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Thread: Drive shaft removal questions.

  1. #1
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    Question Drive shaft removal questions.

    I have to remove the drive shaft so i can replace the fuel tank. I took the rear part of the exhaust apart last night but after putting repeated pb blaster/wd40 on the downpipe bolts, they wont budge and i dont want to break them. I seen people just drop the exhaust and let it hang. However I am concerned about too much stress on the headers. Is this really ok? Will i be able to get the driveshaft out this way? (finding conflicting info on this). I have also got new trans mounts to install too. It looks like i will have room around the exhaust if i need to leave it on. AT this point, I have no problem putting the rear of exhaust back on, letting the whole thing hang so i can remove the driveshaft (guibo and csb needs to be changed anyways), then remove rear section again to drop tank. I just dont want to break headers or bolts or exhaust for that matter.

    I am also trying to figure out the best way to remove the driveshaft.

    Thanks!
    1987 BMW 325i Convertible


    “Speed has never killed anyone, suddenly becoming stationary… that’s what gets you.”
    Jeremy Clarkson


  2. #2
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    No e30s, again :(
    I have just let the exhaust hang to do that stuff. I also pulled it out of the way with a strap so I could get more room and it never caused problems.

    I am surprised the bolts didn't just come out of the exhaust manifold if they were so rusty. that's normally what happens
    No e30s again.

  3. #3
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    i have been known to not know my own strength (channeling Bullwinkle)... i dont have the expertise to fix a snapped stud... i am just afraid to make it much worse on me.... bad enough my toy is dead with dead fuel pump and need to swap tanks. New one showed up yesterday. I dont need to make it worse. Ill try that then...

    Did you let hang freely? or did you set the muffler on something?
    1987 BMW 325i Convertible


    “Speed has never killed anyone, suddenly becoming stationary… that’s what gets you.”
    Jeremy Clarkson


  4. #4
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    I've used milk crates in the past. May also be able to wire it up to something above for support.

  5. #5
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    No e30s, again :(
    I have let it hang. You can out a jack stand under the tip to support it if you want
    No e30s again.

  6. #6
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    https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzoma...1487/300055608
    This would help get those exhaust nuts loose
    Last edited by msservices; 05-14-2019 at 08:46 PM.

  7. #7
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    i have a propane one... was going to try that.
    1987 BMW 325i Convertible


    “Speed has never killed anyone, suddenly becoming stationary… that’s what gets you.”
    Jeremy Clarkson


  8. #8
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    I just removed the tank from our 325e, dropped the cat-back and got the drive shaft out past the catalytic converter.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  9. #9
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    I loosened the transmission mounts and lowered the rear of the transmission a few inches which gave me enough clearance to get the driveshaft out without removing the front half of the exhaust. Put a jack under the transmission and lower it an inch or so. Be careful you don't damage the fan or other parts connected to the engine.
    2004 525i Sport, Manual - 1985 325E Coupe Manual

  10. #10
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    i used heat and got 4 nuts off and one nut with its stud. bent u joint socket adapter 90 degrees. (insert Bullwinkle saying here). sent wife to get a new one. hopefully can get this last one off. putting this back on is gonna be fun

  11. #11
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    i got the last one out after new ujoint socket. Thanks for the tips... now i need to figure out best way to remove driveshaft and replace the trans bushings.
    1987 BMW 325i Convertible


    “Speed has never killed anyone, suddenly becoming stationary… that’s what gets you.”
    Jeremy Clarkson


  12. #12
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    No e30s, again :(
    transmission bushing are easy. just put the jack under the back and hold it up when you take out the old ones. if you lay under the front of the car and use a few long extensions on your ratchet, it makes taking those exhaust nuts off a bunch easier. and it doesn't put your universal in weird angles. you can go through the sway bar and steering stuff and get on the nuts from way less an angle than just using the ratchet and one extension
    No e30s again.

  13. #13
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    is it possible to get the bolts and nuts off of the guibo without removing trans brack? like an offset wrench?
    1987 BMW 325i Convertible


    “Speed has never killed anyone, suddenly becoming stationary… that’s what gets you.”
    Jeremy Clarkson


  14. #14
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    i think I messed up jacking up transmission to take out support.. it is now crooked.. won't seat down and like to be touching tunnel.just jacked it up about 1 in.. it looks like it shifted on the Jack.. how do i fix this?.

