Thermostat time switch unplugged - Cranks but no start?

[GDAus]

Hi .. finally posted a bit on testing/calibration the TTS

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...nd-Calibration

As for the rest ... the TTS is only part of the cold start system ... if your system pressure is low or you Cold Start Injector is blocked (partly or otherwise) that will cause problems too. Even a blocked air filter will affect the air/fuel mixture. K-Jet is also sensitive to dirty fuel .... things like the Fuel Distributor have pretty fine tolerances in them so changing fuel filters is always better early than later.

Checking the spray pattern of the CSI isn't hard. on a cold engine, take it out of the manifold .. leaving the fuel line and electrics connected; get a jar with a hole in the lid to stick the injector into. Safety first with fuel in a highly combustible form! Also the fuel line to the injector may be a little brittle with age .. handle gently.

Ok watch the jar and try and start the engine .. there should be a nice strong conical spray pattern that cuts out after the appropriate time ... providing it is cold enough for the TTS to be in its operational zone.

You can also check it by just connecting 12 volts to the injector terminals and run the fuel pumps.
The BLACK/Yellow wire is the +ve connection. Again ... safety first .. use connectors that aren't going to make sparks!


Cheers

PS ... I just thought to test the resistance on my CSI ... found it to be 3.6 Ωs.

[msiert]

Thank you for sharing!

I do think the fluctuations in idle right after a cold start is being caused by low fuel pressure, the cold start injector is doing its job but for a moment there isn't enough fuel pressure for the other injectors to make the transition from cold start thru warm up smoothly .

Its been a busy week with my sons wedding (that happen tonight) so I have been just living with a cloud of white smoke on cold starts ups this week. The new fuel filter came yesterday so Sunday I'll install the new fuel filter and test to fuel pressure.

[msiert]

Got it done.

The old fuel filter was pretty plugged up, I couldn't blow through it at all but I didn't have a bunch of rust dust when I dumped the inlet side. I did have some little flacks of rust.

The fuel pump tested out at 80 lbs, I hooked up the gauge at the outlet of the fuel pump.

The first start after the work took a little longer cranking and got a very little puff of white smoke, could have just been condensation in the exhaust. Took it for a short drive to get it up to temp came back home and left it for 2 Hours to cool off.

Started it again after the 2 hours and just a very little puff of glitter and no swoop in idle speed at all.

Much better, enough to say the that the new fuel filter was my problem all along, sure would have saved a bunch of time if I would have done the filter first.

But most everything I did was tune up related, plugs, wires, cap and rotor and I confirmed that the cold start circuit is functional and working as it should.

Here is a picture of the fuel dump from the filter inlet side.

[msiert]

I spoke to soon, the white smoke and swooping idle right after start up is back. This time it died. After restarting everything was good.

Since the main fuel pump tested out at 80 lbs and the fuel filter is new, looks like the problem is down stream.

Don't feel like messing with the fuel dist. just yet so I'll check the injectors.

One thing I noticed while under the engine was the bottom of the # 4 exhaust manifold flange (right at the bottom nut) was wet and whatever it was running down the block.

Might be a bad injector on the # 4?

[msiert]

The work goes on.

Before moving down stream towards the fuel distribution hub and the injectors I checked the intank pump, hoses and filter along with peering into the tank to see its condition.

The tank looks good, some spots of surface rust but a mag pen didn't pick any up, the filter on the intank pump looked new too.

i did find the fuel line to the main pump was chewed up and it looked like it went back under the hose clamp, wonder if it was sucking air, you can see the deterioration at the bottom of the hose in the first picture. I did cut it back to solid hose and secured the hose clamp well.

Will see if it makes a difference.

i ordered new fuel injector O-rings for the injector spray test I like to do this long weekend and I like to check the coil and the timing.

[GDAus]

Hi ...
I'm afraid the reality of getting an old K-Jet system working properly is that you need to test and check everything in the different systems, electrical, mechanical and hydraulic (Yes the fuel is the "hydraulic fluid" in FD to control the fuel ratio).

