E36 will not start

[DaughtersBMW]

I have an e36 that will not start. It has been suggested that I check the crankshaft sensor. I checked it, the resistance was 900 and something ohms. I believed that this was high so I bought a new one. The new one was 540 ohms. The car still does not start.
i have a question about the supply of power to the sensor. I unplugged the sensor and checked for voltage output from the socket where the sensor plugs into the car (while the car was being cranked) and there is no output. I'm sure there needs to be a supply of power from the car to the sensor.
Any idea what I should check next?

[shogun]

Moved from E32 forum to E36 forum
I do not have the VIN of the car, but the EURO m40 has 12141727555 pulse generator http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/E3...e/wheel_casing
this should have 540 ohm, see here https://www.daparto.de/Teilenummerns...5?ref=fulltext
to measure scroll down here, last pic shows the pins http://www.e32-schrauber.de/bmw/s-kw-sensor.htm
between PIN 1 and PIN 2 540 +-10% Ohm.
Between PIN 3 and 1 or 2, an infinite resistance is measured

i have a question about the supply of power to the sensor. I unplugged the sensor and checked for voltage output from the socket where the sensor plugs into the car (while the car was being cranked) and there is no output. I'm sure there needs to be a supply of power from the car to the sensor.

Actually there probably does not need to be power. Like ABS sensors they are inductive and generate AC voltage on their own as the toothed gearing passes by the sensor. That voltage is read and the ECUs go off that.

[Eric93se]

CAMshaft sensor is even more common.

What year is the car? What is the battery voltage?

It's good you replace the crank sensor because they was way out of spec.

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Can you scan for codes? If it's old and OBD1 then look up how to do the 'stomp test'.

[shogun]

Eric, stomp test does not work on his car, EURO spec, he is located in Tasmanian Australia

[DaughtersBMW]

The car is 1991. Need to check VIN . I don't have access to a scanner. I gave the stomp test a go, but as Shogun pointed out it didn't work.
I don't think I have a camshaft sensor. But I do have a sensor around one of the spark plug leads. The resistance there seems to be about 500 ohms to begin with, but quickly drops to zero.
i am still thinking that some power ought to be supplied to the crankshaft sensor from one of the three pins. I think it is a hall sensor not an inductive sensor. I think inductive sensors only require 2 wires.

[spyderg0d]

3rd wire is a ground shield against electrical overload or shorts, or power surges. The 3rd wire isnt connected in the system as why it has infinite resistance. The sensors dont recieve voltage, the ecu reads the voltage created as pulse to determine crankshaft location for ignition base timing.

[DaughtersBMW]

Firstly I must thank shogun and spyderg0d for putting me straight about the power in the sensors.
I think I have a ping sensor instead of a camshaft sensor. This sensor is not holding resistance. Resistance measures about 500 ohms and then drops to 0. Can this stop the car starting? Should the resistance be 540 ohm?

I do however have spark at the spark plugs.
The VIN of the car is wbaca32040ak52348

[shogun]

Based on VIN it is an M40, built date May 1991, manual transmission. Pulse generator 12141727555 http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/E3...ng/#1727555_22
http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/E3...browse/engine/
12141727555 for Saloon: - 316i M40 - 318i M40 Item Name: Crankshaft Pulse Sensor,Number of pins: 3, Sensor Type: Inductive Sensor, Cable Length [mm]: 635 mm, Resistance [Ohm]: 540 Ohm

your car does not have the Motronic 1.1 or 1.3, but you can use the tech details, that is basically all the same/similar https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ic-1-1-1-3-BMW
Basic ECU operation
A permanent voltage supply is made from the vehicle battery to pin 18 of the ECU. This allows the self-diagnostic function to retain data of an intermittent nature. Once the ignition is switched on, a voltage supply to ECU pin 27 (not 1987 M1.1) and to the ignition coil is made from the ignition switch. This causes the ECU to connect pin 36 to earth, so actuating the main fuel injection relay. A relay switched voltage supply is thus made to ECU pin 37, from terminal 87 of the main fuel injection relay. The 1987 M1.1 system relay is connected to earth and not to the ECU. However, once the ignition is switched on the relay operation is similar to later models.
The majority of sensors (other than those that generate a voltage such the CAS, CID, KS and OS), are now provided with a 5.0 volt reference supply from a relevant pin on the ECU. When the engine is cranked or run, a speed signal from the CAS causes the ECU to earth pin 3 so that the fuel pump will run. Ignition and injection functions are also activated. All actuators (Injectors, ISCV, CFSV etc), are supplied with nbv from the main relay and the ECU completes the circuit by pulsing the relevant actuator wire to earth.

you can use the parts catalog with the VIN to check for parts http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ront-location)

and then you have a pulse generator/donut in the ignition wires http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/E3...ing_sparkplug/
12121734141 = for example VEMO V20-72-0399
On my E32 this donut/cylinder identification sensor has 1 ohm

also check the distributor cap and the rotor

[spyderg0d]

Indeed, the sensors are 5v powered when the dme is active. Usually, 99/100 its not an issue as a suddenly non starting vehicle

But some better preliminary question are in need of answering.
When you turn the key to position 2 (not activating the starter) and all the dash lights are illuminated, is the CEL light activated as well? It should come on. If that light doesn't come on, either the bulb is out or the dme is not being powered. If the dme is not being powered, check the dme relay, and all the fuses electronicly (not by sight) as hairline cracks that cant be seen happen often.

