04 330i, Crazy Crank No start issue

[KryptonitCentra]

Ive been having this non running issue for a month now and I've finally made some progress but still stumped. The car had a crank no start one morning and I figured why not just do a refresh since it needs it badly.
So I replaced:
CCV
Spark Plugs
Battery
VCG
OFHG
Fuel Punp
All vacuum lines
Water Pump, Tank, Thernostat

After all that I still couldn't get it to run. I did a compression test and all cylinders are 170+. Fuel pressure is 50 psi and 50psi when cranking. Also I tested spark on every coil with my spark checker. So I'm getting fuel, compression, and spark.

So I pulled my injector rial to see if I was getting spray into the cylinders when cranking so I just pulled the rail and laid it on its holes. I give the car a crank and vroom it starts but really rough. So it's got to be AIR right?

I cleaned ICV, throttle, new intake boots and the damn thing still doesnt start with the injector rail installed. The ICV was stuck shut for some reason but I cleaned it again and it moves great now. But I pull the rail to let air in and it starts right up.

Here is a video I recorded of the car running after sitting for a month and having it cold start finally.


https://drive.google.com/open?...yIndFnHLE05c6E0FjgH9tulOhINtzT


Also don't mind the thick white smoke, i'm guessing its oil burning since I thought I washed the cylinder walls with fuel and put a teaspoon of oil in each cylinder while back to raise compression.
After letting it raise to operating temp here is a list of the codes ISTA+ gave me:




As before I can only get the car to finally run is if I pull the Injector rail and let it sit on top of its ports.



Any help with these codes and why it can only run if i pull the rail? Is air not somehow getting to the cylinders?

[dworthy]

I cannot see the picture, so not sure what the codes are.

But going off what you have written, I would go thru and double check your work, for sounds like you forgot to connect something up IMO.

[maxell0405]

My guess: Cam position sensor. And/or O2 sensor missing causing the DME to shut you down.

[MarcoZandrini]

A missing/bad oxygen sensor won’t prevent the engine from starting as the DME ignores them until the engine reaches a specific temperature. Basically, as long as the sap is running the DME is in the open loop mode.

It could be the crankshaft position sensor but I think the engine would start without it.

[Breeze1]

I don't see the codes either, maybe because it's only your second post and attachments are restricted?
Regarding the issue, as it starts with fuel rail pulled out and not the other way around, I'm inclined towards an electrical issue such as ground or short circuit. That or a vacuum issue that is somehow circumvented when the rail is removed.

[Mless5]

It could be the crankshaft position sensor but I think the engine would start without it.

Nope, DME will cut off fuel supply if it isn't reading crankshaft sensor correctly, so it isn't it.
I'd be testing camshaft sensors like your code readings indicate.

[KryptonitCentra]

Thank you all for suggestions.

I have replaced the Crank sensor 3 times with known good ones and this still happens. I have extra exhaust and intake camshaft position sensors I can try but I was under the impression these dont cause no start issues but being rough once it runs.
I just dont see anyway that air could be getting cut off. I'm really not looking to removing the intake again but this cars been a b***h to figure out lol

Any other things I could check? I'm pretty sure I connected everything to there correct electrical connections and vacuum lines but maybe I mistakenly did something.

[KryptonitCentra]

What do you guys make of this? I used ISTA and got some details on the camshaft codes and the degrees of the camshafts seems crazy to me. I also included the o2 sensor information.

https://ibb.co/NNTjBDg
https://ibb.co/Q69SY6c
https://ibb.co/Nxvjc6V

[Breeze1]

What do you guys make of this? I used ISTA and got some details on the camshaft codes and the degrees of the camshafts seems crazy to me. I also included the o2 sensor information.

https://ibb.co/NNTjBDg
https://ibb.co/Q69SY6c
https://ibb.co/Nxvjc6V

Your cams values are off by about 30° each. Try replacing those sensors.
Edit: on second thought, the possibility that both sensors would fail at the same time is really remote. I'd look at the wiring or the fuses, or something that would have altered the cams respective positions during your maintenance.

[KryptonitCentra]

I've checked all fuses and swapped relays with a donor car I have and still didnt start. I also swapped Both cam sensors with ones that came out of a running engine and still didit start with the rail in. I cleared the codes after I swapped sensors but the car hasn't ran so it probably hasn't realized if there is a problem. Before I did any maintenance I never touched any timing or anything u der the Valve Cover.
My last guess is I'm going to have to pull the Valve Cover and see if any issues with the cams have occured. It just amazes me how the car can run with the rail out but not in. Any other suggestions I could try?

[Breeze1]

I've checked all fuses and swapped relays with a donor car I have and still didnt start. I also swapped Both cam sensors with ones that came out of a running engine and still didit start with the rail in. I cleared the codes after I swapped sensors but the car hasn't ran so it probably hasn't realized if there is a problem. Before I did any maintenance I never touched any timing or anything u der the Valve Cover.
My last guess is I'm going to have to pull the Valve Cover and see if any issues with the cams have occured. It just amazes me how the car can run with the rail out but not in. Any other suggestions I could try?

