Basically my head gasket blew (or head cracked) and I am replacing the head and gasket with the engine in the car. The thing I am worried about, is getting the head off with some of the ARPs still in. In past experience some of the studs don't want to come out of an iron block, without a lot of persuasion. Can the head come off and clear the bulkhead without pulling the studs out? I know it will clear the strut tower, I am more worried about the part of the bulkhead that juts forward.
I am also asking because I am doing a CES cut-ring install, and I would like to have two studs in when the head goes back on, so I can be more confident that the head is going on straight.
The studs should remain in the block.
Take off the nuts, and voila, lift the head off the deck.
After taking the timing chain and VANOS stuff off of course.
Might want to take off the wiring harness tray/blower duct at the bulkhead for maximum clearance.
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Last edited by SilburE36; 06-11-2019 at 05:35 PM.
Definitely remove harness, tray, cowl, put hood in service position for maximum clearance if removing and installing with studs in place.
I always remove the studs when I’m going to pull the head off. You need to properly clean the top of the block and make sure the head stud hole are clean and it makes it way easier to install especially when you are installing it alone.
So I did a cutring install on my M50B25TU a couple of months ago. I was unable to install the new head with the 2 studs pre-installed into the block as you can see from my youtube video below. I ended up having to remove the two guide studs and just carefully lower the head down trying not to disturb the cutrings. For memory I couldn't get the head back far enough with all the wiring harness etc in the way to slide over the studs.
I assume you won't be able to remove the head without getting all the studs out either based on this....
https://youtu.be/OrmohKn-1HE
If it won’t work but if you feel guided would be useful, you could try a couple of used head bolts. Cut off the head plus maybe half the length, slot the top for a screwdriver, and use them as guides for laying down the head. Then unscrew them and use a thin magnet to pull them out so you can swap in studs. I do something like this when installing transmissions.
Last edited by pbonsalb; 06-13-2019 at 06:23 AM.
I installed my head over two guide studs installed in the locating dowel locations, without removing the harness tray. I used an engine hoist to tilt the head backwards and maneuver into position. I don't know if I could have done it that way with all the studs in place, it was tricky with just two. I think I would have ruptured a spinal disc doing any of this without a lifting device of some kind.
Why would you want to make the job harder than you have to?
The studs if installed correctly (finger tighter, and lightly lubed threads), it should come right out with an allen key.
Plus this is a great time to measure the studs, and make sure they haven't over stretched and are in spec, and to thoroughly clean the threads in the block, studs, and nuts.
Last edited by Hova; 06-13-2019 at 05:58 PM.
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