Hey all, my 1997 328is is having an issue passing inspection due to the code P1188 being present (Fuel Control Bank 1 Sensor 1). Also sometimes in pending ill get P0134( O2 Sensor No Activity Detected (Bank 1 Sensor 1)). Already replaced the B1S1 02 sensor with the OEM part, NGK 25013, also the same sensor i pulled from the car. It has a high idle when cold starting usually, and stays above 1k rpm or so for 15-45 seconds. Recently replaced the O2 Sensor, new CCV Hose BMW part not ebay, New CCV, Bmw original part as well, new valve cover gasket, oil change, No cracks in elbow hose, cleaned throttle body. Havent done a smoke test as of yet. Does anyone know what this could be/ have had this issue before? Any help would be much appreciated, thanks!
Also forgot to mention code goes on and off ever so often, when its off, it seems to run better. The weird thing is i drive it alot, and am sure i go thru the drive cycle to pass the monitors, but the same 3 are always incomplete, and im not sure why. I feel like it maybe resetting itself or something, because i easily have put 200 miles on the car and the monitors still arent good. Tried following basic steps for going through drive cycle. (Drive at 60mph for 10 minutes, idle for 10 minutes, drive 15mph for 5 minutes or so, etc. )
Last edited by E36328iss; 05-30-2019 at 02:48 PM.
bump
Is your fuel pressure regulator hooked up correctly and are all the vacuum lines on it in good shape?
Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk
Your engine has two bank 1 sensors (before the catalytic converters). I'll bet its the other bank 1 sensor that's bad. Try putting the new one in the other bank and see if it goes away.
Not sure what you mean by fuel pressure regulator hooked up. I recently have changed the fuel filter, as well as did a fuel pressure test a while back had totally fine psi. Doesnt seem to be a fuel issue. As for vacuum lines, i recently replaced, ccv, ccv hose, and oil dipstick to ccv. Checked for tears in the boot as well as cleaned the IAC and made sure that hose was fine. Tried a smoke test with a cigarette, but didnt see anything. The odd thing is the pending P0134 code. Especially since i put a new O2 sensor there. It was NGK, but maybe its defective
- - - Updated - - -
The other bank, is for cylinders 4-6 which are fine. Are you saying i should swap them to see if the new sensor isnt working correctly?
Properly smoke test it. Run injector cleaner.
Attn. NEWBIES: Use the search feature, 98% has already been discussed.
Click the search button, select "search single content type", select the "e36 sub forum" specifically, try the "search titles" then try the "search entire posts".
Sorry, i meant the vacuum lines coming off the fpr. The code that your car is throwing is a generic fuel trim code. It could indicate either lean OR rich. To diagnose it further, you need to figure out which it is doing.
Pull your spark plugs out on that bank and see if they are white or black. If they are white, its running lean. If they are black its running rich.
Some things to look at for a lean condition: vacuum leaks, weak injectors, weak fuel pressure, o2 sensors.
Some things to look at for a rich condition: engine coolant temp sensor, leaking injectors, faulty fuel pressure regulator, stuck thermostat.
Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk
This is pretty solid, also check your fuel filter. The pressure regulator can cause lean or rich conditions depending on how/if it is malfunctioning. Finally, the fuel pump can also cause either of these issues again, depending on if/how it is malfunctioning. Personally I tend to hit things with the biggest hammer possible, I would replace the O2 sensor, fuel injectors and o-rings, fuel pressure regulator, filter, and fuel pump. Course all that wont do shit for you if its just a vacuum leak.
Quick Update: Pulled off throttle body to try and re-tighten the hose that goes from the bottom of the expansion tank to the engine as i know im leaking coolant. Took it for a drive and found out i was losing coolant, but it was not from the hose i suspected. It was leaking from behind the oil pan. I got the car up on ramps and noticed the leak was running down from the a few wires that go along the oil pan to the front driver side of the car somewhere. I decided to just pull the intake manifold and found a few interesting things.
Also would like to throw in that all of the vacuum hoses seem fine. No cracks/holes etc. Except the one that is explained below
So in the following pictures.
Picture 1-3: All the way on the left: This is a 3 way tee i believe. The piece with the filter looking thing, is connected to picture two. The green line runs from the tee to the switch. Which is connected somewhere on the intake manifold, closer to the oil filter housing and by the injectors. The second line runs to the intake manifold. As shown in the 3rd picture. Now, the missing part does not have a connector and isnt blocked off. So i believe its missing a vacuum line somewhere.
Picture 4: There is a vacuum line that seems to be cut/sliced/broken. This line is coming out of the intake manifold and is only an inch or so. Now i dont see any lines that arent connected so im not sure what happened. But in theory, is it possible its the missing line from picture one, if that is the case hopefully this can solve my p1188 issue. If not im back where i started and in an even worse position.
