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Thread: m62tu Rod Knock (Probably Maybe.)

  1. #1
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    m62tu Rod Knock (Probably Maybe.)

    Hello,

    For a while now on my M62tu engine I've noticed a knocking sound originating from somewhere under the car, near the engine compartment.

    To me it sounds like its coming from the bottom end of the engine.


    I checked the oil filter and saw some copper particles. F.

    https://imgur.com/xCgEH51


    Ill post a video tomorrow. Got too dark... It seems like it sounds better after it runs up to temp.

    The sound is coming from the right side of the engine bay. Sounds like a little bit of vanos clunk but its too high pitch.
    Last edited by upbeatgfx; 05-22-2019 at 08:56 PM.

  2. #2
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    Copper is never a good sign in an engine. Do you know of the maintenance history on that motor? I would upload a video, but also send in a oil sample to Blackstone (or another lab) for a final analysis. It's difficult to fully diagnose engines from external sounds alone (unless it's obviously rod knock).
    -Chris

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    copper = rod or crank bearing toasted! Likely rod. Stop driving it and pull the oil pan. Wiggle each rod end to try and locate the bad one. If not too far toasted, you may be able to swap in a new bearing and be fine. If the crank journal is scored up, you best bet is to get another motor.
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  4. #4
    JimLev's Avatar
    JimLev is offline Artifically Aspirated Moderator
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    Gonna need to pull the lower as well at the upper oil pan to get at the bearings.
    If you pull the coil connector off one at a time you may be able to find the cylinder that is knocking.

  5. #5
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    Weird, after I drive it for atleast 10 minutes its pretty quiet. Sometimes it sounds like an s62 that has rod knock. Taking a video now. Hopefully it makes the sound.

    Extra information:

    Oil: 5w-40 full synthetic changed 550 miles ago
    Car history: Literally none. I bought the car intending that the engine will soon need to be replaced. So no harm there. It was originally a lease car which confuses me. Sometimes has chain startup noise.
    Im going to drop the lower oil pan anyways to check for guide bits and gaskets. How much more work is the upper one?

    I believe the best route for me at this point is to buy an engine or try to find one. Re-Build vanos and timing chains and then just replace it.
    Last edited by upbeatgfx; 05-23-2019 at 03:23 PM.

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    JimLev is offline Artifically Aspirated Moderator
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    A short start up rattle is usually the vanos.
    The upper oil pan isn't easy to take off if your doing it from under the car.
    Almost easier to pull the engine.

  7. #7
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    I assume the sub-frame needs to be dropped so in conclusion I should start looking for a lower mileage engine... seems impossible to find.
    Any suggestions? How is Bavarian auto recycling? Some prices are outrageous over $1400.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by upbeatgfx View Post
    ....
    Im going to drop the lower oil pan anyways to check for guide bits and gaskets. How much more work is the upper one?

    I believe the best route for me at this point is to buy an engine or try to find one. Re-Build vanos and timing chains and then just replace it.
    -- No need to work on to replace the upper oil pan gasket.
    -- Drop the lower oil pan, check for bits of plastic - and if none found, replace the gasket, and put it back. If you find any bits of broken plastic: do the timing chain guides replacement job, including Vanos rebuild and retiming the engine.
    -- Also, replace the timing chain tensioner anyway.
    Last edited by Chedley; 05-23-2019 at 06:12 PM.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chedley View Post
    -- No need to work on to replace the upper oil pan gasket.
    -- Drop the lower oil pan, check for bits of plastic - and if none found, replace the gasket, and put it back. If you find any bits of broken plastic: do the timing chain guides replacement job, including Vanos rebuild and retiming the engine.
    -- Also, replace the timing chain tensioner anyway.
    And how does this address the rod knock?????

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