What did you guys conclude would be best bang for buck to get the stock bushings replaced: OEM or almost OEM bushings, polyurethane bushing inserts, aftermarket bushings, or replace the whole front thruster arm.
Since this seems to be a common ailment I am leaning forward to just using polyurethane bushing inserts.
Anyone have any other suggestions or recommendations?
there was just recently a thread about one persons installation of new arms with lemforder bushings that failed in short order. with a lot of follow up threads attached by others. as far as just replacing the bushings, how are the ball joints on the other ends of the arms? they are not replaceable units. how many miles on the car? i replaced mine with all new, with poly bushings.
My story....540 not a 530
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...bushings-today
I replaced mine as part of my project's rehabilitation. I found a nice set of TRW struts for almost the same price as just a set of OEM bushings. As mattmar1 said, the ball joints aren't serviceable, so if you can find a reasonably priced set of struts, I'd do the whole thing.
Noticed you're in La Habra. Did you do these yourself by chance? I got a quote from a local shop and they said they'd do both sides including struts for $1650. Seemed pretty steep but I haven't looked into any other shops yet. This was a quote from Funfzehn in Orange. I'd love to do it myself but don't have the know how or tools/space.
I use oembimmerparts.com and 1aauto.com. i did my full front suspension struts and all for about $400 so far been about 8mo and no issue front end feel like new.
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Yes, I did them myself. I had the entire engine and cradle out of the car, replacing a blown engine. But I did the struts after everything was back in place. $1650 does seem expensive, but I suppose it depends on what they're charging for the struts. My friend lets me buy stuff at his cost so my parts cost is way cheaper than "normal." I don't have the price handy, but I think the cost for both struts was under $150.
It's not all that difficult, but you do need to be able to get under the car. The "hardest" part is popping the ball joint and that requires a special tool, but they're inexpensive. But, yes, one does need space, and at a minimum basic hand tools, jack stands and a creeper. Here in SoCal that space can be very difficult to come by. :-( As far as know-how, I had an old lady once tell me that "you learn to do by doin'!" Struts, IMHO, would be a good place to start to gain a bit of wrenching experience because you can't screw things up too badly.
Man, that strut job is way easier with a lift hahahaha. https://youtu.be/tLbwdpPYtIE. The guy doesn't even break a sweat but I'm sure I'll be cursing and struggling with every single bolt.
It doesn't seem terribly difficult but I don't have some of the tools like the air impact wrench and the spring compression tool. Everything else, I think I might be able to get by on.
As far as brands for new struts, what would you recommend?
if I have to get struts for my 530, I'm going with Bilsteins
There's some confusion. I believe the topic started out talking about the "tension struts," i.e. the long arms in front with the big bushings on one end, and the ball joint on the other. These are pretty easy to do and was what I was referring to. The McPherson strut is a fair amount more work. Still not beyond the capabilities of a shade tree mechanic, by any means. But a much larger job.
Tension strut, thrust arm: Same thing.
OP note that the OE/OEM bushing is oil filled rubber. Your options are:
- OE/OEM/aftermarket oil filled
- Meyle HD (solid rubber, not oil filled)
- Polyurethane or some other solid material
As you work your way down the list, each one induces a more harsh ride. I went with the Meyle HD as a good compromise in durability and ride.
Last edited by crazy4trains; 05-20-2019 at 04:08 PM.
This discussion is on this type of part...!
Current Garage Highlights
2003 525iT TiSilver
2002 M5 TiSilver
1998 528i KASCHMIRBEIGE METALLIC (301) (Goldie)
Former Garage Highlights
2005 X5 4.8is
2004 325iTs (2x)
1973 Pantera L
1971 Dodge Dart Swinger "Lite Package"
1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 340 Six Pack Alpine White
1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 340 Six Pack GoManGo Green
1969 Road Runner 383
1968 Barracuda Formula S 340 Sea Foam Green
I am leaning towards the Meyle front thrust arms with no bushings then use polyurethane inserts from UCC.
Tell us what you end up doing and how you like it.
Thanks for the clarification. I'm still learning here and I actually just got the two volume Bentley manuals. Quick question that I think is in line with the topic at hand -- I have a knock that happens when I'm slowing down or sometimes going in reverse to park. Its a subtle knock and the thrust arm bushing was mentioned when I last took my car in for an inspection. Would this exact part be the culprit or could something else be causing that knock? Watching the videos on replacing this tension strut/thrust arm looked to be fairly straightforward and I feel comfortable replacing it but I just want to make sure I don't need to order additional parts.
The one other thing I'd be concerned with is alignment or other considerations that should be made when replacing this part.
Also, I've seen people press out and replace the bushing. What's the case for replacing the entire thing vs. just replacing the bushing? I wouldn't have the tools for pressing out the bushing and replacing it so I'd likely just end up replacing the entire thing.
Sorry for all of the noob questions. I really want to tool on my own car rather than take it to a shop. I don't think this particular repair is out of my comfort zone.
knock could be the ball joint on the thrust arm or upper control arm as its aka. or another ball joint or bushing on lower control arm...
it would be nice to just replace the bushing but then the ball joint cant be replaced like the bushing so its cost effective to replace the whole thrust arm.
Definitely, replace the whole thrust arm, bushings and ball-joint included in the new part.
Better yet, is to replace both the upper and lower control arms (ie. thrust arm and control arm) on both sides of the car, then do an alignment.
These arms are $100 USD Just buy the arms (left and right) install, torque with FULL load on the front tires and you will notice a LARGE difference in handling, stopping, and clunks will be gone (pot holes, speed bumps, turning, etc) Easy on easy DIY project.
Link to my own full suspension rebuild on a 525 Wagon application: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...6-Wagon-update Starts on POST#14
Images are the three main kits from FCP Euro: Torsion Arms only, Front main parts, or all four corner complete set. $200 to $1,000. If you were on the East coast you could come by and see another E39 being done and we could install yours at the same time. Simple process of basic maintenance that everyone of these E39 should have done every 100K or sooner depending drivers right foot actions.
Last edited by StephenVA; 05-23-2019 at 06:03 PM.
Current Garage Highlights
2003 525iT TiSilver
2002 M5 TiSilver
1998 528i KASCHMIRBEIGE METALLIC (301) (Goldie)
Former Garage Highlights
2005 X5 4.8is
2004 325iTs (2x)
1973 Pantera L
1971 Dodge Dart Swinger "Lite Package"
1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 340 Six Pack Alpine White
1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 340 Six Pack GoManGo Green
1969 Road Runner 383
1968 Barracuda Formula S 340 Sea Foam Green
S I G H. Of course you guys are on the east coast. I'm out here in CA and was hoping to find some folks nearby that might be willing to help or at least watch me struggle as I work on it hahaha. I like ordering from Pelican Parts since they're really closeby and I can get the items in a day. Problem is they have stuff listed like "Front right forward" and "Front right rearward". Based on the images, I'm assuming I should be ordering the rearward piece but not sure? Might just order both as someone else suggested.
Thanks for the reply and the images. Helpful for sure.
So, looking at the middle picture of suspension parts posted above, it includes 4 parts: thrust/upper control arm, tie rods, control arms, and links. All for the front suspension of the car.
Use REALOEM.COM to find the correct part number. Then order the correct part number.
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