So a few months ago I see this z3 on Bay Area CL. I was searching for a drop top 5 speed to replace my beloved e30 325is I had to sell when I went to fly for the airlines. Guys asking 1500 and says it runs but needs work and says he doesnt think it’s the head gasket. I think to myself; it’s worth checking out. Owner send me a video of it running and not over heating. It’s also a 6 and not the 4 cyl he has it listed as.
My interest is peaked.
After looking at it it’s clear rodents have been living in it. But it moves and stops under its own power just won’t rev over 2k rpm. I offer him $400 expecting him to counter and is to settle around 5-6. He accepts the 4! I use girlfriends aaa to tow it 80 miles home.
It begins.
Capet is soaked.
I pull the code and find it’s for the throttle body( can you guess where this is going?)
I pull the air box during the oil change
(I love putting fresh fluids in old bmws)
And find the throttle is simply stuck
I pop it loose w my finger and clean it.
It runs great!
Rats did chew the o2 sensor on the chassis side. In a happy accident I ordered the precat o2 sensor which had the connector for the post car o2 sensor. I cut it and splice in. A hack job but good for now.
Diff fluid looks new. Didn’t even need to change it.
Btw the car is a 2.3 which I soon learn is a m52tu.
Vanos doesn’t need rebuild. And coming from the e30 I am impressed by the Siemens engine management.
Car passes smog and runs great but is all over the road. I bought some ds2s and new tires and it tracks amazing. Didn’t even need an alignment.
I am blown away. And can’t stop laughing as I wheel around town in my new roadster.
I fall in love.
Current issues.
1. Abs light on intermittently. I have one short and one long wheels sensors to swap out and try to fix abs
2. Car is now cutting out at wot above 5000rpm code says vehicle speed sensor. Could this be because I am running a 235/45/17? I know it is oversized slightly but I like the additional sidewall.
3. This could be related to the other two but I think the water may have gotten to the yaw sensor (drivers footwell right?)
Is this causing my inop dsc?
4. Windows don’t work.
5. Heater doesn’t work.
I don’t miss my e30 anymore. It’s cool having a z3 as I can feel it’s the next generation but it still has the e30 rear. What a cool car. Eventually I will get a m roadster but I really want to get to this car better both to appreciate the m more and learn the chassis.
So that’s it for now I wanted to
Introduce myself and the car. Looking forward to leaning more about obd2 (which so far, is great) and driving. This is the best driving car I’ve ever driven. and it’s on stock springs.
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Congratulations, and a great platform to start from. Love the wheels!
‘98 Z3 2.8 roadster, Montrealblau/tan 5sp, M50 manifold, AFE intake, SuperSprint catback, Bilsteins, BAVAuto sport springs, Style 42 BBS
Congratulations. Looks really nice on the outside.
Check for cracked subframe spot welds on floor in trunk. Don't want the rear end falling off.
Last edited by Tigershark48; 05-21-2019 at 10:50 AM.
Seems like a great deal. Congrats sir!
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For $400 how can you go wrong!
My drivers seat was doing something similar. I bought a matching passenger seat at a salvage yard for $200 and swapped the seat bottom over the drivers side. I also re-dyed all the leather in the interior so it all matched.
1. Z3's are famous for dying ABS modules, worth to do some research on that. Having someone resolder the module is relatively cheap, easy to do and often fixes all issues.
2. This is because of the ABS fault, when you drive around without the ABS module in place (waiting for it to return in the mail) you get the same error code.
3. Yes, the yaw sensor is under the driver seat and they often die in cars that have a leaky convertible top.
4. No idea
5. Do you have heat at higher RPMs (2000+)? Does it reach operating temperature relatively quick? Cheapest fix would be that the cooling system needs a bleed, otherwise the thermostat might be suspect. Check the coolant level in the expansion tank when cold.
Welcome!
Looks like you scored a hell of a deal.
Time to invest in a cheap airbag reset tool to eliminate the other warning light you're dealing with.
Zed's dead baby. Zed's dead.
No heat any any rpm. I’m pretty sure the dial isn’t connected to anything.
Can the yaw sensor be repaired?
Where can I get a abs module? It’s normal for it to be intermittent?
There are some loose welds in the trunk. Is it totaled?
