'96 Vert resurrection continues

[Mr. Bill]

Well, so far we got the car running, a fresh set of tires and it passed inspection! Got the registration today so we're street legal.

The issue is, this thing rides like a Buick! Soft and mushy.

No doubt it's due for some new shocks and struts as well as control arms and bushings.

I'm going to do the work myself because after all I've spent to get it to this point, it's time to save some dough. Plus, I enjoy the satisfaction of completing a challenge.

I'm hoping to get some input on which way I should go for parts. This car is going to be a weekend fun car so less than 3-4K a year. I won't be tracking it or doing any aggressive driving. I'm just looking for the original ride quality. Since I'm saving on the labor, I don't mind ponying up for a good part that will give me what I want. But who doesn't like to save a few bucks if there are some good alternatives?

Here are my questions:
1. Are any of the low prices struts/shocks worth having? FCS, Sen Sen etc
2. If not what is a good OEM ride replacement (I've heard KYB are a little stiff) (I put Monroe's on my 740 years back and was happy)
3. Since it's 23 years old, should I replace the strut/shock mounts?
4. I know the control arm bushings are shot. Thinking about replacing the whole front end. Are there ary lower priced options that will give me what I'm looking for?

Random question: I'm thinking about buying an impact gun. How powerful do I need. In all my years of DIY, I've never encountered anything a good 2' breaker bar couldn't handle. But I like the idea and convenience of speed it provides.

Thanks in advance!

[FiberFast]

Well, so far we got the car running, a fresh set of tires and it passed inspection! Got the registration today so we're street legal.

The issue is, this thing rides like a Buick! Soft and mushy.

No doubt it's due for some new shocks and struts as well as control arms and bushings.

I'm going to do the work myself because after all I've spent to get it to this point, it's time to save some dough. Plus, I enjoy the satisfaction of completing a challenge.

I'm hoping to get some input on which way I should go for parts. This car is going to be a weekend fun car so less than 3-4K a year. I won't be tracking it or doing any aggressive driving. I'm just looking for the original ride quality. Since I'm saving on the labor, I don't mind ponying up for a good part that will give me what I want. But who doesn't like to save a few bucks if there are some good alternatives?

Here are my questions:
1. Are any of the low prices struts/shocks worth having? FCS, Sen Sen etc
2. If not what is a good OEM ride replacement (I've heard KYB are a little stiff) (I put Monroe's on my 740 years back and was happy)
3. Since it's 23 years old, should I replace the strut/shock mounts?
4. I know the control arm bushings are shot. Thinking about replacing the whole front end. Are there ary lower priced options that will give me what I'm looking for?

Random question: I'm thinking about buying an impact gun. How powerful do I need. In all my years of DIY, I've never encountered anything a good 2' breaker bar couldn't handle. But I like the idea and convenience of speed it provides.

Thanks in advance!

Sounds like we have similar goals and constraints. Given time you can slowly turn the car into a monster. I absolutely agree on the bushings, bushings should be the very first "Mod" you should do to these cars as they are old and decrepit. I heard everyone say these cars handle great and mine was "OK" but not what I would consider brag worthy. Then I got a ride in an E36 with new bushings and the difference was astounding.
I would replace the bushings with urethane variants where possible, upgrade the front control arms to Mehyl Heavy Duty units. Replace the rear strut mount with a urethane or pillow ball mounts. The rear trailing arm bushing should be replaced with a solid delrin bushing imo, there is no reason for the trailing arm to move in any direction other that the pivot around its bolt. Why bmw designed it like that is a complete fucking mystery to me. For budget struts I would recommend Koni Str.t units. They are about $400 for a set. You could run those with an eibach spring and swaybar set for $600 and this is a very good street setup for Roughly $1200 after adjustable end links ect. Its not free but you are getting your moneys worth. If you are wondering how far you can stretch your buck, that's about as far as you can stretch it and still receive quality parts.
I would also frequent craigslist, use realoem.com for parts reference and diagrams and check out rockauto.com and ecs.com which have both proved to be descent vendors.

[Mr. Bill]

Thank you!

[bluptgm3]

KYB, Monroe, or Sachs all offer OE (30K mile) Struts and shocks.

Front Strut Mounts or Guide Supports (BMW term) are probably good, but grease them.
You should add the E36 M3 Strut Tower Reinforcement Plates.

I generally steer clear of URO, Meyle, and other low end components, however the
Meyle HD FLCAs were a good recommendation, (above) as these eliminate the rubber isolated outer ball joint in the FLCA.
Use Lemforder rubber bushings, you can use the 1996+M3 Forward Lower Control Arm Bushings for a little less ‘play’ in the front end.
Or use the 1995M3 offset FLCABs for some added caster.

Rear Shock Mounts, I recommend E46M3 Convertible RSMs. I have seen a RSM call a “Lifetime Repair Shop RSM” that might be worth a look.

Get Bump Stops and Dust Shields for both the Struts and Shocks, as required - some rear shocks come with metal covers.

Rear Trailing Arm Bushings are probably done, however I would steer clear of solid RTABs - Poly, Deleon, etc., etc - as the Rear Trailing Arm pivots about more than one axis, the reason BMW uses a rubber bushing.
Dinan offers a nice Mono-ball joint.

Don’t forget the paper Body Gaskets, front and rear.

Learn to use www.realoem.com, incorporating the last seven of your VIN to find applicable parts lists for your car.
You can use it to look at applicable E36M3 FLCABs/STRPs and E46M3 Convertible RSMs.



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[bobbylx]

I am in a similar situation. I have a 95 that is just our little weekend fun toy. No racing or anything overly aggressive. I also had the bouncy ride. I picked up this set of shocks and struts from Amazon for $128. I installed them myself the weekend after they arrived. So far we put a few hundred miles on the car and it rides like a dream. I’m sure there are better and slightly more expensive options, but I’m doing this all on a budget.
To compress the springs for the front, I have a cheap set of spring compressors and used my craftsman 20 V impact wrench. Impact isn’t necessary but compressing springs and other jobs like that it is very nice to have.


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[Mr. Bill]

Thank you Bobbylx! Sounds like we are on the same page.

About how many miles do you have on these?

[thenjnick]

I got some cheap sensen front struts and I havent had a single problem with them yet after almost 1000 miles. Not sure of the performance compared to the more expensive brands but I can tell you the difference is night and day after riding on blown out OE sachs struts for 2 years.


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[QUiKSR20]

FCP Euro + Real OEM will be your friend, Ive been on the same path rehabbing my 95 Vert. They guarantee everypart for life.. Go slow, Only use quality parts and enjoy the ride.
I went with Koni STR.T Struts ( for stock / mild drop springs ) and it rides flawless. Def replace everything that comes with a strut install IE: Strut Mounts / Dust Boots ( will be cracked ) / Bump Stops / Rubber Spring Perches etc etc.
On Real.oem you can pick every single part# out and put it in the search box on FCP and most are cheap. I replaced nuts / bolts that were beat up as well as the clips that hold the brake lines.. Most of the parts are only a few bucks.