fuel? I haven't quite mastered all the resources for this car yet and appreciate all the help I can get!

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    Last edited by Tennzguy; 06-17-2019 at 09:37 AM.

  13. #13
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    No e30s, again :(
    I cannot remember which is which but I know one of the holes in the bell housing has an A and one has a B which goes to one of the wires but since I am at work and cannot remember which, I hope someone else comes along to answer. the Bentley manual tells which one goes to which hole.

    one wire tells the ecu when the engine is at tdc so the ignition works properly and the other tells the ecu something about spraying the fuel. look in the hole in the bellhousing that the bad sensor sits in and have someone crank the engine over. you need to look for the little tang that the sensor reads. its just a piece of metal sticking off the flywheel. if its missing than your new sensor won't help. its really common for that tang to come off.
    my 86 was missing it. I ended up pulling the flywheel and tack welding a replacement on. some people drill and tap the spot and then thread a bolt in which they grind down to the right length but I didn't have a tap set so the ol welder came out
    No e30s again.

  14. #14
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    Good comments, thanks for the info about the tang. I will definitely check it.

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  15. #15
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    No e30s, again :(
    the e motors spray fuel differently than the I motors. the I motors spray 3 injectors at a time and the e sprays all 6, if I remember right. its odd because even though the e opens them all at the same time, it gets amazing as mileage for being put into use in the very early 80s.
    No e30s again.

  16. #16
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    The E models has a cold start injector on the end of the intake used for cold starts. I think they are DME 1.0 and 1.1, while the I models uses DME 1.3 and it should spray all 6 injectors (correct me if I am wrong) because the DME fires the injectors in batch (two sets of three injectors) not sequential.

  17. #17
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    No fire to injectors, I just put new crank angle sensor on and it made no difference. The car will start off the cold start injector but not keep running. I've fixed vacuum leaks and cleaned electrical connections. Any help is much appreciated. I don't have money right now for Bentley manual.

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  18. #18
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    No e30s, again :(
    That other sensor? Did you get it replaced
    No e30s again.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by superj View Post
    That other sensor? Did you get it replaced
    No, could barely afford the one. The other tested okay per the test I found.

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  20. #20
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    No e30s, again :(
    Oh, swap them and see if it changes anything.

    Was the tang on the flywheel?
    No e30s again.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by superj View Post
    Oh, swap them and see if it changes anything.

    Was the tang on the flywheel?
    Didn't check, I'll get wife out after awhile. Definite no fire on injectors. Cold start working fine. I tested yesterday with noid light.

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  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by superj View Post
    Oh, swap them and see if it changes anything.

    Was the tang on the flywheel?
    Motor turns over too fast to spot it. Turn with wrench on crankshaft?

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  23. #23
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    No e30s, again :(
    Its probably not there if you didnt see it. If its an auto you can pull the cover off the bottom of the bellhousing and look more easily. If its a stick, the cover from the front of the bell housing bottom comes off. Its connected to engine and trans
    No e30s again.

  24. #24
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    No e30s, again :(
    Lets you use a screw driver on the flywheel teeth as a lever to turn slowly
    No e30s again.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by superj View Post
    Its probably not there if you didnt see it. If its an auto you can pull the cover off the bottom of the bellhousing and look more easily. If its a stick, the cover from the front of the bell housing bottom comes off. Its connected to engine and trans
    It's a manual transmission. I see the cover with four bolts going up and six or so hex head bolts going back. It looks like I have to remove hex bolts too? I'm off tomorrow so I'll tackle it then and report back. Thanks!

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