Gear selector switch

[christofult]

I'm getting trans prog error and am checking things off the list of possible sources.

Is this too dirty to be saved? I can't figure out what they look like when new. Any tips on cleaning besides electrical contact cleaner?

Thanks

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[shogun]

see on my website , all shown there also how to test the tracks on the pins with a multimeter http://twrite.org/shogunnew/otherMod...nsmission.html
But in you second pic it looks like something is burnt, probably like this http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/744694/

Patrick added a relay to gear shifter Reverse Light http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/872371/

[christofult]

Because the dash reads my gear correctly, can I rule this out as the issue?

[shogun]

if the dash reads correct, then it should be o.k.

[whiskychaser]

Because the dash reads my gear correctly, can I rule this out as the issue?

In theory, yes. But the switch looks that dirty and burned that it may not be reliable.

The fastest way to diagnose the fault is read the TCM fault code memory because it is what the TCM thinks is wrong that counts. Read the ECU memory too - the actual fault may be on the engine, not the trans

[unity]

I would consider replacing it, for safety sake. The originals are black like yours with the updated ones being white plastic.

[CroughtonE32]

Four years ago mine burned up completely. I actually smelled the smoke and swapped the selector. This was the story back then.
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...Failure-SOLVED

[christofult]

I got it looking pretty clean and im confident enough. there was a lot of crud on the connectors. Side note that I dont want to start a new thread for - Im cleaning my injectors and one of the two bolts that hold down the wiring harness on the fuel rail is stripped to shit. do these bolts NEED to come out to access the fuel rail bolts to remove the fuel rail?

[shogun]

do not know the M30 set up that much, but Gale has some pics here when he changed the fuel injectors, maybe that helps http://www.nmia.com/~dgnrg/page_17.htm He says:
The swap takes about 3 or 4 hours if you take your time. I started by removing the air cleaner, MAF, & ICV, exposing the top cover of the fuel injector wire chase. It is attached to brackets underneath with two socket head screws, 5 mm allen wrench, Ref. Photo-1 I separated the wire chase cover, not for removal, but for installing the plugs back on the new injectors to make sure all 6 snapped back in snugly, Ref Photo-2. Here's a close-up of the top side of a socket Photo-3. A stout wire harness passes between the intake runners of cyl 4 & 5, Ref.Photo-4. If you unplug the O2 sensor socket & the plug next to it on the opposite side of the engine below the intake plenum in front of the starter solenoid, it will give enough slack to swing the entire injector wiring business out of the way, Ref. Photo-5. I then pryed the sockets off of each injector one at a time with a crude non-BMW approved tool, Ref. Photo-6. The injector sockets have a wire clip on them & are identical to the one on the temperature gauge sender (the one furthest from the head on the thermostat housing). With the wiring chase out of the way, remove the clips from the top of each injector along the underside of the fuel rail, Ref. Photo-7. They slide off easily with a screwdriver. Next, I sprayed some alchohol on the top & bottom of each injector socket & blew them out well with an air nozzle, & put 2 or 3 drops of 3-in-1 oil on the bottom injector sockets to loosen the crud on the o-rings. Remove the 3 hex-bolts which fasten the fuel rail to the intake manifold, Ref. Photo-8a & Photo-8b. Note the brackets for the wire chase cover, the one in the middle is cocked at an angle, the one in the rear is straight.

I removed the clamp which holds the metal fuel lines to the bottom of the intake plenum on the other side of the motor, Ref. Photo-9. This gives the fuel rail & metal lines some slack to raise up. I bled the fuel pressure off the system by wrapping a rag around the line next to the clamp & undid the hose clamp. The fuel rail prys up with a screwdriver if leveraged against an intake runner in a few places. Some injectors stay in the intake manifold & others raise with the fuel rail, they twist out fairly easily.

The new injectors have a different tip, Ref. Photo-10a & Photo-10b. I cleaned all the sockets with a Q-tip & alcohol & lubed the new *o-rings with Hypoid 90 as per Bentley. They slide in easily. Remember to put the clips back on the fuel rail before re-installing the wire chase. The clip on #6 goes back on easier if you reach from behind the engine from the driver's side (left). Make sure the wire clips on the plugs are on correctly & push them in one at a time, you'll hear & feel a distinct click when they're seated all the way. Just in case one gets broken, new plugs are BMW part no. 12521706121.

[christofult]

Thanks, done. Only two of my injectors came out clean, the other 4 left the tip/nozzle/sprayer in the manifold as shown in the picture. Should I drill a screw into the middle and yank? also are these injectors salvagable with a rebuild kit? or do I need new ones. Final sidenote - I need the part number for the 2 inch tube that goes into the fuel rail near the firewall. Couldnt upload the last photo

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