So seeing this

The fuel pump tested out at 80 lbs, I hooked up the gauge at the outlet of the fuel pump

made me wonder just how you tested that?

If you just connected the gauge to the outlet of the pump with the fuel only going into the pressure gauge ... then this isn't really telling you much. The main pump has an internal by-pass valve so that if the outlet is partially or fully blocked, it will allow fuel to circulate inside the pump so it doesn't stall and overheat and possibly go bang!
If you used a T piece to connect the valve in the fuel line .. then that would work ... but 80 psi is a bit high for a standard engine ... 74 psi is usually the upper limit.

Really, the starting point is to make sure the system and cold/warm control pressures are right before making too many assumptions. As well as the correct system pressure, it also needs to have enough volume throughput to maintain that pressure under all engine speeds and conditions.
So to test that, you need to undo the return line to the fuel tank, run the fuel pumps and see how much you collect. It needs to deliver at least 750 cc in 30 seconds.

Also, once the engine starts, it's the WUR/Aux Air Valve combo that controls the warm up phase. They are both temperature sensitive and have electrically heated bi-metal strips in them to reduce the fuel/air flow down to normal operating conditions as the engine warms up. If they don't synchronise properly lumpy running etc. So checking the electrical connections for power and contact condition is important. Also, the AAV can get glugged up and not open properly or slowly as well.

Another also ... in the North American Lamda equipped 1.8 litres, there is an extra cold enrichment system as part of the Lamda controller. There is and additional temp switch on the back of the front engine lifting bracket that is closed 17 oC and below. This put the open loop duty cycle to 60 % until 17 oC when the switch opens. This drops it to 50% before the O2 sensor is hot enough for the system to go to closed loop mode. So same deal .. check the electrical connections and if the switch is working.

There is also the human factor .... when I got my E21 .. with the 2 PO's, it had been through 2 mechanics and an auto electrician and it was very hard to start cold and it ran like a tractor until it warmed up .. and even then the acceleration was a bit leisurely. What I found was K-Jet can be pretty fault tolerant and it can be made to run even with quite a few problems. Took me years of research to learn all the ins and outs of it to finally get it working properly. So things might have been adjusted to compensate for various problems. (the biggest problem with mine was the inlet screen on the WUR was almost completely blocked by fuel glaze ... my control pressure hot and cold was only a few psi under the system pressure!)

Cheers

[msiert]

Hi ...
I'm afraid the reality of getting an old K-Jet system working properly is that you need to test and check everything in the different systems, electrical, mechanical and hydraulic (Yes the fuel is the "hydraulic fluid" in FD to control the fuel ratio).

So seeing this


made me wonder just how you tested that?

If you just connected the gauge to the outlet of the pump with the fuel only going into the pressure gauge ... then this isn't really telling you much. The main pump has an internal by-pass valve so that if the outlet is partially or fully blocked, it will allow fuel to circulate inside the pump so it doesn't stall and overheat and possibly go bang!
If you used a T piece to connect the valve in the fuel line .. then that would work ... but 80 psi is a bit high for a standard engine ... 74 psi is usually the upper limit.

Really, the starting point is to make sure the system and cold/warm control pressures are right before making too many assumptions. As well as the correct system pressure, it also needs to have enough volume throughput to maintain that pressure under all engine speeds and conditions.
So to test that, you need to undo the return line to the fuel tank, run the fuel pumps and see how much you collect. It needs to deliver at least 750 cc in 30 seconds.

Also, once the engine starts, it's the WUR/Aux Air Valve combo that controls the warm up phase. They are both temperature sensitive and have electrically heated bi-metal strips in them to reduce the fuel/air flow down to normal operating conditions as the engine warms up. If they don't synchronise properly lumpy running etc. So checking the electrical connections for power and contact condition is important. Also, the AAV can get glugged up and not open properly or slowly as well.

