Replaced alternator now it won't start

[frscott]

Replaced the alternator and power steering pump/reservoir on my 2001 530i, looked up the serial numbers to get right parts...everything back in, wires connected, tried to start, and all it does is spin the starter, not fire. Has to be the alternator??? Is there anything else in that line that would effect starting?? No codes generated either, I am stumped. Any thoughts? This model does come with two models of alternator, 90v and 120v, my serial number brought up the 120v, but would that create a non starting car? i would figure that would just create a charge code and a battery light. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

[danb1979]

Recheck all connections, plus battery connections and try again.

Was the alternator new or reconditioned?

[mattmar1]

is the starter free spinning and the engine not turning over or is the engine turning over when you try to start it? for what reason did you need to change the alternator?
your alternator isnt the immediate cause of your problem. the alternators job is to keep the battery charged, that you are getting some action when trying is telling you that there is some battery power at least.
if your alternator had failed, and it ran the battery down, or you tried cranking the car with a very low battery charge level, you may have lost sync tween the DME and the EWS system. have you fuel pressure and spark to the engine?
and fyi, a bad alternator will cause the battery light, but there is no code set directly by a failing charging system. alternators come in 90 and 120 amp versions (charging current), not 120 and 90 volts.

if youve no fuel pressure pressure or spark, read this excellent thread by geargrinder. its the troubleshooting bible for this kinda issue.
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ends-are-wrong

[frscott]

The alternator failed because of the power steering reservoir leaking, a problem I left for too long. The car went into protection mode and was creeping along, and the codes at that time lead me (along with internet search on the code) to see that the alternator was over charging. My search led to the PSF leaking into and corroding the alternator, so that is why I replaced it and the reservoir and the pump while I was at it. The engine is cranking, I included a video of it. Battery is and was good. Whether or not it was the culprit of the car breaking in the first place, the whole side was coated with PSF, so it was a good thing to get it clean regardless. So battery was good and is good. I am new to working on BMW's, my former was a Jeep TJ, and it was very straight forward....what is the DME and EWS? How would I check the fuel pressure and the spark?

Thanks for the feedback, I am struggling to learn this car and I appreciate any help!

[mattmar1]

what codes were you getting? as to actual codes for undercharging/overcharging, there are no specific codes that tell you that. i can be deduced symptomatically though. voltmeter is the way to give one a definite answer.
ok its cranking over. wasnt sure from your first post. not seeing any motion on your tach when cranking. to check for spark, pull one plug, connect the coil to it, (or use a spare plug) make sure the threaded body of the plug is grounded, crank it over, look for spark at the plug. for fuel pressure, read the pressure at the fuel rail that feeds the injectors. running, should be 50 psi. since its not running, lift the rear seat, turn the ignition to pos 2, you should hear the pump run for 2 secs or so. (its under the back seat, passenger side). the pressure at the rail should be around 45 or so, it will slowly but not appreciably fall off.

[Mike WW]

So battery was good and is good. I am new to working on BMW's, my former was a Jeep TJ, and it was very straight forward....what is the DME and EWS?

Odd things have been known to happen due to battery issues, which is why that question was posed. DME is the engine ECU/computer. It runs the engine. EWS is the anti theft system, a very, perhaps overly, sophisticated system. It and the DME can get out of synch and end up in a no start situation. These are fine cars in many ways, particularly mechanically, but are complex, perhaps over complex, electronically.

There's an old joke about engineers which says if it still works, it's not complicated enough. I think it applies doubly to German engineers. I suspect many more problems have been caused to actual owners by the EWS system than thefts prevented, though I hear at least some of it was mandated by the EU to prevent auto theft.

[JimLev]

You can borrow a fuel pressure gauge from Autozone or O'Riellys, just need to give them a deposit that you'll get back when you return it.
Get a friend to crank the engine over while you look at the plug for spark.
If your EWS needs to be synced with the DME find someone that has INPA?

I suspect many more problems have been caused to actual owners by the EWS system than thefts prevented, though I hear at least some of it was mandated by the EU to prevent auto theft.

Yes, when I use to travel to Europe for work the rental car companies didn't want the car parked on the street at night. This was in Italy and countries that bordered eastern euro countries.

[jclausen]

I would thoughtless recheck your work and connections, I wonder if one of the main fuses blew that are under the passenger side carpet

[djb2]

You original diagnostic may have been a little off.

Leaking power steering fluid is unlikely to have killed the alternator. The brushes are well shrouded, and the sealed bearings aren't going to be bothered. Over the long term the oil will gather gritty road dirt, which causes problems, but the oil itself isn't doing damage.

I would double-check the electrical connectors.

[frscott]

I am going to check for spark and fuel...I think djb2 may be correct about the original diagnosis, I had three codes. "P1892" which was unidentified, P0420 which was efficiency of the catalyst system,which I did not try to fix,and P0456, which was the EVAP system, I had earlier gotten a check engine light with a P0444 code... which said I had a faulty valve, which I did fix. After research for the P1892 code, I found this on this form..."Once at the store I had my codes run and pulled the code P1892 which is not in the bentley repair manual but research shows it has something to do with the alternator and incorrect voltage. When testing the alternator with the car idling it read 15.5v which is too high. Has anyone experienced this before is it a faulty alternator, the voltage regulator, or something like a battery? Any input would be appreciated. " from this thread https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...-II-Code-P1892 which is why I took after the alternator. Honestly there was so much fluid and muck on that side of the engine I am happy to have done the work just to clean it up, but you are right it may not have been the problem. Overall I agree, this is a slightly more complicated engine than my old TJ! But I can be taught...

[frscott]

Just to close this thread, found out my lifters had settled over the three weeks it took me to do the work on the power steering and the alternator. I asked a mechanic and he suggested to just crank the heck out of it, build oil pressure, and it worked, car starts fine now.

[edjack]

If your lifters drained out in three weeks, the may be sludged up. Do a Rislone treatment.

My 540 would set for five weeks at a time when I was traveling. It always started.

[CSMBlack-540i]

My 540 would set for five weeks at a time when I was traveling. It always started.

Same here. Have a Battery Tender attached to the battery and can sit for 1-2 months and starts immediately w/o issues.