[shogun]

his EURO spec car probably does not have a CEL light, also no stomp test. Same on my EURO E32, there is the bulb holder for the CEL light, but no bulb inside and not wired on my E32, many stories on the German forums how to get the stomp test working

[DaughtersBMW]

I had a look at the dash, and can not see a check engine light. I did check all the fuses for continuity (all good). I also checked the relays again. I had changed the fuel supply relay (as stated in my other post).
I decided to change the fuel filter and while I had it off I had the thought of seeing how much fuel that the fuel pump pumps (I don't have a fuel pressure gauge). It did not work as I expected. Maybe because of the computer. This is what happened.
I turn the key and dash lights come on. No petrol out of pipe yet.
I turn the key more, engine starts cranking. No petrol yet.
I release the key. Presto a little weak spurt of petrol.
I expected that the fuel would pressurise when I first turned on the dash lights. Or at least when engine is cranking.

Maybe the ECU knows I disconnected the the fuel line.
Tomorrow I'll try to bypass the ECU, power up the fuel pump by itself and see if I get different results. Maybe I have a faulty fuel pump.

[spyderg0d]

Oh.. My bad.

[Eric93se]

This is normal behavior, the fuel pump primes for a second. You should still test fuel pressure, hook up a gauge and energize the pump at the relay. be sure to energize the correct two wires, don't do it if you don't understand how relays work.

I had a look at the dash, and can not see a check engine light. I did check all the fuses for continuity (all good). I also checked the relays again. I had changed the fuel supply relay (as stated in my other post).
I decided to change the fuel filter and while I had it off I had the thought of seeing how much fuel that the fuel pump pumps (I don't have a fuel pressure gauge). It did not work as I expected. Maybe because of the computer. This is what happened.
I turn the key and dash lights come on. No petrol out of pipe yet.
I turn the key more, engine starts cranking. No petrol yet.
I release the key. Presto a little weak spurt of petrol.
I expected that the fuel would pressurise when I first turned on the dash lights. Or at least when engine is cranking.

Maybe the ECU knows I disconnected the the fuel line.
Tomorrow I'll try to bypass the ECU, power up the fuel pump by itself and see if I get different results. Maybe I have a faulty fuel pump.

[DaughtersBMW]

Does the m40 have one of those valves (Schrader) for the pressure tester or do I need to tee into the system.

[DaughtersBMW]

I ' T ' into the fuel line at the tank and go instant 55 - 60 psi. I changed fuel filter.
I'll try to start after the battery has been charged.

[DaughtersBMW]

Ok. Still won't start. Have spark at the leads. Can not get spark plugs out. So haven't seen what they are like. Have sprayed them with lubricant hoping to make them removable.
The donunt sensor on the lead has zero resistance. Would the zero resistance stop the car from starting/running.

[shogun]

From the M70 engine the spec for the donut is accdg to the workshop manual: cylinder identification sender coil resistance at 20 degree C (68F) <1 ohm , so basically zero.
If the donut will not work: If the inductive sensor on the plug wire (CID) fails, then it goes into gang firing, since the engine FI is a semi sequential design, meaning that it triggers the injectors in 2 banks of 3 every other revolution, when it goes into the gang fire, then it triggers all cylinders at the same time every revolution but decreases the volume of fuel by 50% .
I posted the details here for the M1.1 and M1.3 , basically similar for all Motronic's https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ic-1-1-1-3-BMW

[DaughtersBMW]

I pulled the Ecu out just to do a visual check. Looks fine, no sign of moisture or burnt components.
So. I know I previously said I had good spark. Well I thought I would check spark again. Now I feel a little stupid because I do have good spark on one cylinder. The only cylinder that I had previously checked. The rest of them are dead.
The leads are fine ( All the leads are fine. I checked them in the only working distributor cap hole. ). The coil fires continuously. The distributor cap needs replacing. Hopefully that is the problem.

[shogun]

When you mention the distributor cap, I now remember a case my friend had on his Alpina B12 E32, we searched a long time, finally it turned out that the distributor rotor had cracks and also the distributor cap was damaged, here some pics
http://e32b12.blogspot.com/search/label/Distributor

[DaughtersBMW]

Now I have found the problem. I have heard all you need is fuel and spark. But there is something else that you require. The reason I only have spark on one lead is because the rotor button is not spinning. I believe I have a broken timing belt.

Now before I start on this repair does anyone know if it is possible that I have not damaged any valves or anything else (M40). The crank cranks freely and there is no sounds of any binding or unusual sounds. Also is there any special tools required for this job?

[shogun]

America didnt get the M40 engine, so looks like it is not in the https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/ only M44
For European/Australian models: 318is - all chain driven, M42 and M44 engines, 318i - belt driven M40 (up to 1993) and chain driven M43 (after 1993)

M40 Timing Belt Change https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/inde...ng_Belt_Change
http://www.unofficialbmw.com/phpBB/v...ic.php?t=32979
good info in German https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Egj1Z1DHDwU
https://www.tooled-up.com/artwork/ProdPDF/VS118.pdf
damages to pistons? read here https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...elt-snapped-o(

google for: bmw e36 m40 timing belt replacement
and best is you get a Haynes repair manual, as the Bentley will probably not cover the M40.

[DaughtersBMW]

Thank you shogun.

[shogun]

M20 timing belt DIY, for info
http://www.angelfire.com/blues2/bimm...imingbelt.html
M40 cam locking tool dimensions http://bmwe30network.net/forums/read.php?3,7486
torque https://www.bimmerforums.co.uk/forum...cement-t78843/
parts list https://clickableautomotive.com.au/b...311727611.html
this is a M20 DIY, also helps https://classicbimmerbits.com/e30-ho...t-replacement/

[Eric93se]

Might be a good time to do water pump, thermostat and fresh fluid. Pullies as well.

Good luck on it, post some pics!

[DaughtersBMW]

Have looked at shoguns links and elsewhere, it seems that more damage has been done. Bent valves for sure and maybe even piston damage.
I am thinking more to replace the engine with a second hand one.