Another also ... in the North American Lamda equipped 1.8 litres, there is an extra cold enrichment system as part of the Lamda controller. There is and additional temp switch on the back of the front engine lifting bracket that is closed 17 oC and below. This put the open loop duty cycle to 60 % until 17 oC when the switch opens. This drops it to 50% before the O2 sensor is hot enough for the system to go to closed loop mode. So same deal .. check the electrical connections and if the switch is working.

There is also the human factor .... when I got my E21 .. with the 2 PO's, it had been through 2 mechanics and an auto electrician and it was very hard to start cold and it ran like a tractor until it warmed up .. and even then the acceleration was a bit leisurely. What I found was K-Jet can be pretty fault tolerant and it can be made to run even with quite a few problems. Took me years of research to learn all the ins and outs of it to finally get it working properly. So things might have been adjusted to compensate for various problems. (the biggest problem with mine was the inlet screen on the WUR was almost completely blocked by fuel glaze ... my control pressure hot and cold was only a few psi under the system pressure!)

Cheers

i had the pressure gauge "T"into the line from the pump to the pressure damper/maintainer canister. The needle fluctuations during the test was between 77 - 80 lbs. The test was before the damper canister and filter and some pretty tight bends in the piping so mayber after all that the pressure would be less?

i was begging to realize that the cold and hot pressures were going to need to be tested. I have been testing all around it. The cold start injector, the AAV, 17C temp switch, TTS all test out or been visually inspect to work as should. Every contact in the cold start circuit except the WUR has been cleaned.

I was testing the Lambda system today and it passed the full lean test and full rich test with flying colors. After the test it looks like I might be a bit lean but my plugs look like it's to rich, not normal from what they have look like over the last 7 years. I wonder if the whitish, smell like burnt rubber smoke that happens at cold start up is causing it?

Maybe a week spark, the simple things on the spark side has been replaced, plugs, cables, dist. and cap but not the coil. A new coil is coming next week.

Your right the cold and hot pressures need to be tested.

Sounds like I need the Hoffman TU-HC Pressure Test Kit. Is this the one to get or is there a better one?

The WUR.........that guy scares the #*% out of me with those plastic fuel lines and fittings, it's not easy to work on in place and I here it's a PITA to get it off the block. Any tips?

Thanks for your help!

PS: I bought a new multi meter with a dwell function on it today!

[epmedia]

You can use a mirror of some sort at the tail pipe to see if the smoke is oily, or just water vapor out the tail pipe (assuming it's not engine coolant).

[msiert]

Update:

Not calling it fixed, but while going through the ignition circut I found that the transistorized coil ignition plug (on the distributor) could be lightly pull on and the plug would come out of the socket. The garage that pulled the engine last fall to re-seal it must have just plug it back in with the retainer clip already installed.

Pulled the clip out and reinstalled the plug and then installed the clip to hold it in place. Now you can not pull the plug out.

On the 2 cold starts since fixing the plug connection (last night and again this morning) the engine did not pour out white smoke and the idle did not do a big swoop down to almost stalling but it still swoop down a very little. The second start of the day after going to a car show and letting it set for an hour and 1/2 it did give a puff at the start up, but no swoop in idle.

After fixing the plug, I did fasten a round mirror on an extendable handle to the exhaust tip before starting last night and again this morning and both times I just got water splatters on the mirror not any oily resdule, so that's good news.

I'll pull the plugs and clean them up to see if they start cleaning up or continue to show a rich condition and go from there. From the drop in idle of 1,000 rpm -1,500 rpm when unplugging the O2 sensor sounds like the computer is trying to riching up the mixture.

But when I do a volt text on the O2 sensor at the manifold (with the ground on the O2 sensor's nut) multi meter set to 2 volt's with the engine up to temp after a drive, I am getting .042 to .064 fluctuations on the meter? Shouldn't it be fluctuating around .45 V?

I performed two tests on the Lambda system and it looks like it's working?

