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Thread: Steering shake- what gives?

  1. #1
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    Steering shake- what gives?

    Hey guys. I’ve got an SLR Super kit on my e46. I’m having crazy wheel shake problems, anything. Near full lock and my wheel is violently vibrating. People say they can see my wheels flopping around while drifting from the outside too. It’s always been like this, since I put SLR on. When I did SLR, I did new inner tie rods, and SLR pretty much replaced any bushings with either poly (rcab) or spherical joints. While I had the subframe off, I even did the steering shaft joint/bushing with a fresh oe unit. This really just leaves my steering rack, right? The rack seems to have a TINY bit of slop, but not really enough to even notice when driving on the street. What could be the solution to this? Do I just need a new rack?
    Keep it simple: half gutted '01 330i, welded diff, BC coils, SLR Super kit

  2. #2
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    You likely installed the kit wrong

    Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

    Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?

  3. #3
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    Bent wheel?

  4. #4
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    I've seen the spacers and shims installed wrong and caused things to rattle around at angle. I'd go over all the bolts and the instructions to make sure nothing is loose or at an odd angle.

    Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?

  5. #5
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    I intermittently have this issue and after looking over the car i've narrowed it down to two possibilities. Either my cheapo PS pump is pulsing at lock or my top hats sphericals are worn out. (4 year old Maxpeeding rods because the BC plates don't work with SLR.) I put redline synthetic PS fluid in and last time I drove it I didn't have any issues.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Liquidity View Post
    Bent wheel?
    Wheels are true, roll down the road smooth and when on the balancing machine, I couldn't see any bends on either side of the barrel/rim.

    Quote Originally Posted by protomor View Post
    I've seen the spacers and shims installed wrong and caused things to rattle around at angle. I'd go over all the bolts and the instructions to make sure nothing is loose or at an odd angle.
    I'm the first to admit, it's possible I've installed it wrong. It's worth noting that I've reinstalled it already (when I had my subframe off this winter, whole front suspension all apart), and followed the directions to a T both times. I suppose it's something that I'll have to go over again, but I'm fairly certain it's in there right. To clarify, you're talking about the shims with the angle block that change as per which chassis the kit is on?

    Quote Originally Posted by Jrcanes55 View Post
    I intermittently have this issue and after looking over the car i've narrowed it down to two possibilities. Either my cheapo PS pump is pulsing at lock or my top hats sphericals are worn out. (4 year old Maxpeeding rods because the BC plates don't work with SLR.) I put redline synthetic PS fluid in and last time I drove it I didn't have any issues.
    I've got a bunch of good synthetic fluid, I'll flush all the old crap out and get the good stuff in there. Maybe it'll make a difference. I'm not running camber plates, and my BC cols only have.. 10-15k miles on them. I'd wager they're still all solid, but I guess it's possible the joint to the top hat is shot?
    Last edited by awp235; 06-03-2019 at 10:09 AM.
    Keep it simple: half gutted '01 330i, welded diff, BC coils, SLR Super kit

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by awp235 View Post
    I'm the first to admit, it's possible I've installed it wrong. It's worth noting that I've reinstalled it already (when I had my subframe off this winter, whole front suspension all apart), and followed the directions to a T both times. I suppose it's something that I'll have to go over again, but I'm fairly certain it's in there right. To clarify, you're talking about the shims with the angle block that change as per which chassis the kit is on?
    The ackerman set bolt might be off. Sometimes the shims for the shank that goes through the subframe isn't in right or gets loose. If you're running a stock style control arm bushing, that could be it too.

    Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by protomor View Post
    The ackerman set bolt might be off. Sometimes the shims for the shank that goes through the subframe isn't in right or gets loose. If you're running a stock style control arm bushing, that could be it too.
    Ackerman bolt isn't hard to check, I can definitely check that it's set right.

    The shims for the shank that goes through the subframe? I'm sure that I don't have any shims, it's just shank in subframe, and then control arm spherical over shank, and torqued on from both sides.

    I am running a stock style control arm bushing, the poly bushing that comes with the e46 kit.

    I will be checking everything on my knuckle block, it's all wax pen'd so I know it hasn't moved, but I'll check the ackerman setting, and verify the one large spacer and centering washer are on both sides.
    Keep it simple: half gutted '01 330i, welded diff, BC coils, SLR Super kit

  9. #9
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    I think shim is the wrong word. It's the spacer that goes on the bottom of the shank. I can't remember if there's 1 or 2.

    If you're running E46 poly CABs, I know those are known to wear out and rattle around. Happened on one of my dailies. Made a very annoying racket.

    Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?

  10. #10
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    https://slrspeed.com/products/instal...d-torque-specs

    You're talking about the shank that's on Page 1 of this, the first pic- right? Just want to know we're definitely talking about the same shank. I don't have any spacer or anything, other than just the shank.

    OH! Are you talking about the little metal round sleeve that goes around the ball joint to space it out appropriately? If so- how else other than just putting it on do you install it?
    Keep it simple: half gutted '01 330i, welded diff, BC coils, SLR Super kit

  11. #11
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    Could be tie rods, I know you said you put new inners on when you installed the kit but we are getting more and more reports of people wearing through inner tie rods very fast and causing a shake at full lock. Seems to be directly related to the brand of tie rod, with OE brands lasting longer. We are looking into building a clevis style inner tie rod setup with a rod end, we need to do some longevity testing to find out if they last longer but with the right rod end a clevis inner should be better than what we've been seeing with bmw inner tie rods.

