So I recently decided to jump on an rktune chip for my 1995 325i, swapping out the chips was fast and easy, no problems there. After the chip was put in, and I went to try to start the car, it refused to start. It cranks and cranks but will not do anything more. Once I popped the hood, I let a friend try to turn it over and as soon as the key hit the “on” position the main system relay started clicking rapidly. I messaged rktunes and the support told me to cut pin 7 out of the 20 pin connector, although I had 21 pins, did that and still no luck. I don’t hear the fuel pump priming, but I was told the fuel pump relay gets power from the main relay. The strangest Thing is, I pulled the dme and left the cover off and started the car, and after cranking for a few seconds it turned over and held idle... I shut the car off, put the dme cover back on and threw it where it belonged and tried to start it again with no luck whatsoever. I’m stumped! Did I do something wrong? I’ve heard it could be ews related but I thought ews would stop the car from doing anything.
Sounds like my experience and it ended up being EWS. Before overriding EWS though there were instances where I would crank the motor and it could still start like yours but then the next attempt it would not.
Last edited by ChuckDizzle; 05-23-2019 at 12:26 PM.
Thank you for the quick response! How did you overcome it? Did you bridge the wires under the glove box or did you cut pin #7?
It’s also possible to put the chip in the wrong orientation. That will cause the same no start situation you are describing.
I went back in and checked and it was oriented correctly. I pulled the dme cover off and it turned right over... as soon as I put the cover back on, it shut off... now I’m back to square one with the main relay going off and it not starting.
Update: after getting the car started, it had a pulsing idle and was running very rich. let it warm up and the idle got itself evened out, put the cover back on the dme and it shut off. 30 minutes later and I’m still scratching my head🥺
Theres an internal short in your dme. I had one sort of like that. The short is causing a voltage reading issue from your 02 and other sensors,.
Nobody would recertify these machines after somebody screwed with them without any visibility into what they did.
HONK! HONK! Clown car coming through!
-Oakdizzle
If you buy a DME online you can just install it, no need to have BMW do anything to it, at least that is how it worked on my Hyundai Veloster 2014, but who knows on these older cars.
I saw some DME's on ebay for like 15 bucks shipped already, so they are cheap enough, I am considering one myself as I think my DME might be causing some idle issues on my car as it acts as if the ICV is not working (even though I changed it).
The chip you have holds the ews, the dme is just the hardware of sorts to allow the software on the chip work. Thats the best lamens way i can explain it on the relationship btween the 2. There is not fix for a internally shorted dme, just replace. You should be able to buy one for under $150. Silver or red doesnt matter as its only the software on the chip that is the difference.
A failing dme wont cause idle issues, vacuum leaks will.
Nobody would recertify these machines after somebody screwed with them without any visibility into what they did.
HONK! HONK! Clown car coming through!
-Oakdizzle
Its ironic.. I purchased a tune chip for my 3l stroker engine. And it also refuses to start. The seller sent a second chip, still no start. It cranks and cranks and gets the single fire that lumps it like its trying to start, but still wont. I get cel 1281 (dme internal memory fault). Fuel pump is priming, and supposedly ews delete (car also has ews bypass). I think its probably the $40 tune chip. Haha. Who wouldve thoaght id get ripped off? Jkjk. Car runs without a problem with the 2.5l turner tune chip.
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