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Thread: E36 318ti won’t start ?!?

  1. #1
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    E36 318ti won’t start ?!?

    So the other day, was driving along then noticed dropped power to a minimum.
    Pulled other then stalled. Tried starting it again and was firing but wasn’t running.
    Ended up getting it taken back home to start checking stuff.
    Noticed that the fuel pump wasn’t priming ( which it has always primed) which was odd.
    I started to check Volts output to the pump ( while cranking) and was at 7 volts.
    I tried giving the pump 12volts thinking it may have been that but no luck.
    I took the manifold off to check the connections to the cps ( which I forgot to mention that I washed the engine bay hours before) and they were okay.
    But after doing that I have no fuel pump , no injection pulse, no spark.
    Thinking maybe I’ve cooked something? I’m so losted lol.
    I’ve tested the power and earth for the dme replay and that seems okay.
    The fuel pump relay has no earth to trigger the relay.
    Fuse 18 has no power present.
    Also, the engine light doesn’t come on with the ignition anymore either.
    Dme maybe?

  2. #2
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    Last edited by shogun; 06-08-2019 at 04:35 AM.
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  3. #3
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    I didn’t think theses had any? You mean the fuses in the fuse box at the front?

  4. #4
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    No, I mean the inline fuse from battery to B+ pole which feeds the power to the e-box. My E36 M3 has the battery in the trunk and the fusible link is close to the battery hidden in shrink wrap under the carpet in the trunk, see here
    https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...6#post30268706
    Your AUS car should be similar to EURO spec, see here the German ETM for 1998 which also covers a 318i https://web.archive.org/web/20120417.../e36schalt.pdf

    does not matter where your battery is, the fusible link is always near the battery, so in engine bay or in trunk, go to page 0670.2-00 , there you see F97 Sollschmelzstelle, that is the fusible link, just follow the red wire from the battery.
    Example E34 with battery in engine bay, there you see the fusible link http://www.bmwe34.net/E34main/Mainte...sible_link.htm
    it supplies power to the power distribution box in engine bay

    US ETM 1997 https://www.bmwtechinfo.com/etm/data/e36/e36_97.pdf
    Last edited by shogun; 06-08-2019 at 07:52 AM.
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  5. #5
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    Really feels like it could be the fusable link but It really should have blown when you washed the engine. In the future, never wash your engine, use a rag and some cleaner and do it by hand.

    If you gave the fuel pump 12v and it didn't run, then the pump is the problem. How did you energize the pump? at the relay or directly at the pump?
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  6. #6
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    I’m going down to finally work on it again today. So hopefully it’s just that.
    I’ve never had a problem washing other engines. And it was running fine before it stopped lol. And it was 4 hrs later.
    Energised the pump through the relay and checked what was coming out. 12 volts.
    Fingers crossed it’s nothing serious lol

  7. #7
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    If you energized the pump and didn't hear it run, then the pump is bad (you confirmed 12v was present).
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  8. #8
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    So it hasn’t got a fusible link , someone has taken it out ( which isn’t good.)
    I meant that with it bridged it was working .

  9. #9
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    I’ve also noticed that pin 85 has 6 volts there a well. Isn’t it supposed to be an earth wire for the solinoid so the relay works?

  10. #10
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    Do you know how to bench test a relay? Remove it from the car, give the coil 12v and while energized measure the resistance for the switch contacts (not the coil contacts), resistance should be less than 2 ohms. Do that for the DME relay. If that's good then remove the DME and open it up check for bad solder joints and white oxide.
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  11. #11
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    Yeah I’ve checked all of the above.
    Swapped the fuel pump relay with the dme.
    But yeah as I said, the pin 85 of the fuel pump relay has 6 volts there. But as far as I know that’s the earth side of the relay which goes to the dme.
    Dme looked really good inside.

  12. #12
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    The one thing i have been trying to figure out is that does the crank angle sensor and the fuel pump earth in the dme all shared? Wouldn’t there be a diode ? I was trying to look up the dme wiring and that’s what I saw. Diodes only allow current to pass one way correct?
    This stuff makes my brain hurt 🤕 😂

  13. #13
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    Fix your fusible link. Put a proper fuse there, look up the value at realoem.com the amperage value is in the part number.
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  14. #14
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    Was going too. Still doesn’t fix the problem though

  15. #15
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    Test the Cam and crank sensors.
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  16. #16
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    Already been replaced.
    I’m pretty convinced in all the research I’ve done it’s going to to be the dme. Gonna try and get one ordered for next week

  17. #17
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    Did you hook up a fuel pressure gauge yet? Hearing the pump run is not enough.

    You've done a lot already and I don't know all of it, but I haven't looked into you dme pin voltage assertions because I have no motivation to do so. There are links to wiring diagrams on this forum, member 'shogun' posted them, they are for specific models because they varied over the years. People assumed a lot of things were the same for the e36 models and that's not true, even the relay box is different for the years.
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  18. #18
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    Yeah I found a thread yesterday that opened my eyes alil bit.
    I’ve got nothing at the valve on the rail now cause the relay ain’t closing. Bridge it and it works fine.
    As a little test I’m gonna earth out the pin 85 on the fuel pump relay with is earth to the dme and see what it does. I’m the diagrams spark and injection pulse work off the same curcuit. If that doesn’t earth nothing works. Can tell me if it’s dme or possibly something else

  19. #19
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    It is possible to have a bad ground. Lots of times on the main engine ground straps people have had issue.
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  20. #20
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    Hmm that’s actually a good point. In check it tonight

  21. #21
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    Would a bad crank angle sensor cause the cel to not come on anymore with the ignition anymore? I’m starting to doublecheck my part 😂

  22. #22
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    Find the DME pins that are supposed to show 12V, if they don't show 12 then there is a supply issue (bad wire). If the DME is gettins a good 12v then open it up and take a bunch of properly focused pictures and post them here.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Take a picture of how the fusible link was ghetto rigged.
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  23. #23
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    Alright I’ll do that today

  24. #24
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    71AACF4B-42E5-46EF-91A3-AA939C097840.jpgIs that water damage? You can see where it’s gone abit orangw like rust

    - - - Updated - - -

    5E7B3F62-11B7-4F7C-A761-7F578C019A26.jpg

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