1990 325i E30 No Start/Crank But Clicks

[vector1028]

Hi, I have a 1990 BMW 325i E30, Automatic Transmission, around 100,000+ miles.

Disclaimer: Sorry if I sound like an idiot, I’m by no means a mechanic/technician, I’m still a noob when it comes to cars.

The car has sat without starting for around a year+ or so.

The battery has been recently replaced and tested so I ruled that issue out.

When I turn the key in the ignition, the dash lights come on, and when I turn it to start, I can hear a clicking coming from the engine bay, and I assume the click is coming from the starter?

I thought it could have been the Main Relay (61-36-1-729-004) so I bought a replacement and replaced it, but I still have the same issue, I hear a click when I turn the key but it doesn’t start or crank.

I was able to start the car by shorting the starter with a screwdriver, and it runs fine after it’s started.

I’m having trouble figuring out what the issue is here.

Any help is appreciated and please let me know if any other information is needed!

Thank you.

[dworthy]

Welcome to the Forum!

I would first start with testing the ignition switch, for they are known to go bad on E-30's over time, well pretty much any car of that age.

So to check to see if you are getting the signal down to the starter, you will need a multi-meter.

Not sure what tools you do have here, or have access to.

Lastly before you start to do anything, check the date of the timing belt. They have a finite lifespan of about 4yr/50k miles, if it breaks, you project will become a paperweight IMO.

[Breeze1]

Just a thought dworthy: if the OP hears a clicking sound coming from the engine bay when he turns the key, wouldn't that mean that it's functioning but the electrical power is somehow interrupted/shorted, along the way between the ignition switch and the starter?

Welcome to the Forum!

I would first start with testing the ignition switch, for they are known to go bad on E-30's over time, well pretty much any car of that age.

So to check to see if you are getting the signal down to the starter, you will need a multi-meter.

Not sure what tools you do have here, or have access to.

Lastly before you start to do anything, check the date of the timing belt. They have a finite lifespan of about 4yr/50k miles, if it breaks, you project will become a paperweight IMO.

[dworthy]

Could be, as the solenoid might be bad, or just a bad connection perhaps.

Troubleshooting is more like a flowchart, you have to start at one end, and work your way to the other. For me, it just makes it easier to keep with a system, instead of jumping around if you know what I mean.

[Breeze1]

Could be, as the solenoid might be bad, or just a bad connection perhaps.

Troubleshooting is more like a flowchart, you have to start at one end, and work your way to the other. For me, it just makes it easier to keep with a system, instead of jumping around if you know what I mean.

Yeah I see what you mean and it makes sense, it's just that I thought that if the current "makes it to the engine bay" it means the ignition switch is doing its job and the issue is located in the engine bay. But I'm not aware of its (the ignition switch) technicalities TBH.

[vector1028]

Welcome to the Forum!

I would first start with testing the ignition switch, for they are known to go bad on E-30's over time, well pretty much any car of that age.

So to check to see if you are getting the signal down to the starter, you will need a multi-meter.

Not sure what tools you do have here, or have access to.

Lastly before you start to do anything, check the date of the timing belt. They have a finite lifespan of about 4yr/50k miles, if it breaks, you project will become a paperweight IMO.

Thanks, I used a multimeter and checked the starter motor, on one part (bolt? Not sure what it’s called) and I get around 12 volts and on another I don’t get any volts when the key is turned, but I can still hear a click, (is it possible I didn’t test it right?)

Is there any way to make sure it’s the ignition switch, and not the Neutral Safety Switch, or maybe even the solenoid like you said in your your reply to Breeze1?

[325bob]

Thanks, I used a multimeter and checked the starter motor, on one part (bolt? Not sure what it’s called) and I get around 12 volts and on another I don’t get any volts when the key is turned, but I can still hear a click, (is it possible I didn’t test it right?)

Is there any way to make sure it’s the ignition switch, and not the Neutral Safety Switch, or maybe even the solenoid like you said in your your reply to Breeze1?

your symptons are classic solenoid failure, since you hear it clicking, and started by bypassing with a screwdriver, its just dirty contacts inside the solenoid, old GM stuff could be disassembled and cleaned up, not sure about our german stuff.

[dworthy]

Correct, click and not engaging is a classic solenoid failure.

On the big bolt with the red cable, you should be getting 12V-12.6V, while on the smaller IIRC green with a black strip voltage only when the ignition switch is turned to "start".

I suspect your ignition switch is good, so time for a rebuilt starter. Now make sure it is a Bosch reman, not some Autozone special.

Once the starter is out, you can test it by jumping it using cables, and such. Or you can also take it to a parts store, for they tend to have a tester on hand.