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Thread: 04 330i, Crazy Crank No start issue

  1. #26
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    Here is pictures of the intake off. I included under the intake also and pictures of the valves. Anything look abnormal or installed wrong on the intake? Anything I should check while its out again? Also there is videos going in depth on everything.

    https://drive.google.com/folderview?...DFVeh-yJZOJf3_

  2. #27
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    Two thoughts;
    First, you shot yourself in the foot by making a lot of changes BEFORE diagnosing the no start. Now there are many other things possibly on top of the original fault which apparently remains.
    Second, in one of your posts(I've not read the entire thread) you mention it seems not to be getting air. Does your car have an ASC throttle? Is it connected incorrectly and/or stuck closed?

    If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

  3. #28
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    Yea I probably jumped the gun on doing all the maintenance before Diagnosing the no start. But it really needed it, both boots were torn the car was running pretty crappy before, then it just stopped which is why I decided to do all this work. I've done 3 other BMW CCV replacement s and general maintenance so I was pretty confident on what I was doing and knowing where everything goes.

    ASC throttle? I know is the electronic actuated throttle and it does open when cranking.

  4. #29
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    That is normal fuel pressure, so next would I would think about the spray pattern.

    I wonder if the injectors are cycling too long, thus getting extra fuel.

    Do you know how old the fuel filter is? Normally when you replace a fuel pump, you should also replace it too.

    Just spit balling here, throwing out ideas for you to chew on.
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  5. #30
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    I'm out of ideas ive been at this issue for a month. But the fuel filter is probably original, now that you mention it there does seem to be a puddle of liquid sometimes in cylinders 4 and 2. Its gas cause it has a strong smell and not any coolant looking so that's good.

    I have another fuel rail and injectors I could try if these could be letting too much gas in, but the originals never leak since I've had the rail out multiple times and never seen a single drop after cranking.

    Should I swap rails and injectors? Cause I dont have an extra fuel filter rn

  6. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by KryptonitCentra View Post
    I'm out of ideas ive been at this issue for a month. But the fuel filter is probably original, now that you mention it there does seem to be a puddle of liquid sometimes in cylinders 4 and 2. Its gas cause it has a strong smell and not any coolant looking so that's good.

    I have another fuel rail and injectors I could try if these could be letting too much gas in, but the originals never leak since I've had the rail out multiple times and never seen a single drop after cranking.

    Should I swap rails and injectors? Cause I dont have an extra fuel filter rn
    The puddles of gas could be caused by clogged injectors, not necessarily leaking ones. If the fuel filter has never been changed it's a must, especially given that the car seems to have had a poor maintenance.
    "If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity, nothing else matters." Alan K. Simpson.
    5spd E46 "3XX": 328i engine, 330i Intake and exhaust, CAI, 323i diff.

  7. #32
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    I'll order a fuel filter tonight, I didn't order one earlier when I bought a fuel pump cause the fuel pressure was perfect. If it is giving too much fuel how would the filter be an issue other than the fuel pressure regulator being built in.

    I also have had the injectors out and none were clogged and all spray great when cranking. If it was the filter wouldnt there be a fuel restriction? It wouldnt cause too much gas to be given like what could be happening right? Since once I add more air it evens out the too much gas being given and runs.

  8. #33
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    I get your point about the fuel pressure/filter thing. I went back through your previous posts and it seems that the issue lies somewhere in the vacuum/air system and that the car is choking, possibly because of the ccv system:

    https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/m...ryptonitCentra.

    I'm a bit out of ideas at this point, but how about swapping in the old ccv system, in case the new one is faulty? Maybe also look for the little things easily overlooked such as "safety/dust plugs" which could prevent air from flowing.
    Last edited by Breeze1; 06-17-2019 at 01:47 PM.

  9. #34
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    I junked the old CCV cause it was original and full of thick mayo, most of the hoses were filled with the gunk. Is there any way to bypass the CCV just to see if the car starts without it? I've heard of a CCV delete but I'm never too keen on deleting stuff that BMW put in there for a reason lol.

    Safety/dust plugs? I'm not sure where to look for those or what they are lol.

  10. #35
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    Yes there are several ccv delete procedures, some with oil catch tank and some without and easy to perform. You could try it just to rule out the ccv system (just look it up on youtube, there are plenty of them).

    I used the word "plug" for lack of better words, what I meant is that when you buy parts new some come with little rubber protective plugs aimed at protecting the part from dust/dirt and they need to be removed before installation of the part.

  11. #36
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    Ah that makes sense on the "plug" situation. I'll look on everything I've replaced too see if I forgot anything. I'll see online for a CCV delete to see what happens.

    Give me some time to put the intake back together and see on a CCV delete option.

    Thank you @breeze1 for the suggestions

  12. #37
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    Don't mention it. Since you have to put the intake back in, take your time and make sure all the vacuum hoses and whatnot are where they should be.

  13. #38
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    I don't think the CCV is the issue here, for it's main purpose is to pull gasses from the crankcase. Does the DME take into consideration the air from there? Yes, but it is only pulling 4-6 inches of mercury, which isn't much.

    Again I am wonder if something else is blocked inside the intake, that is causing it to choke out.
    Darin
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  14. #39
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    I've had the intake out twice and nothing is blocked inside. I haven't tried starting yet after just putting the intake back together last night but I've went through it thoroughly and there is no blockages.

  15. #40
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    Has this thing got an ASC throttle body?
    Is it open as it should be?

    If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

  16. #41
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    No ASC throttle body. Its electronic no cable. Yes it does open as it should. I've got a video of it moving when cranking to show that it let's in air.

