A few days ago, I realize the starting get a bit rough. The starting took longer time and there was some shaking as well. I looked up the forum and did the following:
1. no misfire error in the ECU
2. cleaned MAF
3. There is recurring P1421 code and I found the small hose linked to the 2nd air pump valve is broken and the valve has some rust color. So I replaced the valve and hose. I replaced the 2nd air pump a year ago and there is no rust/noise/dampness in the pump.
The car is not shaking so far while the prolonged startup still remains. Do I need to replace something now to avoid sudden failure? Is it starter?
Smoke test it to find all the vacuum leaks. Start running injector cleaner over the next 3 tanks of gas. Your injectors could be leaking down.
You CAM sensor could be on its way out. Use an old laptop and put INPA on it and get the cable off ebay.
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Today the only error p1421 shows up again. The 2nd air pump has no apparent noise. Is it the problem?
The SAP only comes on during cold weather so I don't know why that code shows during warm weather, you cleared the code and it came back?
Did you replace the valve that is on the exhaust manifold? You can test that the valve is not leaking by disconnecting the large hose from the SAP and blow in to the hose in the direction of the engine, no air should flow.
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Last time I didn't but this time I did. I use the glove to test if there is air leaking while engine is running as shown on YouTube. I don't feel obvious airflow.
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What's cam sensor? Where should I look after hooking up laptop? The start seems more struggling now.
ok, cam = camshaft sensor. I can associate the loss of power during drive with camshaft sensor issue. On youtube, there is a way to verify if camshaft sensor is good by measuring the voltage during metal contact. Given camshaft sensor is easy to access, is it better than hooking up computer?
The 2nd air pump code comes back all the time.
Finally get error code P0340. Ordering camshaft sensor to get over it.
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