1266 VANOS System Check the wiring or the relay associated with the VANOS system (variable camshaft adjustment).
I think I was getting this code intermittently before where the CEL would come on and go back off soon, but now I have a solid CEL with this code and a little predictable flat spot at about 4K RPM, or maybe more like a power kick at 4k, surges a bit one way or the other revving through 4k..
Something strange the car was doing, sometimes if it was idling for a minute or so it would start running rough like the VANOS kicked on at idle. Sounded pretty much the same as if I jumped the vanos solinoid while idling to test it.. When the CEL was intermittent, but now the CEL stays on and it hasn't done that since the CEL says on..
This code means like the wiring of the vanos signal somewhere inbetween the DME and the vanos solenoid right?
I can understand it NOT powering 12v to the vanos when it is supposed to but can't really understand how it would sent power to the solenoid to kick it on at idle when their shouldn't be any power to it..
The vanos mech is new and the vanos solenoid works great. I tested the solenoid and it kicks fast and retracts freely..
So, some crazy wiring problem?
Ideas?
I'm thinking about running a wire into the car from the vanos solenoid plug +, to my test light, to ground, so I can see it light up when it sends power to kick on the vanos while driving, and see what it's actually doing..
Last edited by fasteddie313; 05-18-2019 at 08:46 AM.
E36 M3 S50 - E53 X5 M54 - 1980 Porsche 931 - 2001 Impreza RS25
You are correct that a 1266 is supposed to be something wrong with the VANOS solenoid wiring/connection. However, since that all seems to be fine, I wonder if it's something else that is throwing a phantom VANOS code.
Maybe take a look at your Idle Control Valve (ICV) or throttle position sensor and make sure those are operating correctly, since you mentioned weird idling issues. You can check the ICV by reading the resistances off the each pair of the three pins. Two sets should give you a particular resistance, and the third should give you about double the resistance. Also, make sure the resistance changes with the movement of the valve. If it just goes from X amount of ohms to 0 ohms instantaneously, something is wrong. I believe checking the throttle position sensor is the same deal, and should also move steadily from some resistance to 0 without dropping out.
This is a shot in the dark, but I've fixed a few seemingly random timing and VANOS issues by cleaning my ICV...
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