Picking up 95 m3 and looking to go turbo ! My power goal is 500 wheel on pump 93 and if that not achievable I don’t have an issue running water /meth .
how much torque can the stock rods handle ?
if the block needs built ,can I get away with rods pistons head gasket head studs , and fresh bearings ?
or do you fall down the rabbit hole of ... since your in there .... and if so what else would need done ?
How good is the stock valve train ?and woukd head porting be recommended or worth it at my desired power levels ?
stupid question which I know is yes but , does the rotating assembly need balanced ?
has anyone pieced their own turbo kit together ? As I have a manifold , treadstone ic, tial waste gate ,tial bov, precision turbo, I have a friend that will fab up my ic piping , and exhaust , what else would I need besides clamps silicone couplers ,and fueling ?
s54 oil pump or pan ? M50 intake manifold ? Which walbro fuel pump and and what size injectors ?
do I need a catch can ?and are the stock fuel rails and lines ok ?
What are you going to use the car for?
500whp is about the limit of reliability of the stock rods and stock ungapped piston rings on pump gas. If you are comfortable working on engines you could add some safety margin by disassembling the bottom end, putting K1 rods in it, re-gapping the rings, and putting it back together.
Good preventive maintenance things to do are new chain guides and a safety wired oil pump nut. There is no reason to change bearings unless they show unusual wear. Rebalancing the crank would be flushing money down the toilet as would getting the head ported. The valve retainers on the early 95 M3 motors were known to fail but if it was going to happen it probably would have by now. Again not a bad idea to replace them and the valve seals when you get the head skimmed. You will need some means of lowering the compression ratio such as the cutring and spacer combo or decompression rods. Beyond that nothing new should be needed.
Most of us put together our own turbo kits, lots of info on components. If you are going to get the stock ecu tuned you buy that as a package that comes with injectors and a maf sensor. I would get 80 lb injectors. You already have an m50 manifold. You need to boost proof the ICV fitting in the manifold as well as the hoses. Yes you will need to route the crank case vent to a catch can and possibly enlarge the vent hole in the valve cover. Don’t forget a clutch as well.
I will just be daily driving it back and forth to work , with occasional highway pulls.
So to be on the safe side , rods should be dog along with the preventative measures you listed,
whst about pistons ?do they need changed ?
yup , I read up on the copper spacer and the cutting gasket . And arp head studs .
I will be looking to piece together my own kit as well . Is there a there a thread that lists fittings accessories or any info like that ?
and what is everyone using for a clutch ? Something that does not give you a calf workout if your in traffic
stock flywheel or light weight ? I don’t mind chatter ..
Turbo wise I can get 3582 or precision 6062,
oh and for top mounts how do you deal with oil drainage issues that they have ?
Top mounts shouldn’t have oil drain issues. Some bottom mounts need scavenge pumps but it’s not a difficult solution.
- - - Updated - - -
I have a bunch of turbo parts that need a new home if you are interested.
Pm me what you have extra
I think 600whp is reliable too. Been driving mine at 600whp and 580wtrq for 2 years on pump gas. Results may vary but if you have a bigger turbo you should be fine.
TRM Tuning with a cutring, cams, 3.2L Borg Warner 64MM turbo and treadstone intercooler. Stock bottom end.
Just pump gas
Bookmarks