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Not totalled, but needs attention. Randy Forbes reinforcement kit is the number one solution. PM him on this forum for details.
The Yaw sensor can't be repaired, but you can buy replacement ones on eBay. It is located under the driver's seat, you'll probably need to remove the seat to get to it. Make sure you find the electrical connector(s) to the seat, there may be one or two. Don't turn on the ignition while the seat is disconnected!
Marty
I already did that, see pic #2
Am I reading this correctly the abs module can cause an intermittent abs light and a p500 vehicle speed speed sensor code
Whats the fix for the abs module? does anyone perform this service?
This car is so buttery smooth, 3rd gear bliss...it really is a generation newer and more refined than the e30. Im so spoiled
Last edited by Ghostfalcon; 05-22-2019 at 10:18 PM.
Yes, you're reading that correctly. Read the codes out of the ABS module with a BMW scanner, that'll tell us what is wrong with it and how to proceed.
Can someone recommend a shifter upgrade? is the z4 shorter throw im looking for a +1 upgrade so slightly shorter, but noticeable. My car has the getrag though not sure the model, i heard these came w zfs as well? what the preferred trans and why?
I like ZHP weighted/shorter one: Search:
BMW M ZHP SHIFT KNOB E30 E36 E46 E28 E34 E39 Z3 M3 5-SPEED
(edit - looking at the pic it looks like you might already have it?)
you probably want to invest in a USB Diagnostic cable.
yep, it's a E36/7 which really is only the front end E36 gen, the E30 rear end is what really makes this car unique in many ways including some of those broken spot welds, inspect your diff mount area too!
yep, 3rd gear is quite magical, I think you can do 10-80, the smoothness is the m52tu dual vanos and DME ECU from E46 gen.
I have the getrag - think it was standard on 2.5L, and bigger engines got the ZF. My getrag with OG clutch at 157k has been problem free - do recommend and enjoy Amsoil for smoother shifting.
Last edited by ZGator; 05-25-2019 at 11:33 AM.
“Great wisdom is generous; petty wisdom is contentious.” 无为
Is your brake switch good? Could cause ABS light as well.
Hell of a deal!
E36/8 2000 M Coupe Cosmos Black/Black
Shark, Conforti CAI, B&B Exhaust, H&R, Bilstein, AKG Subframe/Diff, UUC TME Red/Caps, Swapped Front Hats, Ice>Link.
================================================== =======================
congrats! Handsome car.
2000 M Roadster (Estoril Blue)
2018 Jeep Wrangler (Daily driver)
Brake pedal switch, they sometimes go bad and cause the cruise control to not work anymore. I guess they could disturb ABS function too. That switch will show up in the engine computer (DME) error memory as "brake pedal switch signal unplausible" or something like that if it is faulty.
So I just came back from mechanics. He couldn’t get the scanner to talk to the abs. Nothing. Would a faulty control unit cause this? I also DID get the brake pedal implausible code.
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Oh forgot to mention we couldn’t reset the steering angle sensor
Also my lights, and I mean the entire electrical system pulses; headlights and all dash lights pulse in intensity. Could this be a bad alternator? If so is it just the voltage regulator or do I need a new group of windings?
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I had a very slight flickering in my dash lights and overall weak voltage, it was the voltage regulator on the alternator. Wasn't noticeable in the headlights though. The voltage regulator is easy to replace when the alternator is out of the car. The diode board and the windings usually never need replacement.
What does a voltmeter connected to the car while it's running say, is the voltage fluctuating a lot?
Last edited by me77; 06-05-2019 at 05:45 PM.
The headlight and all dash lights dim noticeably. I haven’t checked the voltage but it’s pretty clear it’s fluctuating. I read in another thread alternator can cause these codes but it was for the “normal” e36 chassis
In summary
Codes present:
Brake pedal travel sensor disagree
Vehicle speed sensor.
Symptoms :
Dsc abs light
I feel like this could be like 3 different problems each caused by 3 different failures.
I’m concerned the scanner couldn’t talk to abs unit, I hope the rats didn’t get to some sort of data transfer wire
I’ve never enjoyed a car so much as this one. Even w the lights. I’m a pilot, and I like all my systems to work.
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