Member
So I got myself a 89 535i a few months back, there was minor vibration in the rear right wheel area around the 35mph mark when under acceleration but it didn't bother me much. A little while back, after some power breaking for launching, the vibrations suddenly started happening around the 0-10mph mark too. Vibration is a up and down kinda thing, rattles the entire car and when it gets intense I can feel it sorta "travel" towards the rear left as well. Some days its not bad, if I'm careful not to cause the vibrations (by accelerating hard) they'll stay mild. If I accelerate a bit too hard just once though, the intensity of the vibration increases and stays the same for the rest of the day. It is weird, and I don't know whats going on. I got front suspension repaired awhile back and had all the wheels balanced along with that, also switched the two rear wheels around to see if it was the specific wheel causing the issue.....it wasn't. So the issue doesn't have anything to do with the wheels themselves from what I can tell. Also was told to jack the car up and wiggle the wheel around to see if it was a bad bearing but there was zero play. Have the tools to fix it, just not the money to pay someone to tell me whats wrong.
Last edited by SyrupSplashin; 06-11-2019 at 02:43 PM.
Member
Bearings are going to make noise, not a lot of vibration. If confined to one side I'd suggest a failed CV axle.
The drive shaft center bearing support or flex disc can cause vibrations but these are typically felt in the trans tunnel area.
Could also be differential issues but these are pretty stout units unless run out of oil.
Suggest you quit beating on it until repaired.
I happen to have a pair of axles for your car if that's what it turns out to be.
Last edited by ross1; 06-11-2019 at 03:09 PM.
If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue
Member
How would one diagnose a failing rear CV axle? Any easy means to do so outside of removal and examination?Originally Posted by ross1
Member
have you at least tried to grab the axle and shake it in various directions, or do we have to do that for you? Because I'm busy just now, and you're 5,000 miles away.
Charlie
Your mission, should you decide to accept it, is to add value to these threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same or similar problem stands on your shoulders.
Member
I assume if there's play when attempting to wiggle, it's busted? I threw laymen in the title for a reason thought, I have no idea how to tell the difference between a busted and properly working axle.
MORΩN ΛABIA
BMW CCA Member
A BMW CV joint in good shape will have zero play detectable by hand, and smooth pivoting in a full circle. Slop or notchiness indicates a worn joint. IME (In my experience) they can only be diagnosed without disassembly if they're really bad. Disassembly isn't difficult: six 8mm Allen bolts at each end of the axle and they just drop out. They can sometimes be removed together with the diff output flange, which just pops out of the diff with a prybar. The only trick is to clean any crud out of the Allen bolt heads and make sure your key/socket is hammered all the way in, for the bolts are torqued down hard and prone to rounding out.
If it comes to bad joints, see here.
Last edited by moroza; 06-12-2019 at 01:25 AM.
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