1. Rich stop test, where you ground the lead wire from the computer to the O2 sensor that would signal a very lean condition......the idle went way up.


2. Lean stop test, where instead of grounding the wire from the computer you tape it to a 2V battery (+) side and then tape a wire from the (-) of the battery to the engine. This signals a very rich condition...…...when I did this my idle went way down to almost stalling.


I have been trying to figure out if I can use the engine test connector at the front of the engine to do a dwell test on the FV but even though the Bosh Fuel Injection book said it can be done, I haven't had any luck, I know you can back probe the FV while the engine is running so I guess I will have to try that but with the above two tests it looks like that system is working.

Next thing I would like to do is check the timing just to see if I can see the silver ball, not sure if I should try to adjust the timming before checking the control and system pressures first? The position the dist is now looks like it's running advance (the transistorized plug is facing more towards the engine vs more towards the fire wall).

[msiert]

Ok, just got done checking the timing.

I un-hooked the vacuum line to the distributor and plug the vacuum hose, set my idle at 2,200 rpm and aimed the stroboscope directly above the hole.

At 2,200 rpm's the timing ball/mark was not visible with the timing light set at "0" advance, I have a 0 to 60 degrees advance scale on my timing light and when I turned the dial to 12 degrees of advance, a permanent black marker line was stationary in the hole next to the line up area in the hole.

When the shop had the engine apart they must have marked flywheel with a permanent black marker where the ball is located? Their black line is what I used, so if the line was above or under or right over the ball I don't know and might make maybe a degree or two difference?

Is it normal to run an advance on these engines and if so how much for a bone stock engine?

This is how the dist is position and was position during the timing test, I did not adjust it.

[epmedia]

The Z Ball is located at 25 degrees before tdc. Try finding that Z ball at 2200 rpms.

[msiert]

Ya, after some reading I found out about the "Z" marks the ball, I'll check that again, from memory the Z was a few degrees sooner then the mark I was lining up. So instead of 12 degree advance I bet it's more like 8-10 advance?

ill report back on the timimg to the "Z" Mark.

Coil ohm test:
I testeted the the coil today and the Secondary /High Side is out of spec, range should be 8.0 to 19.0 ohm k and I got 4.54 ohm k. The Primary tested out with in spec of (.5 to 2.0) coming in at (.8).

The coil 7 years old and has 30,000 miles on it, it is a Bosch # 0221122020 and is silver, I have not found it on line yet to check its spec's on what it should ohm out at but most of the bosch coils I have seen spec's on the Secondary / High Side is way more then 4.54 ohm K.

The new coil I bought was from Parts Geek and is described as a 1983 ignition coil - UF - 27 Standard Motors Products and is black. It should be delivered this Thursday.

PS The ohm tests were performed with a new multi meter and it was calibrated out before the tests.

[epmedia]

Ya, after some reading I found out about the "Z" marks the ball, I'll check that again, from memory the Z was a few degrees sooner then the mark I was lining up. So instead of 12 degree advance I bet it's more like 8-10 advance?

ill report back on the timimg to the "Z" Mark.

To be honest, I've never used a timing light with a dial on it...
Pretend you have a regular timing light without a dial and set the dial as if it were a timing light without a dial, set the engine rpms to 2200 and look for the Z ball. If the Z ball is not visible at 2200 rpms, adjust the distributor to make the Z ball visible at 2200 rpms. Somebody learn me on these timing lights with dials

Tip: make certain the centrifugal advance is not sticky. Also - it's routine maintenance to remove the dist rotor and put a couple drops of oil in the rotor shaft hole, under the felt pad. Of course the engine must be normal operating temp to check ignition timing too.

[msiert]

Got it done, the Z ball is centered in the sight hole at 2,200 rpm with the timing light set at zero advance and the vacuum advance disconnected and the line off the throttle body capped.

The ball was bouncing around a bit and every time I tighten the bolt down the timing would retard and the Z ball would not be visible afterwords. So I took your advise and tighten the bolt when the Z was visible and after tighting in the bolt the ball was visible.

