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Thread: Best way to power a 4 gauge power distribution block?

  1. #1
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    Best way to power a 4 gauge power distribution block?

    I've got several accessories that I would like to power, including a 500 watt monoblock Alpine amp, a 200 watt Memphis Nanobox, a 50 watt ham radio, and a 100 watt ham radio. The 500w amp and the two ham radios will be located in the trunk, while the Nanobox will be in the passenger footwell. I need to run from the battery to a distribution block. I check this chart from Crutchfield

    and although it appears that I could use 8 gauge wire to feed the block, I have a bunch of 4 gauge on hand and was planning on using it for the short run from the battery to the block, maybe 6 feet, max.

    What would be the best way to securely attach a 4 gauge power wire to the positive terminal of the battery in the trunk? Any pictures of what has worked for you (just the battery side, I don't need to see the distro. blocks)?

  2. #2
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    I'm guessing that I can just attach the terminal under the nut at the bottom of this photo. Does that sound about right? 20190520_170948.jpg

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  4. #4
    JimLev's Avatar
    JimLev is offline Artifically Aspirated Moderator
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    I'd connect it to the distribution block right above the battery. There are 2 or 3 unused fuses there.
    Getting the cover off without breaking it is a bit tricky.
    What kind of ham radios are you installing? I've got a Kenwood TS-2000 in my house and a Yaesu VX-6R/E hand held.

    DSCN8326a.JPG

    Backside view
    FuseBox_Cover.jpg

  5. #5
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    AF7FQ here, I'll be running a Yaesu FT-857D 100w shack-in-a-box and an AnyTone AT-5888UV III Tri-Bander. I own a 220 MHz repeater so I need all three bands. Otherwise, I'd run one of my Kenwood TM-V71a radios. I've got that Yaesu VX-6 too. It's a great little HT.

    Anyway, I could get side-tracked on radio discussions for months, so we'd better get back to the power distribution question. I see that you have a pretty large (8ga maybe?) power wire coming from the far right of the box in your car. Would it be possible to run the 500w amp direct from the battery on 8ga wire (40 amp fuse inline), the 200w Nanobox from the factory distro box on a 30 amp fuse, and both ham radios on a single 20 amp fuse (I'll only be transmitting on one at a time of course) from the distro box? Would I be better off with my original plan of installing a dedicated bus bar for these accessories?

  6. #6
    JimLev's Avatar
    JimLev is offline Artifically Aspirated Moderator
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    Yes, that's an 8ga wire for my 400w JL Audio amp and a 125w sub, so it is more than enough for your 500w amp.
    You could use a buss bar setup or go to unused fuses like I did.

    Your radios look like they draw 22A and 15A on transmit so power them from their own wire, 10ga should be fine.
    As for your Nanobox sub another 8ga should be fine.
    73's KG5UPX

    more....
    If your want a buss bar setup this is the one I used for the hotrod I'm building.
    https://www.amazon.com/Fastronix-Pow...ay&sr=8-2&th=1

    Are those radios going into your E39? What are you using for a mobile antenna?
    Last edited by JimLev; 05-21-2019 at 11:11 AM. Reason: added more...

  7. #7
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    Yes, the radios will be in the E39. This car will be replacing my current DD, and as such, I will be taking a 4000 mile road trip this summer. The radios keep me from getting bored on the trip. While at home commuting, I use and monitor the VHF/UHF bands daily.

    The triband antenna is a Diamond 320 https://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Origi...sr=1-3-catcorr

    For HF, I use a pair of MFJ monoband whips in 20 and 40 meters. I have a manual switch in the car. When band conditions change, I may go back to my Yaesu ATAS antenna.

  8. #8
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    I got the amps and subs in today, and it sounds absolutely amazing! I was correct in assuming that the sealed 12" sub in the trunk would need something in the cabin to round out the mid/low range. I tried it without the Nanobox and there was just too much missing in that range. With the Nanobox, I can keep the gain on the 12" turned down to a reasonable level, push enough bass through the stock speakers for good mids without distortion, and have the punchiness that I wanted that the Nanobox delivers. My bluetooth aux input showed up today so I got it installed too. Now I just need to fine tune my gains and pass filters, tuck all the wires, and finish installing my Yaesu FT-857D and I'll be all set for my 4000 mile road trip in July.

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