My major problem currently is the coolant leak. It is pretty bad. It has leaked probably around the range of a half gallon-full gallon. It doesnt leak when the engine is not running, only when its warmed up and driving. After the car shuts it continues to leak. I checked heater hoses and pretty much every hose and do not see the leak anywhere. My original theory was that it was the hose from the coolant expansion tank that went to the engine, but that no longer leaks. Is it possible i have a small hole, in that metal piece that goes into the engine? I also looked around the cylinder and dont seem to see leakage. Any tips would be much appreciated, hopefully the issues are not as complicated as a leaking head gasket!
Also would like to throw in, charcoal canister P/N 16131180886 vacuum lines are plugged in, but the plastic seems to have broke on it. And when i checked for the coolant leak under the pan, it was just wedged between the oil pan and frame haha.
IMG_3522.jpgIMG_3524.jpgIMG_3527.jpgIMG_3529.jpg
Last edited by E36328iss; 06-25-2019 at 05:45 PM.
Found this picture which will help a little more in explaining. The vacuum supply to fuel pressure regulator is the broken line as shown in the fourth picture i uploaded.
Missing part of the tee, is the Line to exhaust flap Valve Vacuum Reservoir.
So when you blew cigarette smoke in there you didn't see those huge leaks!?
M52 has three vacuum connections at that one junction (not including the brake booster). One goes to the fuel pressure regulator. Another goes to the purge valve attached to the strut tower (larger vacuum line). Third goes to a booster tank (vaccum cansiter) which then tee's off, one is for the SAP and the other is for the muffler flap.
Attn. NEWBIES: Use the search feature, 98% has already been discussed.
Click the search button, select "search single content type", select the "e36 sub forum" specifically, try the "search titles" then try the "search entire posts".
I did not haha. But found this picture. Number 2(Vacuum hose from fuel pressure regulator is what was broken). Now i do not see where that would connect and am not sure where that would go.
Im gonna add a few more pics of what i have currently as im a little confused here. The blue line goes from the canister, to the wiring as shown in picture three. The other line connected to the canister goes straight into the fuse box.
IMG_3535.jpgIMG_3532.jpgIMG_3533.jpg
Also checked fuel filter and FPR vacuum line and all was fine. Issues currently are the missing vacuum line, as well as the strong coolant leak.
Last edited by E36328iss; 06-25-2019 at 06:59 PM.
Just took a look and the vacuum line that goes from the fuel pressure regulator, was connected to the blue silicone hose that connected to the canister as shown in the previous pic. I believe that i have to remove the blue line from the canister and put that into the number 2 slot in the diagram above. As for the missing part of the tee, i would need to pick up a new vacuum hose and connect that to the canister. Hopefully this fixes the P1188 issue.
But the bigger issue at hand is the coolant leak. It is a strong stream that runs down the wiring from this picture. It drips from the rear driver side of the oil pan, right from the wiring. Everything above the metal bar, that connects to the engine as support is dry. So it leads me to believe the leak is coming from the area of which i had the problems before. (Hose from coolant expansion to under intake manifold) The only problem is, that the hose is dry there. So im kind of stuck here. I also wont be able to test for leaks unless the car is on and running. I could try to pressure test tomorrow and see if that helps.
IMG_3537.jpg
Oil pan is on right side of image, and the wet wires is where it was dripping down to. That was also where the canister was sitting before lol. Since the plastic that was holding it broke off
Last edited by E36328iss; 06-25-2019 at 08:21 PM.
Replace all of the coolant hoses, especially the three at the back of the engine while you have the intake manifold off. You likely have a split end in one that is causing your leak. Replace the vacuum lines one by one to avoid mixing them up. The labeled pic in post #11 is a great guide.
Actually recently did a coolant overhaul due to the previous leaks. So new radiator, upper and lower hoses, new expansion tank, cap, expansion to engine hose. Odd thing is the coolant level sensor wiring is straight split. I guess i will have to cut and splice it back together. Wonder if anyone has had the issue ever lol. But there seems to be zero leaks from the rear. Not a single hose was wet. Such an odd leak. Im thinking it could be bad head gasket/cracked cylinder head but not 100% sure. Compression was great last time i checked (A few months ago). Oil is not mixed. But it has overheated maybe 3-4 times. Not straight line to red at end. But 75%-80% there. Due to lack of coolant.
If I am looking at your pics correctly, the bundle of wires that are wet from your leak are the two post cat O2 sensors and the fuel pressure regulator harness. These are located under the heater control valve which has three hoses connected to it, replace those hoses. I lumped them in with all of the hoses that contain coolant (didn't notice that you replaced the others) but they are probably called heater hoses. The large plastic cylinder by the starter with the blue hose on it is the vacuum tank for the exhaust flap.
Bookmarks