    Some have reported switching to an E90 style OE inner tie rod is a good solution since they have much more stout ball joint but you'd need to get a pair of shorter tie rod tubes from us since they are longer.
    Last edited by Piner; 06-04-2019 at 07:06 PM.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by awp235 View Post
    https://slrspeed.com/products/instal...d-torque-specs

    You're talking about the shank that's on Page 1 of this, the first pic- right? Just want to know we're definitely talking about the same shank. I don't have any spacer or anything, other than just the shank.

    OH! Are you talking about the little metal round sleeve that goes around the ball joint to space it out appropriately? If so- how else other than just putting it on do you install it?
    Yea that's it. They really only go in one way but I've seen people omit them entirely.

    Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?

  13. #13
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    put in rack stops. When you hit the end of the rack it goes crazy and wobbles.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by Piner View Post
    Could be tie rods, I know you said you put new inners on when you installed the kit but we are getting more and more reports of people wearing through inner tie rods very fast and causing a shake at full lock. Seems to be directly related to the brand of tie rod, with OE brands lasting longer. We are looking into building a clevis style inner tie rod setup with a rod end, we need to do some longevity testing to find out if they last longer but with the right rod end a clevis inner should be better than what we've been seeing with bmw inner tie rods.

    Some have reported switching to an E90 style OE inner tie rod is a good solution since they have much more stout ball joint but you'd need to get a pair of shorter tie rod tubes from us since they are longer.
    My e46 was eating inner tie rods (2-4 per season). Switched to MOOG HDs and it's been good for a full season. Those Lemforder/FEQ or whatever are junk.

  14. #14
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    Wait, are you talking about overlock flop like what you see from a lot of 240’s running massively modded knuckles? I’ve never seen that happen on a BMW before. Interesting.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Liquidity View Post
    Wait, are you talking about overlock flop like what you see from a lot of 240’s running massively modded knuckles? I’ve never seen that happen on a BMW before. Interesting.
    hard to describe. I would hit the end of the rack and it would like push back the steering wheel a bit then go back to the end of the rack and repeat. I don't have any video but many people commented on it following me. I installed some rack stops and it hasn't done it since.

  16. #16
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    Rack spacers? The rack can only handle about .190” before it bottoms out on the pinion, maybe that’s what is happening.

  17. #17
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    Link to rack stops?

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    Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?

  18. #18
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    I used these but machined them smaller to still get good angle

    https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-3...op-kit/?pdk=BA

    SLR came out with their own since then

    https://slrspeed.com/products/steering-stop-set

  19. #19
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    Ty!

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    Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Novablue454 View Post
    put in rack stops. When you hit the end of the rack it goes crazy and wobbles.

    - - - Updated - - -



    My e46 was eating inner tie rods (2-4 per season). Switched to MOOG HDs and it's been good for a full season. Those Lemforder/FEQ or whatever are junk.
    Yea, I put in brand new Lemforder ones. What moog ones do you have? The ev441?

    Quote Originally Posted by Piner View Post
    Could be tie rods, I know you said you put new inners on when you installed the kit but we are getting more and more reports of people wearing through inner tie rods very fast and causing a shake at full lock. Seems to be directly related to the brand of tie rod, with OE brands lasting longer. We are looking into building a clevis style inner tie rod setup with a rod end, we need to do some longevity testing to find out if they last longer but with the right rod end a clevis inner should be better than what we've been seeing with bmw inner tie rods.

    Some have reported switching to an E90 style OE inner tie rod is a good solution since they have much more stout ball joint but you'd need to get a pair of shorter tie rod tubes from us since they are longer.
    Interesting... How much would the new tubes be? Maybe I'll replace my inners with a fresh set of new ones, and if that solves it, I'd upgrade to the e90 style. Do e90 inners bolt right onto the e46 rack?

    Quote Originally Posted by Novablue454 View Post
    hard to describe. I would hit the end of the rack and it would like push back the steering wheel a bit then go back to the end of the rack and repeat. I don't have any video but many people commented on it following me. I installed some rack stops and it hasn't done it since.
    I've got SLR stops in mine- one on one side and like 1.5 on the other side. I forget which is which, but one side definitely has more clearance.
    Last edited by awp235; 06-06-2019 at 08:44 AM.
    Keep it simple: half gutted '01 330i, welded diff, BC coils, SLR Super kit

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Liquidity View Post
    Wait, are you talking about overlock flop like what you see from a lot of 240’s running massively modded knuckles? I’ve never seen that happen on a BMW before. Interesting.
    I do kind of think what I'm having would be overlock flop. I'm getting some rubbing from it that I wasn't noticing tire wear from before.
    Keep it simple: half gutted '01 330i, welded diff, BC coils, SLR Super kit

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Novablue454 View Post
    SLR came out with their own since then

    https://slrspeed.com/products/steering-stop-set
    You don't have to remove your tie rod to slip these on? I'm confused as to how they work. I hate the idea of having to continuously remove the tie rod and redo the toe just to find out if it'll fit.

    Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?

  23. #23
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    the SLR ones you do not, they just snap on over the rack shaft.

    and yeah, looks like they were the ev441

  24. #24
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    They don't like... fall off? Weird.

    Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?

  25. #25
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    Piner- Wondering your opinion on cutting some e90 tie rods down so they're similar length. My shake is back, not with a vengeance yet, but it's definitely started up again. Only done 4 drift days, 2 2 day events.
    Keep it simple: half gutted '01 330i, welded diff, BC coils, SLR Super kit

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