  17. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by KryptonitCentra View Post
    No ASC throttle body. Its electronic no cable. Yes it does open as it should. I've got a video of it moving when cranking to show that it let's in air.
    I think what ross1 refered to here, is a secondary throttle body that is controlled by the ASC system to prevent the car from losing grip, by actually closing the throttle even when the primary TB is open. I'm not familiar enough with the car to tell, but what is a given is that E46's do have ASC's. Either through a secondary TB or more likely by forcibly closing the primary one if an "ASC" sensor detects tire slippage. Again, I'm not familiar enough, but I'm thinking if the sensors are faulty/shorted they could create an issue. I'll let the pros weigh in on that.
    Last edited by Breeze1; 06-18-2019 at 12:56 PM.
    "If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity, nothing else matters." Alan K. Simpson.
    5spd E46 "3XX": 328i engine, 330i Intake and exhaust, CAI, 323i diff.

  18. #43
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    I'm pretty sure My M54B30 doesnt have ASC throttle but I could be wrong. I've tore into this whole engine and haven't seen that.

    Also I pulled the rail again after the intake reinstall to startup the car and here is screenshots with my OBD2 scanner. The fuel trims were massively negative both banks -25% which would make sense on why I need more air to balance out the EXTRA fuel being dumped in. The injectors aren't leaking so idk why the fuel is being dumped in some how.

    Anyone got any idea why its soo negative and that there is no long term fuel trim? I also included a video of the car running so you guys can see what it sounds and looks like when running. Also there is some smoke coming out the oil cap and exhaust when the car is turned off.

    https://drive.google.com/folderview?...jij719fdTcsbF8

    Anyone have an idea, Maybe the DME is at fault? Possibly a Software update could reset the Module and fix any issue it could have?
    Last edited by KryptonitCentra; 06-18-2019 at 07:31 PM.

  19. #44
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    Also the only codes that just started popping up are P0011, and P0014.

    I've never messed with the timing, I've changed the exhaust and intake camshaft position sensors multiple times and I've cleaned the intake vanks solenoid(could never take off the exhaust solenoid).

    I'm honestly losing any hope in this car, I only got it for 1500 so parting it out or just selling it as a non runner I'll make my money back. It's a last resort but if it has to be done so be it.

  20. #45
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    It has ASC but probably an "ABS based" one rather than using throttle cut off to slow the car down... The fact that the STFT's are so negative doesn't necessarily mean fuel is really being dumped excessively, just that the car sees it that way. Which would take us back to the choking condition or at least the PERCEIVED one, and to the error codes you're getting (CPS/MAF).

  21. #46
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    I swapped the Maf yesterday and the P0102 error went away.
    I've also replaced the Crank Position Sensor multiple times with known good ones. Can the timing over advanced codes relate to that?
    Seeing as we've pretty much covered every possible reason why this car wont start could the DME be at fault?

  22. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by KryptonitCentra View Post
    I swapped the Maf yesterday and the P0102 error went away.
    I've also replaced the Crank Position Sensor multiple times with known good ones. Can the timing over advanced codes relate to that?
    Seeing as we've pretty much covered every possible reason why this car wont start could the DME be at fault?
    A timing error code could relate to either an actually bad timing, or one perceived as such. You haven't touched the cams so the 1st possibility can be ruled out (taking the VC off isn't enough to be able to move them if I remember well).
    Given that both your cams are off and you replaced the sensors multiple times, to the best of my knowledge I'd say either there is an issue with the wiring (if that is possible at all, in case they don't come with "newbie proof connectors" - no offense)) or the DME is in fact misreading the signals although the sensors and the wiring are correct.
    "If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity, nothing else matters." Alan K. Simpson.
    5spd E46 "3XX": 328i engine, 330i Intake and exhaust, CAI, 323i diff.

  23. #48
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    Based on the pics in the links below, both sensors are identical in shape but one comes with a wire attached and the other does not (but theoretically the sensors themselves could be mistakenly inverted as far as the wiring allows it):

    https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/par...&q=12147539165
    https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/par...&q=12147518628

    Do you think there is a possibility you inverted them?
    "If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity, nothing else matters." Alan K. Simpson.
    5spd E46 "3XX": 328i engine, 330i Intake and exhaust, CAI, 323i diff.

  24. #49
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    Taking the Valve Cover off doesnt mess with the cams at all when I took it off. The connectors for the Camshaft Sensors are individually shaped.
    I'm sure I didn't swap any connectors or sensors since the wiring can only reach to a certain point. The Intake Sensor is the only sensor for the whole engine that plugs into the wiring harness so I'm pretty confident in that.
    I'm guessing maybe the timing jumped somehow but that even doesnt seem right since it's on gears and not a belt, also there'd have to be severe slack in the chain for it to jump. When I did the videos there was barely any movement in the chain so I doubt it moved time.
    Are you familiar with INPA? Is there any way to see the cams degree or if my sensors are working correctly?

  25. #50
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    Yes there is a way to look at cam degrees with INPA. It's under one of the tabs available in "status" (F5 once you're in the e46 submenu). It even tells what the actual initial position is (before starting up the engine) as compared to the target IP.
    About the sensors, the connectors are individually shaped, but not their "business end". But if the wires respective lengths prevent mistakenly swapping them this one can be ruled out as well...
    About your cam degrees being 30° off, I compared the readings you posted to the target positions as shown in your car's vanos tables using Romraider.
    Last edited by Breeze1; 06-19-2019 at 02:22 PM.

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