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Thread: 04 330i, Crazy Crank No start issue

  1. #51
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    Yes the sensor end is the same my bad if I read that wrong. I'm wondering how the cams could get 30° off. I didn't do any major work at all after I bought the car before all this happened.

    I'm going to start the car and record a video of how it reacts and see if you can tell me what might be causing this. I can move it back and forth slowly down my drive way so transmission seems fine.

    I know timing is essential but maybe both being 30° off isnt timing the air and injection correctly and when I let the air in it is just getting air supplied 100% and it eventually starts up.

    Anything I should check in INPA to see if anything is abnormal? I can check stuff with the car running if that'll give you more information to see what could be a potential problem.

  2. #52
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    Transmission has nothing to do with that issue. There seems to be a contradiction between the fact that your cams have not physically moved, which would point at a sensor/software issue, and the fact that when you apply a physical solution by removing the injectors rail, therefore providing air, the car starts.
    The timing could have jumped if the chain tensioner is on its last legs, but there would most likely have been signs of that (noise...) before the timing jumped.
    You can use INPA to compare actual/target cams' initial positions, and record some live data (with the rail out/engine started) while you're at it to see how the cams behave dynamically. All those infos are under the same page anyway. Go to E46>status(F5) and look for abovementioned page there.
    Last edited by Breeze1; 06-19-2019 at 02:46 PM.

  3. #53
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    I'll get the INPA information rn and record it all. I only mentioned the transmission just to rule out any other questions that anyone might ask about it.

    The car ran fine before it stopped, no rough sounds no rattling. Once I pull the rail and let the car go it idles around 650-700 rpm and it sounds great no rattle, knocking or tapping so I'm guessing tensioner or anything mechanical is not wrong.

    I'm starting to lean to a software issue but after I get the inpa information and we look at all the info gathered itll be telling. I'm going to also do a thorough check on all the wiring and make sure there is no cuts or oil In any connectors.

  4. #54
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    Okay here is all the INPA information that i gathered. I noticed while running and not running the cam positions under the Vanos tab doesn't move at all. It is the exact same degree when not running and running.

    The Screenshots are when the car isn't running and the key just in position 2. The Video is when its running, I went through all the tabs on the engine status (F5) page.

    https://drive.google.com/open?id=12y...p8is2IWSEOFo5S

    Do you see anything that's alarming? Anything else I should record and gather on just say it and ill get anything you need.

    I also included the information on my DME such as version and other info it gave me. Does this look up to date or good?
    Last edited by KryptonitCentra; 06-19-2019 at 04:21 PM.

  5. #55
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    You have the German version so I will only speak about what we're interested in, namely the Vanos adaption values and let German speakers weigh in about the rest if they see anything abnormal. At 1:14 in the vid or screenshot 47, you can see that the "referenz" (target) values are the same as the ones indicated below so all seems to be normal BUT: I've never seen that red color on my INPA, and I think you should see the actual values move at least by a few decimals, which apparently they don't. Again, the pros or those who work with INPA on more than one vehicle could confirm that, but I think INPA is not getting any readings from the sensors. A way of verifying that would be to run INPA on that same page and blip the throttle, see if anything changes.

    How about those wires? Could you try swapping the sensors around, just for the sake of it? I know it shouldn't be possible because of the wires' length but at this point and if it's confirmed that INPA is not getting data, IMO it can only be one of three things: sensors (which have been changed several times so...), wiring or DME.

  6. #56
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    I could swap sensors but there is no way to plug in the Intake sensor since the plug is the Male end and I have to plug it into the wiring harness box.

    I never knew there was an English version of INPA, I've always had the German version lol. During this time I've gone through the entire wiring going to both the sensors to the wiring distribution box and they were spotless no oil no cracks.

    I had been looking into the DME and to swap it with a known good module I'd need the EWS and ignition module which Is a bit of work. I just don't want to swap these out of a running car to find out the car still doesnt start.

    Any options left to try before the last resort is dme swap?

  7. #57
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    I get you about the wires... Could you try blipping the throttle while running INPA on that page, see if the values change?
    There are options for DME swaps without having to deal with the EWS stuff, if you - hopefully not - have to.

    I hope dworthy or one of the other members can identify something I missed but at this point I have to say I'm running out of ideas... maybe check the connection to the DME, recheck every connection point between the sensors and the DME, clear adaptions (F7 on errors page), check all engine grounds (the 2 ground straps that attach to the ignition coils), the large wire that goes behind the front bumper's right side and the one in the trunk next to the battery...