Afterwards I had to turn the the idle screw way down and my vacuum gauge raised from 20.5 from 24.5 after the final idle was set.

On my test drive the engine was pinging on medium and heavy throttle at low rpm's in 3rd, 4th and 5th. I was very low on gas so I filled up with 91 no alcohol and the pinging all but went away but still had some very light pinging on medium and heavy throttle on low rpms in the higher gears.

Looking at the pictures of the distributor before adjusting and afterwards looks like I had to advance the distributor to get timed to factory spec.

The new coil came in today and the primary was the same as my old coil at .8 and the secondary was less at 3,666 ohms vs 5,600 ohms but I went ahead and installed it.

So far the the two cold starts afterwards have been perfect with no burnt rubber smelling smoke but tomorrow morning will be the real test.

Tomorrow I going to replace the spark plugs, the old ones have been gummed up and cleaned up several times durning all this and with the new coil it be good to have new plugs.

Should I adjust the timing down a bit to totally get ride of the pinging or will a mixture adjustment take care of it?

I really like to thank you for all your help epmedia!

The first picture is after setting the timing today, a little more clock wise then before.

[epmedia]

The bouncing around (Z ball) and now pinging while timing set at ball/2200 rpms suggests that the centrifugal advance may not be proper. The rotor should snap back to it's 'stop bumpers' after flexing the rotor (by hand) to 'timing advance' position - it should be quite stiff too, unless there's issues with the springs. * don't break the rotor while checking it!

You can also try setting the ball at 2400 rpms (tad less advance)

Spark plugs :: while t-shooting get the PLAIN COPPER CORE plugs, nothing fancy! The copper is best next to silver for heat transfer, spark strength, etc.. Gap no bigger than .030" for your '83 (while t-shooting).

[msiert]

Definitely using the plan copper cores for now, can't beat $2.30 a plug. I using NGK BPR5ES plugs, wonder if they are a hot enough plug? The gap was increased from 26 to 30 durning the time I was adjusting the timing, I'll explained why down further in the post.

This site has worked less then it has work over the last two days for me. I was checking back a number of times before backing off on some of the timing. With the new factory set timing the white smoke and swooping idle right after starting didn't happen today. After backing off the timing I did get some white smoke an hour after shut down but the idle did not swoop down. Maybe the new coil has helped the swooping idle right after the start up?

The pinging even as slit as it was, it was constant every time I put a little gas in it and it was concerning me. My daughter is taking the car tomorrow while hers goes in for new sway bar links so I adjusted the timing down to get rid of the pinging. She always runs the a/c and has a heavy right foot, I didn't want to take a chance.

Increasing the Spark Plug Gap:
The pinging must have been blowing up pockets of carbon, twice today while readjusting the timing after two separate test drives the spark plug's formed a bridge of carbon in the gap between the copper core and tip of the plug durning normal idle speed after running at 2,200 RPM durning my timimg sessions.

The first time it did this the plugs were gapped at 26 and 3 of the 4 plugs were bridged with a thin carbon strand, I increased the gap to 28 and the second time it was 2 of the 4 plugs and then I increased the gap to 30. The plugs came pre gapped at 35.

I have had no pinging after backing the timing off a bit and not having anymore problems with bridging the gap with strands of carbon but I will hopefully get the centrifugal working and get it set back to the factory timing tomorrow.

Thank you!

[320iAman]

Bosch Silber WR9DS(Silver Tipped) is Standard OEM for 1980-83, Silver is the best conductor of electricity, better than Copper... My BMW Owners Manual lists only Bosch WR9DS. 77-79 oem copper tipped. Stick with BMW OEM parts for your Car Model and Year,, change only if you know its better.

Newer Bosch WR9DS with Blue Lettering and Rings71hqCR5ckjL._SL1400_.jpgOlder Ones Bosch WR9DS s-l1600.jpg--Green Lettering and Green Rings---Been using the Green ones for years, excellent.

