I have only pics from E32, not sure how it is on E31 cluster. E32 http://bmwe32.masscom.net/johan/eml_bulb/eml_bulb.html
http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/s...akte1,oben.jpg
http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/92132/
someone with an E30 with M70 engine had the same problem = limpmode, as he did not use the E32 cluster with the EML light, on the German forum they solved the limpmode prob of missing EML control light by installing 2 bulbs, and it was mentioned: sie haben 80mA und beide sind Paralell geschaltet!
Note: all this info is for E32 cluster, just for reference
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
Well my car just went limp Yesterday, scanner told me o2 sensors, luckily I had a spare brand new in the box (came as an extra 3 e31’s ago) and boom it’s gone! Wish they were all that easy.
Put Two Bulbs in for the Check Engine Light and my turn signal and behind the odometer and a couple other that were marked but had no bulb.
Did not change anything other than all my lights work
Check Engine Light will come on with the key turned to run but will not turn off until I start it. Then it will go away under heavy throttle but come back as soon as I lift off.
I am going to get my laptop sorted this weekend and look at codes
Have you considered plugged cats? Try removing the upstream O2 Sensors to see if it idles better. I chased all manner of issues with misfires reported on different cylinders on an 840 that barely ran until I let it "exhale" through the O2 holes. New cats and runs perfect now. Several injectors were bad. On any car, running too rich will overheat and destroy cat guts.
Swapped MAF Sensors and car ran worse. Drivers side which had been "weak" swapped to passenger. Ordered two rebuilt Cardone from Summit. We will see if they can get them.
Throttle Bodies and Potentiometers are still suspect
Previously I could unplug the MAF Sensor and it would hesitate but continue running
Got one new MAF, Swapped it for the one that I thought was bad, No Change
Swapped the Bad one Back in for the other one and it ran worse
Swapped the New one to the other side and put the "Good" one back in, No Change
Uplugged the "Good" one and it hesitated and kept running
Uplugged the New one and it stopped dead
Two Bad MAF Sensors?
Put the one you thought was bad and the new one back in.
Are you getting fuel and spark from both banks? Both DME's good?
Last edited by 8eights; 06-22-2019 at 09:35 PM.
Replaced O2 Sensors Just Because
Replaced Spark Plugs Old and Bad
Replaced Spark Plug Wires Tested Two Bad
Replaced Distributor Caps and Rotors Worn
Replaced Coils Tested Bad, No Difference
Cleaned Throttle Bodies Commutators were nasty
Replaced MAF Sensors, both tested good but made no difference if you disconnected them. Replaced both and Check Engine light is out, 100 miles test drive for later today
Problem solved with changing the MAFs?
I remember I had a problem of similar kind, there the cause was a broken wire loom from e-box to the MAF. The outer sheath of that wire loom get's stone hard after so many year in that temperature environment and when that breaks it cuts into the single wires inside, usually in places where the loom is moved, found some broken just about 10 cm before the plug goes into the MAF. Sometimes the contact was still there, sometimes not. Found that in several M70 engines of my wrenching friends.
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
Other than the Coils everything I did had an effect on it running better.
Had I just changed the MAF sensors to start with I would have ended up changing all of the rest anyway
Did the Maf sensors fix your issue?
haha, i was right already in post #2 ..... ?
in case you need a new plug for the MAF sensor, that is not listed under E31 and E32, PLUG HOUSING 7-POL 12521737668 , here the details https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...flow-connector
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
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