Given that the car starts with the rail out it does seem that it has something to do with vacuum, unless the rail pinches an electrical wire when installed. But that seems unlikely because as far as I remember the only wire in the vicinity of the fuel rail is the one on top of it. I'd starting by taking the VC out as you said, and double check the vacuum lines replaced. As far as the codes go, you do have your cams off by 30° on each side.

[dworthy]

I am betting the throttle plate isn't opening because it is unhooked...

[Breeze1]

I am betting the throttle plate isn't opening because it is unhooked...

So no air, no start...great point.
I just don't know how the cam degreeing can be off on both sides in a symetrical fashion like they are.

[dworthy]

Well that can be the VANOS adjusting for start-up/shut-down. Normally VANOS just doesn't go bad, as it is typically the seals that get worn out.

[KryptonitCentra]

Thank you all for the replys.

I am pulling the Valve Cover rn just to make sure no physical damage has occurred. Also I've taken apart the whole intake side throttle body and iacv in all to check if anything was unhooked or installed improperly. The throttle body is plugged in and reading something because I can see other the pedal position sensors degrees in INPA, and it opens when I move the pedal.

Any other suggestions?
After the valve cover I'm going to pull the intake again and check my entire work on the ccv replacement. It wont take long but I'll get an idea if something is installed wrong.

[Breeze1]

Thank you all for the replys.

I am pulling the Valve Cover rn just to make sure no physical damage has occurred. Also I've taken apart the whole intake side throttle body and iacv in all to check if anything was unhooked or installed improperly. The throttle body is plugged in and reading something because I can see other the pedal position sensors degrees in INPA, and it opens when I move the pedal.

Any other suggestions?
After the valve cover I'm going to pull the intake again and check my entire work on the ccv replacement. It wont take long but I'll get an idea if something is installed wrong.

Sounds necessary to me, to make sure no vacuum lines were missed or swapped around and the gaskets were properly seated.

[KryptonitCentra]

It's the only thing I can think of doing since I've put so many hours into this problem. It's just my last resort if we all cant get this running.

I was also looking at the throttle body and how much of a space is there supposed to be at off position? When starting the car does it use air from the throttle or the idle air control valve?

I'm pretty sure the vacuum lines are on correctly but I'll post a lot pictures to see of anyone sees anything abnormal.

[Breeze1]

It's the only thing I can think of doing since I've put so many hours into this problem. It's just my last resort if we all cant get this running.

I was also looking at the throttle body and how much of a space is there supposed to be at off position? When starting the car does it use air from the throttle or the idle air control valve?

I'm pretty sure the vacuum lines are on correctly but I'll post a lot pictures to see of anyone sees anything abnormal.

The IACV takes over when at idle but I guess the TB opens on startup to supply additional air for the brief RPM surge. Make sure the TB and IACV's fit is snug while you're at it.

[KryptonitCentra]

Here is pictures of everything if anymore is needed i can add more. Also i included a video of me testing the throttle body and it does in deed move when cranking so the car is theoretically allowing air into the intake I guess.

https://drive.google.com/folderview?...QO-7PfvST40Fns

Anybody see anything abnormal in the pictures or video?

[Breeze1]

Everything looks normal to me but it's hard to tell based on pics only. Maybe try and remove the intake and VC and check your work as mentioned by dworthy. You could also try unplugging the MAF sensor see if starts. It will not necessarily be an indication that the MAF itself is faulty but it could point at a vacuum leak

[KryptonitCentra]

I've tried starting with the maf unplugged and I've swapped it out with another known working maf to have them no the same just cranking. When I have the whole intake boots off and can see the throttle and IACV the throttle moves when cranking about a quarter open as shown in the video.

I also got it to run if I pulled the air distribution piece and all the ccv hoses connected to it off. I had the injector rail in at this time. I had it running for 2 mins before I shut it off before any damage could potentially happen. The only codes that popped up where the ABS: CAN data fault and P0011, P0014 again. I'm pulling the VC rn cause the Mechanical camshaft codes are scary lol

[Breeze1]

From the events you described about how the car starts when "removing stuff" and more specifically the CCV, it looks a lot as if something went wrong when you assembled either the latter, or the intake. I'd take the whole thing off and and put it on again, based on step by step tutorials which can be found on Youtube

[KryptonitCentra]

I'll take the intake off in a little, it could be something installed wrong but I really doubt it. The car stopped running before all this work which prompted me to do all the needed CCV replacement.

I added pictures and a video of inside the engine from taking the Valve Cover off. Also the white is condensation I think since the car never warms up anymore and when it does start it's not ran long so damage doesn't occur.

Anyone see anything bad?
https://drive.google.com/folde...rX-fLVK_qQUIXDshsyKoZpPqk7A_36

[dworthy]

That looks normal for the age of the motor, and extended oil changes.

Here is the wagon, but I don't do extended oil changes.

Yeah, the video is looking normal to me for the throttle body as well. How much fuel pressure do you have? I am thinking that adding the extra air of pulling the rail is balancing out too much fuel.

[KryptonitCentra]

Yea the previous owner wasnt too keen on changing the oil. The fuel pressure I get is 50 psi on key position 2 and when cranking its 50-55 jumping.