Dont change the gap leave at factory gap thats on the box, check it-dont change it.

a Few Reviews:

These silver-tipped WR9DS are the plugs specified for early 1980s BMW M10 engines. I have tried other types of plugs, but they invariable cause more pre-ignition or seem to wear out quickly. The platinum-tipped plugs work all right for awhile but seem to foul quickly. I wish there was one hotter grade, but all in all, it is best to stick with the stock.

Hard to find the correct plugs for my '83 320. These worked like a champ. The heads screw off so the stock plug wires work.

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-WR9DS-S...ustomerReviews

1977-1979 BMW 320i have points for the ignition system and use Copper Plugs-DC
1980-1983 BMW 320i have Transistorized Ignition System and use Silver Tipped Plugs-DS

Randy

[msiert]

Bosch Silber WR9DS(Silver Tipped) is Standard OEM for 1980-83, Silver is the best conductor of electricity, better than Copper... My BMW Owners Manual lists only Bosch WR9DS. 77-79 oem copper tipped. Stick with BMW OEM parts for your Car Model and Year,, change only if you know its better.

Newer Bosch WR9DS with Blue Lettering and Rings71hqCR5ckjL._SL1400_.jpgOlder Ones Bosch WR9DS s-l1600.jpg--Green Lettering and Green Rings---Been using the Green ones for years, excellent.

Dont change the gap leave at factory gap thats on the box, check it-dont change it.

a Few Reviews:

These silver-tipped WR9DS are the plugs specified for early 1980s BMW M10 engines. I have tried other types of plugs, but they invariable cause more pre-ignition or seem to wear out quickly. The platinum-tipped plugs work all right for awhile but seem to foul quickly. I wish there was one hotter grade, but all in all, it is best to stick with the stock.

Hard to find the correct plugs for my '83 320. These worked like a champ. The heads screw off so the stock plug wires work.

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-WR9DS-S...ustomerReviews

1977-1979 BMW 320i have points for the ignition system and use Copper Plugs-DC
1980-1983 BMW 320i have Transistorized Ignition System and use Silver Tipped Plugs-DS

Randy

Bought um, thanks Randy!

[msiert]

Ok, made some good progress today!

The centrifugal advance works, it does move and snap back and there is tension in turning it but I wouldn't call it "quite stiff" maybe medium stiff.

I also tested the centrifugal advance with the timing light by following the "0 Line" rotate as I advance the throttle in steps to 2,500 rpm, with the vacuum to the dist removed and capped.

Took your recommendation to time it at 2,400 rpm for a little less advance but the timing settled in at 2,200 rpm, said what the hell and gave it a road test.

On the test drive I had almost no pinging, only at the most extreme tests, like giving it a bunch of throttle at very low rpms in 3rd and 4th gear and then it would only do it for a very short rpm range. If I disconnect the vacuum advance I couldn't get it to ping at all, no matter what I did.

I'm going to leave it for now and hope when better plugs get installed that will take care of it.

I like having it timed to the factory spec's and move forward to other things if the issues continue.

[epmedia]

There are some centrifugal advance timing specs in the Haynes, probably the Chilton too. Also check the FAQ/DIY thread to see if the on-line manual is still avail.

[mjweimer]

Page 12-302 in the Tech Specifications manual has specs on the centrifugal control and a graph of the curves:

https://www.bmwtechinfo.com/repair/main/017en/index.htm

From the link above click on the picture, then click on 320i - US, then click on 12 - Engine Electrical Equipment, from there use the backward/forward radio buttons to navigate to the correct page.


Unfortunately the scan of the page makes it difficult to read the graph axis information, the advance table above should be helpful though.



MJ

[msiert]

My advance steps did follow the chart, but I just went up to 2,500 rpm's.

During all the timing I figured out I have bigger problems, oil is getting into all the cylinders and is trashing the plugs. My oil consumption has gone way up too.

Going to pull the valve cover and check things out, was planning to check the valve lash and check the venting to make sure things aren't plugged.

