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Thread: Febi vs. Original BMW Timing Chain Tensioner M62tu Engine

  1. #1
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    Febi vs. Original BMW Timing Chain Tensioner M62tu Engine

    I have a one second start up slap on cold start. PO states he replaced timing chain tensioner with an aftermarket part a few years ago.

    From what I understand the new updated OEM tensioner is longer with a better spring.

    Also, is a failing or defective tensioner replacement a possible cure to a cold start up 1-2 second timing chain slap?

    What's the difference between the two? Which one would you purchase? Thanks in advance

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    You should get the INA tensioner it's about half the price as BMW on FCP . PN: 11317531813 . It probably won't stop the start-up slap, but that sounds normal really. Mine does it also every morning, because it works on oil pressure, and the oil drains out over night or if it sits too long.

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    Hey! If you feel like the oil pressure is draining maybe your oiling system is crudded up. Do you seafoam or use other engine flushes from time to time? I do a LiquiMoly Engine Flush every other oil change, and my engine looks almost new inside at almost 100k.
    Last edited by jicaino; 05-21-2019 at 12:18 AM.
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    Sorry to piggyback on this thread but I didn't feel like it was worth creating an entirely new one. I have the rattle on startup like some have described and so many videos and threads have recommended changing out the timing chain tensioner as a preventative measure. However, I stumbled on another thread here on bimmerforums that mentioned potential problems that a new chain tensioner could cause if the guides are older (more pressure being applied?). My guides were replaced about 15-20K mi. ago but I didn't see mention of the tensioner being replaced.

    I ended up buying the BMW replacement (https://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin...mshaft%20Chain) since its a relatively inexpensive piece to replace compared to having to jump in and have the TCGs replaced altogether.

    Would it be a good idea to swap it out? I really only get the chain rattle on startup overnight. During the day I don't hear the same rattle.

    Also, I can faintly hear the chain running while the car is idling. I've had my oil changed recently and have put only about 1500 miles on the car since. The car has about 186K miles so is it pretty normal to be able to hear the chain movement in the engine bay? From within the car, I don't hear it but if I'm close to a wall or something I can hear it faintly. Its definitely not a slapping or loud diesel like noise as has been described. I'm just wondering if replacing the tensioner would help soften that sound overall.

    I get the sense I'm just being paranoid but I'd like to do as much preventative maintenance as possible.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by adriankeith View Post
    Sorry to piggyback on this thread but I didn't feel like it was worth creating an entirely new one. I have the rattle on startup like some have described and so many videos and threads have recommended changing out the timing chain tensioner as a preventative measure. However, I stumbled on another thread here on bimmerforums that mentioned potential problems that a new chain tensioner could cause if the guides are older (more pressure being applied?). My guides were replaced about 15-20K mi. ago but I didn't see mention of the tensioner being replaced.

    I ended up buying the BMW replacement (https://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin...mshaft%20Chain) since its a relatively inexpensive piece to replace compared to having to jump in and have the TCGs replaced altogether.

    Would it be a good idea to swap it out? I really only get the chain rattle on startup overnight. During the day I don't hear the same rattle.

    Also, I can faintly hear the chain running while the car is idling. I've had my oil changed recently and have put only about 1500 miles on the car since. The car has about 186K miles so is it pretty normal to be able to hear the chain movement in the engine bay? From within the car, I don't hear it but if I'm close to a wall or something I can hear it faintly. Its definitely not a slapping or loud diesel like noise as has been described. I'm just wondering if replacing the tensioner would help soften that sound overall.

    I get the sense I'm just being paranoid but I'd like to do as much preventative maintenance as possible.
    One or more of your non return valves may be partially crudded up. Have you flushed your oiling system with a cleaner like liquimoly or seafoam? also, I'd change the tensioner, with new(ish) guides it cannot hurt. Your symptoms makes me think your car's an ideal candidate for a couple of flushes then keeping it clean with one flush every other change. And not to start an oil thread, but try Motul XCess 5W40 sometime, it's a very nice oil and quiets down the M62TU quite a bit.
    Diehard E39 driver.
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by adriankeith View Post
    I really only get the chain rattle on startup overnight. During the day I don't hear the same rattle.
    If you didn't have the vanos o-ring replaced it's the oil draining out of the vanos over night that is causing the 1-2 sec rattle when you start it up in the morning.
    After you start it up in the morning the vanos fills up with oil so you don't hear any rattle.
    I had the same problem until I replaced the vanos o-rings.

    Could be the check valves behind the vanos solenoids too (mine were fine) like Jicaino mentioned too.
    Last edited by JimLev; 06-17-2019 at 03:59 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    If you didn't have the vanos o-ring replaced it's the oil draining out of the vanos over night that is causing the 1-2 sec rattle when you start it up in the morning.
    After you start it up in the morning the vanos fills up with oil so you don't hear any rattle.
    I had the same problem until I replaced the vanos o-rings.

    Could be the check valves behind the vanos solenoids too (mine were fine) like Jicaino mentioned too.
    I thought the valves were going first causing the o rings to crap out... Your experience proves me wrong.

    What I do observ is that most castrol users have very gunky, caked engine internals, maybe leading to premature failure on solenoids, TCGs, etc. Even following preventive oil changes... (again, not to start an oil argument)
    Diehard E39 driver.
    I'd rather die or take a walk before driving an E60 or any BMW made after Y2K.
    ​"Your momma's so ugly she makes Bangle cars look nice"

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    When your TCGs and VANOS seals crap out is mostly just luck of the draw.

    Oil additives like Seafoam don't do anything for an engine that's already clean but sometimes they can help if an engine is gunked up. Once it's cleaned out just change the oil regularly, oil has detergents in it already. I had an Integra with nearly 300k miles and the valvetrain was immaculate, no additives just regular oil changes for 20 years.
    Last edited by MotorMouth93; 06-17-2019 at 06:47 PM.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by MotorMouth93 View Post
    When your TCGs and VANOS seals crap out is mostly just luck of the draw.

    Oil additives like Seafoam don't do anything for an engine that's already clean but sometimes they can help if an engine is gunked up. Once it's cleaned out just change the oil regularly, oil has detergents in it already. I had an Integra with nearly 300k miles and the valvetrain was immaculate, no additives just regular oil changes for 20 years.
    Detergents crud up too, my friend. If you don't want to spend on fancy flushes, just add one cup of premium diesel fuel into your up-to-operating temp oiling system, go for a spin or two at light loads moderate RPM, and after letting it idle for 5 to 10 minutes drain it, leaving it over 30 minutes bleeding. This procedure keeps everything cleaner than a clean engine with regular oil changes. See my engine, it has almost 100k miles in it.
    Diehard E39 driver.
    I'd rather die or take a walk before driving an E60 or any BMW made after Y2K.
    ​"Your momma's so ugly she makes Bangle cars look nice"

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