  15. #15
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    Last edited by doctorx69; 05-16-2019 at 10:58 PM.
    1987 BMW 325i Convertible


    “Speed has never killed anyone, suddenly becoming stationary… that’s what gets you.”
    Jeremy Clarkson


  16. #16
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    To me it looks like the drivers side of the crossmember needs to be shifted toward the back of the car, I would loosen the crossmember nuts and shift that side back with a pry bar

  17. #17
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    the transmission will not even touch the drivers side bushing. it is right under the hook for the transmission. the transmission is actually touching the top of the tunnel.. looks like it is in a bind. In the picture it is rotated clockwise about 5 degrees.
    Last edited by doctorx69; 05-16-2019 at 11:57 PM.
    1987 BMW 325i Convertible


    “Speed has never killed anyone, suddenly becoming stationary… that’s what gets you.”
    Jeremy Clarkson


  18. #18
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    Is it possible i got the crossmember backwards? it looked the same both way, but now it looks like driver side is higher. If it is, i feel stoopid. That is what i get for working past 9pm....
    Last edited by doctorx69; 05-17-2019 at 12:05 AM.
    1987 BMW 325i Convertible


    “Speed has never killed anyone, suddenly becoming stationary… that’s what gets you.”
    Jeremy Clarkson


  19. #19
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    No e30s, again :(
    I was going to say the cross member is on the backwards. swap it around and it will be good
    No e30s again.

  20. #20
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    while i straighten my mounts up.. (sheeze) I have the drive shaft in two pieces but has this rubber like substance that is real sticky in the splines. Can i use something like brake cleaner to clean it up and then lube it? I am still trying to get csb changed out. I dont want to put anything that would damage the driveshaft.
    1987 BMW 325i Convertible


    “Speed has never killed anyone, suddenly becoming stationary… that’s what gets you.”
    Jeremy Clarkson


  21. #21
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    No e30s, again :(
    yes, you can. under the nut at the center of the driveshaft is supposed to be a gasket, like a crush gasket, if I remember right, to keep water out of the driveshaft. after a while, it becomes that sticky stuff on the splines
    No e30s again.

  22. #22
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    ah that explains why it seems to be missing... ordered. Thanks
    1987 BMW 325i Convertible


    “Speed has never killed anyone, suddenly becoming stationary… that’s what gets you.”
    Jeremy Clarkson


  23. #23
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    it is amazing how much better it fits when YOU PUT IT IN CORRECTLY! it was backwards.... derp


    thanks
    1987 BMW 325i Convertible


    “Speed has never killed anyone, suddenly becoming stationary… that’s what gets you.”
    Jeremy Clarkson


  24. #24
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    No e30s, again :(
    No problem
    No e30s again.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by doctorx69 View Post
    I have to remove the drive shaft so i can replace the fuel tank. I took the rear part of the exhaust apart last night but after putting repeated pb blaster/wd40 on the downpipe bolts, they wont budge and i dont want to break them. I seen people just drop the exhaust and let it hang. However I am concerned about too much stress on the headers. Is this really ok? Will i be able to get the driveshaft out this way? (finding conflicting info on this). I have also got new trans mounts to install too. It looks like i will have room around the exhaust if i need to leave it on. AT this point, I have no problem putting the rear of exhaust back on, letting the whole thing hang so i can remove the driveshaft (guibo and csb needs to be changed anyways), then remove rear section again to drop tank. I just dont want to break headers or bolts or exhaust for that matter.

    I am also trying to figure out the best way to remove the driveshaft.

    Thanks!
    Yeah i was forced to snap off 3 of those 6 downpipe studs sadly, the shop the PO took the car to over tightened them like crazy and did not use any kind of anti-seize.

    If the downpipe to rear section looks rubbish, might as well separate the exhaust and get new bolts, copper nuts and crush rings/gaskets etc. Or if you fear snapping more hardware, drop the downpipe and rear section as one piece, but be aware it is really heavy. I removed those sections so many times to address some driveshaft/rear transmission "issues" a few weeks ago.

    So leave the headers on, if you snap any downpipe studs....headers must come off to drill them out/remove the broken studs. Lots of penetrating fluid and back and forth (tighten then loosen, then tighten, and loosen etc) is the safest way to remove exhaust rusted bolts/studs/nut but anything can happen.

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