T-hooks, again

[aeronaut]

I hate these things. They work, but only after I've made 2-3 trips between the Thook and the ratchet end. They're just too unstable when not loaded.

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I'm thinking of a "T plate". Something like this. Loading forces it into the "mostly" right position.
It would however put the loading force in a different place than the OEM T hooks.
Thoughts? Anyone seen what that T-hook hole in the chassis actually looks like?

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[olemiss540]

I love looping through the wheels. Soooo easy and have had nary an issue to date. I try to keep it simple given everything there is to Jack with in this hobby.

[aeronaut]

I love looping through the wheels. Soooo easy and have had nary an issue to date. I try to keep it simple given everything there is to Jack with in this hobby.

Excellent point. If I can't figure out a better T-hook option, I'm going there.

[eacmen]

I bought T hooks and have never used them. I was talking to an IMSA race engineer and when he told me all the teams strap down their race cars through the wheels I was convinced it was good enough for my purpose. I asked him if they have ever needed to realign at the track. His response: not because of strapping down.

[emoore924]

Use the wheels to tie down. Allows the suspension to work like it should when towing. Towed like this for 20 years. Only lost one car :P

[aeronaut]

Use the wheels to tie down. Allows the suspension to work like it should when towing. Towed like this for 20 years. Only lost one car :P

It actually doesn't allow the suspension to work the way it's supposed to (it prevents lateral movement of the tire relative to the car). But, I agree that it does not seem to cause any problems. Especially on cars with high spring rates.

[eacmen]

The thing that worried me when strapping through tire was that depending on the angle of the force of the straps you may ratchet it down hard enough to pull it out of caster (esp when using camber/caster plates). Then I realized I'm not that strong even with the ratchet. If the cars alignment was that sensitive there are bigger issues.

[GOFASTT]

I went to hard point tie downs. The front from Condor mount to the cross brace and the rear from Garagtistic at the lower shock mount.

[Mark Aubele]

In the towing world I have seen countless damages from tying down to the frame (admittedly usually guys cranking on the winch too hard), and around 10 years ago almost every decent towing company went to straps over the tires or through the wheels. That's how I tie mine down. Takes a bit longer but I prefer it over pulling the car down forcefully against the suspension via the frame.

[aeronaut]

I like those front mounts!

[19Spec3]

I use the T-hooks and like that they compress the suspension. With the suspension compressed, the car moves around less relative to the trailer and the trailer is somewhat more stable. Admittedly, it's probably not a big improvement in stability.

[aeronaut]

Oh I really like the t-hooks once they are in place and tightened down! Getting them there, is a PIA for me, especially the rears because the straps are pulling a good bit sideways relative to the car.

[aeronaut]

Well, thought I'd try the Condor Speed Shop hook points. Short version; UG.

My trailer is short, so there's only about 12" between the shock bolt (where the Condor rear attach points mount) and the mount point on the trailer. Not enough room for a strap/hooks/ratchet.

And for the front Condor attach points, they don't have enough clearance to actually use a strap hook. I'm guessing the attach points as delivered, aren't bent enough. Ug.

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[19Spec3]

This may be a terrible idea:

You could attach the front hooking points on the car to the rear hooking points on the trailer and vice versa. For example, front left on the car would connect to right rear on the trailer. Essentially, you would make two X's under the car with the tow straps. You would also need to flip your new Condor hooking points to point toward the middle of the car, rather than the front / rear as they are now.

[aeronaut]

Hmmm...that's not a terrible idea.
The longer the strap, the more lateral movement is allowed. X'ing the straps is the right way to minimize that.

I think the front car straps mounted to the rear of the trailer would be fine.
I think the rear car straps mounted to the front of the trailer would be a very long strap. My front trailer mounts, of course, are a few feet in front of the car.

I'll take a look tomorrow.

[Solaris99]

You could attach the front hooking points on the car to the rear hooking points on the trailer and vice versa. For example, front left on the car would connect to right rear on the trailer. Essentially, you would make two X's under the car with the tow straps.

That's how I tow my E36 with t hooks and have never had a problem.

[olemiss540]

Pic of trailer? Just hook through the wheels and enjoy your freedom!

[aeronaut]

If only!
I installed the hook points onto the shocks. I'll see how it loads in a few days. It'll be close.

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[olemiss540]

Wowsa. Very nice rig. Cant weigh more than 1k lbs and love the ramps. I need to upgrade my trailer game!

[aeronaut]

Yea, 650lbs empty. Easily roll it with one hand if just pulling straight.

[GOFASTT]

Well, thought I'd try the Condor Speed Shop hook points. Short version; UG.

My trailer is short, so there's only about 12" between the shock bolt (where the Condor rear attach points mount) and the mount point on the trailer. Not enough room for a strap/hooks/ratchet.

And for the front Condor attach points, they don't have enough clearance to actually use a strap hook. I'm guessing the attach points as delivered, aren't bent enough. Ug.

i had to adjust the mounts as well to get the proper clearance. For the rear points I use the MAC ratchet with the hook that directly attaches to it - this gives you a nice short reach but 12" is pretty short.

[aeronaut]

i had to adjust the mounts as well to get the proper clearance. For the rear points I use the MAC ratchet with the hook that directly attaches to it - this gives you a nice short reach but 12" is pretty short.

Those are the MACs I have also. It's probably 16" or so. It's going to be close... I'll know tomorrow.

[aeronaut]

Yea, distance between rear trailer hooks and shock mounted hooks are way too close, as is. As would be straps through the wheels.

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Front Condor mounts work great, once I added some angle to them with a sledge hammer

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So, using T-hooks still for rear mounts. PIA. I'll figure something out.

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[mlytle]

i used the t-hooks for my e36 race car for years with zero issues. ez to attach and never fell out.

i avoid those rear "shock mount tow eyes" like the plague. think about it......you are applying a lateral load on the end of a bolt a few inches from where it is screwed in. guess what happens? IT BENDS. i have seen this many times on e30's and e36's in track paddocks. horrible way to tie down a car.

[GOFASTT]

I had similar concerns when considering these but now after towing several thousand miles including 5+ hour trips I have not had any issues with deforming the lower shock bolt. Some may have but it has not been my experience, I would also note that I am going straight back to the trailer with the straps. I know some folks cross straps (different debate) but I would not recommend it with these points.