Maybe it's the 2,000 mile 15/50 synthetic oil that getting past the valve seals or guides, easier then the conventional oil I have always used in the past. Will change back to conventional 20/50 Castrol today as well.

About ready to push the car into the river.

[msiert]

Well maybe not as bad as I thought!

Put in some old Bosch green strip WR9DS yesterday after tossing the old NKG fouled plugs. Drove around with them a couple times yesterday with several cold starts, all with a little white smoke but the idle did not swoop down at all.

This morning on the first start had a little white smoke, but not much and the idle didn't swoop down.

Pulled the plugs and they were not bad at all, had a little black on them but had a a lot more light brown. I cleaned them up a little before I thought of taking a picture. The NKG plugs would have been black.

These Bosch green strips had 15,000 miles on them and they are doing fine, New ones must be even better! So these are the plugs!

Did a oil and filter change today and noticed that the rubber elbow that connects the airbox and throttle body had oil in it and the throttle body had oil dripping from it too. I also decided to fix a big leak I had in the back lower corner of the valve cover gasket so I pulled the valve cover.

One thought I had was with the large leak in the valve cover gasket being pretty close to the valve cover breather tube that's feeds the tube to the intake, that maybe with the vacuum loss through the gasket and the suction tube that connects to the valve cover, maybe I'm sucking a bit more then the normal amount of oil into the intake that then gets sucks into the cylinders on start up.

While the valve cover was off I checked the valve lash and they must have been adjusted last fall when the engine was reseated because they where all .007.

I have to say that I can live with a little white smoke on the cold startups, figuring that it most likely some oil from either the crankcase vent system getting sucked into the intake and or valve seals and guides.

The proper cold start up idle that has a higher idle at the start and then slowly goes down to a normal idle is a victory for all the work I have done.

Still need to check the cold and hot fuel pressure and checking the injectors before completing this years service work.

That's to all for the help,

[msiert]

Boy, all I can say is don't overlook how a valve cover leak can effect these engines!

Had to be one of the best improvements in solving my cold start problem. I am considering this problem fixed.

As a recap of what was done in the last month to fix my cold start problem.
1. New plugs, wires, dist cap and rotor.
2. Changed fuel filter and check main pump pressure 77-80 lbs.
3. Check the fuel hoses on top of the tank and trim one hose back to solid hose on the line that feeds the main pump.
4. Pulled the in tank pump and inspect inside of right gas tank. (No rust problem)
5. Tested out the TTS and determined to replace it. (the old TTS Failed one test installed on the car but passed it when it was on the bench)
6. Confirmed AAV and cold start injector function as should.
7. Replaced the 17C temp switch and tested out to confirm it was working as should.
8. Confirm FV was functioning and getting readings from the Lambda control unit.
9. Replaced the O2 sensor and tested the volt range unplugged. (Never could figure out what I was seeing, on the 2V setting on the multi meter and I was getting .064?)
10. Found that the transistorized coil ignition plug was plugged in after the retainer clip was installed, so it was not plugged in all the way.
11. Install new coil (seemed to help the idle from dipping as far down right after starting)
12. Adjusted the timing to the factory setting (first time I have done this to any car) made a big improvement.
13. Check the vacuum advance and the centrifugal advance in the distributor to be in good working order.
14. Pull the valve cover and checked the valve lash all were .007 intake and exhaust.
15. Reinstall valve cover without a store bought gasket, used "The Right Stuff" one minute gasket by Permatex.
16. Install some pre loved Bosch green strip plugs after fouling out two sets of NGK plugs, big improvement.
17. Order 8 Bosch blue stripped sparkplugs
18. Change the oil to 20/50 Castrol GTS and installed a Wix oil filter.

The green stripe Bosch plugs, the timing adjustment and fixing the leaking valve cover was probably the only thing I needed to do to fix the smoky and swooping idle at start ups. But I'm glad I went through it all.

Thanks again for all the help!