  8. #58
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    Here is another one but it's just a wild guess because as someone stated here it shouldn't be possible theoretically speaking: what if the CPS is bad but in such a way that it doesn't prevent the engine from starting up (although you still have to pull the rail out for it to happen) but misleads both camshaft sensors? I'm thinking about this because the camshaft sensors work relative to the CPS's position, at least in the DME's logic (please correct me if I'm wrong), and according to the readingss you got with that other software your cams are off centered in a symetrical fashion (30° on each side)...

  9. #59
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    I'll check all the grounds. Removing the DME is Super easy it's just everything else that seems annoying with it lol. I've never heard of a way to swap DMEs without the EWS but if it's easier I'm not complaining.

    I know the values change between the throttle position sensors but I can record it moving the value when running. When the car is running the throttle is very sluggish like it barely moves the car when I'm at 75% throttle at 800rpm. It's the engine not raising rpm but once I'm in neutral I can go to like 2500rpm pretty nicely, I record it in inpa.

    -

    I've swapped Crank Position Sensors twice but they were from my parts cars so maybe the one I have in is faulty. The codes never showed up when the car was running fine before so maybe this sensor was there reason of junking the car in the first place. I'm out of ideas after trying the other suggestions above this edit, so maybe I'll swap in another CPS from my other running junk car.( I didit pull the running engines CPS cause it's a pain in the a** to pull it since the car got hit on front driver side)
    Last edited by KryptonitCentra; 06-19-2019 at 07:34 PM.

  10. #60
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    +1

    It will show you actual and targeted values. It is a good way to see if the VANOS is bad as well.

    On that note, I would also do is erase the adaption values as well.
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  11. #61
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    Been a few days and I have swapped the Crank Sensor, Throttle Body, Idle Air Control Valve, and the fuel rail out of a running damaged car and it all acts the same. Starts if i pull the rail, and the same as usual smokes like crazy and smells like something burning. Still giving me P0011, and P0014 codes so still at a loss there.

    @Breeze1 Here is the INPA video you asked for when I touch the throttle and move it about. At 1:00-1"30 in the video i'm moving the pedal and having the RPM at about 1600-2500 just to give some other information.

    https://drive.google.com/open?id=1KO...grP0cacNiVaXIX

    I also noticed the Cylinder advancement Percentage was all over the place at 0:30-0:40 seconds in the video, does that look normal when running?

    And as usual none of the Vanos percentages changed. They are the exact same when running and not running. At 2:19 in the video is when I also raise the RPM and drop it, the Vanos percentages never move.

    Im thinking Vanos is stuck or the Engine Computer is just turned to garbage. Anyone got anything else to try? Also if you need more information i'm glad to get it.

  12. #62
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    Thanks for the vid.

    We keep going back to the cams. According to the codes and what info is available on the Net, you could be having this issue:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-yBt92c7qk0

    Solenoids stuck, probably because of oil sludge. You can try the fix the guy describes, but with a little "twist": use some engine oil flush additive before replacing/cleaning the solenoids, to clean the engine before changing the oil. If I were you I'd also use it a little more aggressively than advertised: if the additive says for e.g. to run the car at idle for 15min, rev it to 1500rpm or so for 30 secs/ a minute 2 or 3 times during those 15min.
    "If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity, nothing else matters." Alan K. Simpson.
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  13. #63
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    Okay I'll try an oil additive. My concern is if it only starts with the rail out would that cause any long term damage having the car running for minutes like that?

    What I'm getting out of these codes is maybe the camshaft is moving properly. Could that cause improper timing and prevent my no start unless pulling the rail?

    Also the car running has since been smoking like a chimney and smells absolutely terrible like burning almost. I thought it was oil burning but there is no blue and no coolant loss, thoughts? Clogged exhaust?

  14. #64
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    If the cams values don't move under INPA although you push the throttle as you did, it means the cams are stuck. The error codes you're getting are consistent with that, and according to that guy's vid, the solenoids are likely to be the cause, due to oil sludge.
    About leaving the engine running 15min without the rail I honestly can't tell, but IMO there isn't that much of a risk because you're sort of balancing out the air shortage and it'll mostly be idling anyway.
    You could take the solenoids out first and check for any obvious sludge and see if they are stuck, following the vid's instructions. Putting in engine oil flush would have been a complementary measure to try and clear oil conducts (including the solenoids') and get the cams moving again.
    Tell you what: start with the solenoids and if by cleaning them things get significantly better, then you can put the engine flush in and change the oil after that. Please bare in mind that when using the engine flush additive, as the name suggests, you need to flush the old oil immediately after performing the procedure and replace the oil filter (that last one should be done with each oil change, but even more when using the additive as sludge might gather in it).

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