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Thread: protecting the back glass-- procedures, please?

  1. #1
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    protecting the back glass-- procedures, please?

    In searching, I've seen references to using the pool noodle or a folded towel across the back glass as it is being lowered. I'm starting to see some creasing/rub marks on my fairly new top and want to keep it from getting worse. I have the powered top. What is your technique for inserting or removing the towel/noodle while lowering the top, if you need to be working the switch with your foot on the brake? Do you lower and then manually lift the top frame to put it in/out or is the frame in tension from the cylinder? Do you stop before it goes all the way down and put it in/out, then finish lowering? Thanks.
    ‘98 Z3 2.8 roadster, Montrealblau/tan 5sp, M50 manifold, AFE intake, SuperSprint catback, Bilsteins, BAVAuto sport springs, Style 42 BBS

  2. #2
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    I don't use a towel or a pool noodle (unless I'm installing the HT) and I still have to get out of the car while lowering the power top. The window never seems to fold quite right and I have to stop it mid way and do a karate chop in the middle of the window to force it to fold.

    I kind of defeats the purpose of the power fold top.

  3. #3
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    I replaced my window a couple of years ago, and started to see some scratching on the new screen. I use a microfibre towel that I put over the window to ensure that the canvas of the roof can't rub against the window. It's a pita, but I figure it's better than damaging my new screen. I have a manual roof, so it's just a part of lowering and raising the roof, and is why I haven't bothered to convert to a power roof, despite having all the parts to do so!

  4. #4
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    I throw a clean bath towel over the window before I put the top down...if I think it is going to stay down for a while.
    If the weather is iffy and I may have to put the top up “on the road”, I skip the towel. I have put the top up (or took it down) while stopped in traffic. No getting out to mess with a towel at that point.

    Greg
    Tally Ho


    http://wcwebs.net/johnson
    1988 O'Day 322 sailboat - (unlimited mpg)

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  5. #5
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    I replaced the window with an emiata one 6 years ago and have never done anything to protect it--I just put it up and down with the button and leave it at that. Looks basically just like it did when I installed it. No need for any precautions as far as I can tell. Of course, I only put the top up to wash it and for winter storage, and I only drive it a couple of thousand miles a year, so it doesn't get much use. When I wash the car I don't get the top wet or spray the window, but I do wipe the window off with a damp micro fiber wash rag.

  6. #6
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    I have yet to find a viable solution. If I use nothing, it creases and leaves a bend mark. If I use too big of a towel, it doesn't retract enough to get the hard tonneau cover properly installed. A small enough towel for full retraction still leaves a slight crease (too soft to keep it from getting a fold in it). Using a 1 1\2 - 2" pool noodle sounds good in theory, but I still end up with a crease.

    Two possibilities come to mind.

    The pool noodle may work if you could guarantee that it would end up in exactly the right location to maintain a curve in the window. It could shift out of position when it's free to move around as the top is lowered. I haven't tried this yet, but just thinking a good tape like clear shipping tape could be used to attach the noodle across the center where the fold occurs. From experience, I know that if the noodle is shorter than the width of the window, it will leave small verticle creases where the ends of the noodle touch.

    Another possibility is an orthopedic pillow. That would be less rigid than the pool noodle and could be cut to fit inside the retracted fold.

    If either of these or anything else works, I'll post back.

    I look forward to a fix, because I intend to keep the top down with the hard tonneau cover the entire driving season. We only intend to do perfect weather pleasure rides while storing it inside the rest of the time. The only time I plan to have the top up is during winter storage.
    Last edited by Tigershark48; 05-24-2019 at 09:54 PM.

  7. #7
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    An emiata window is about $100. If you lower your top 50 times a year, and replace the window every 5 years because you do nothing to care for it, that's 250 top lowerings per window. If you go to the trouble of putting towels and noodles under it, you are earning about 40 cents each time. Not worth it, imo. .......... (With creative math like that, I should go to work for the federal govt.)

  8. #8
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    At only 20k miles, the top is still like brand new. The number one question is if the temporary fold will actually destroy the window if it stays in the down position all summer or will it simply stretch itself smooth every winter with the top back up?

  9. #9
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    Pool noodle is too large. I’d use a piece of foam pipe insulation-probably 1.5-2” diameter. Or use the OEM window cover that attaches to the b pillar.

  10. #10
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    As said before I do the Karate Chop!

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tigershark48 View Post
    At only 20k miles, the top is still like brand new. The number one question is if the temporary fold will actually destroy the window if it stays in the down position all summer or will it simply stretch itself smooth every winter with the top back up?
    No, it'll be fine. Cars with hardtops have the roof down all winter and it's fine.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by BladeRunner919 View Post
    No, it'll be fine. Cars with hardtops have the roof down all winter and it's fine.
    I can add to this: I bought my emiata window from a guy who had it sitting, new in box, for at least a couple of years. When I put it on, I couldn't get the vertical wrinkles out of it. But, after a few weeks they were almost gone.

  13. #13
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    I think that the area at the fold gets scratched by any dust on the window, then it is folded, and any vibration of movement of the top in the well is going to grind the dust into the fold.

    So so I try to put a clean towel (bath size) rolled up and pushed into the crease (easiest done when the top is about 1/2 way folded back. Push the towel in and make sure the window is folded correctly, and the towel helps keep the plastic from rubbing on itself and scratching the plastic window.

    Keeping it clean also helps I am sure.

    Greg
    Tally Ho


    http://wcwebs.net/johnson
    1988 O'Day 322 sailboat - (unlimited mpg)

    2000 BMW Z3 M Roadster (25 mpg - but who cares)

    2019 Subaru Outback
    (30+ MPG)

  14. #14
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    +1 ^ I stop about a 1/4 way down and make sure the window folds flat insert the rolled towel and lower all the way. A towel in the well is the only other thing I do but hey.. it’s a ragtop with a plastic rear window waddayagonnado

  15. #15
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    When I dropped it today, I karate chopped it and it curved in very nicely. I could see the perfect curve with it fully retracted. No worries.

  16. #16
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    Karate chop an old brittle oem window and your hand can go right through. It happened to me with just a careful push.
    Last edited by Dakar Ole; 05-25-2019 at 09:46 PM.

  17. #17
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    Mine is a 2000, but the top and window are like brand new. Probably because it was stored indoors and always driven with the top down.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dakar Ole View Post
    Karate chop an old brittle oem window and your hand can go right through. It happened to me with just a careful push.
    I replaced my window last summer with an OEM replacement. To clarify, I do a slow motion karate chop.

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