Where to start?

[VictorReznov007]

About a month ago I purchased a 92 325i. It leaks a small amount of oil out of the front main and possibly the rear main. The clutch also occasionally sticks to the floor. As well as Codes don't flash. The motor was rebuilt about 60k miles ago (263k on chassis) and I have the paperwork so its not just going off someones word. This is currently my only way to get to and from anywhere. #1 priority is the oil. What am I Looking at work wise to change the main seals? Not that worried about the cost. Just looking for advice. Thanks.

[FiberFast]

Welllll. Jack the car up on stands (Way up) Disconnect the o2 sensor and remove the exhaust system from the headers back, unbolt the guibo and transmission mounts (Note: use a white marker on your driveshaft when you split it so you can reassemble it how it was, this does matter for balancing reasons). Remove the speed sensors ect from the transmission, unbolt the clutch slave and remove it from the transmission (DO NOT REMOVE THE HYDRAULIC LINE FROM THE SLAVE) just let it hang so you can avoid bleeding the clutch system as it is a special bitch on these cars. Remove the shift linkage, there is a clip you cant see, but you will need to get a flathead screwdriver under it by feel and pop it out. You will want to do this AFTER the transmounts are removed as the extra room will make life allot easier. Once you have the shift linkage removed you can angle the engine and transmission down a bit more on the motor mounts. Now you can use every single god damn extension you have to reach from the end of the transmission to the upper trans to engine bolts. The rest of the bolts are relatively easy, with the exception of the upper starter bolt back in later (Haha, good luck getting that back in there. I just did mine finally) Now that you have the transmission removed you can remove the clutch and flywheel (Should probably replace those and the pilot bearing as well) And get access to the rear main seal. You will need to empty the oil at this point (Unless you want an oil bath) and remove the crank trigger wheel from the front of the engine (If you have a clutchfan that will need to be removed as well as the shroud) Now remove the oil pan, Now you can remove the seals and replace them. While you are in there, check the oil pump and safetywire the nut so it never spins off (It happens) put it all back together in the order it was taken apart (Or you will have to take it back apart), put oil in it and drive off into the smoggy sunset.

[VictorReznov007]

Thanks for the detailed list. I would assume that a lift will make this job easier? I can get access to one. Whats the approximate time frame on this? I would guess like 3 or more hours. I don't know much about the underside of these cars so I can't really assume anything. Any idea what is causing the clutch pedal to stick I've read anything from slave to master to the entire hydraulic system is bad. Thanks for the Reply

[Eric93se]

I would start at the front leak. How sure are you that it's the front main seal? There are 4 typical leaks up front. First is the oil filter housing seal (OFH) where it connects to the engine, this is not a difficult job and allows you to seal the next issue. Second is the backside of the OFH, there are two ports and they are sealed in different ways, usually the o-ring sealing method fails (found on older e36's), some put new o-rings others find ways to permanently seal the ports. Third is the oil pan seal, not as common of failure. Fourth is the front timing cover, some take it all apart this is time consuming, it usually leaks at the bottom few inches where the oil level goes above the oil pan. Recently I sealed this on the outside with RTV silicone (permatex), you have to fully de-grease the outside and then dry it completely before applying the permatex.

Avoid the URO brand when buying parts.

Welcome to the forum!

[Eric93se]

Don't forget to use the search engine, select the e36 subforum

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...archid=6462639

[FiberFast]

Thanks for the detailed list. I would assume that a lift will make this job easier? I can get access to one. Whats the approximate time frame on this? I would guess like 3 or more hours. I don't know much about the underside of these cars so I can't really assume anything. Any idea what is causing the clutch pedal to stick I've read anything from slave to master to the entire hydraulic system is bad. Thanks for the Reply

You can expect to take about two days on your first attempt. I have pulled my transmission seven times now and it takes me about 45minutes to get everything out. I can replace a clutch in no more than four hours without a lift, which will certainly make your life easier.

[Bumb]

This thread is great. Does anybody have a list of tools you'll need for it? I don't see one anywhere.

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