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Thread: BMW 323i Running bad after sitting

  1. #1
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    BMW 323i Running bad after sitting

    Hello I just bought a 323i bmw manual that was sitting for over 2 years. It was running fine before no problems. When I went to drive it home the coolant started leaking and the engine overheated. The brakes didnt feel powerful enough maybe the brake fluid was low. The transmission makes grinding noise going into gear probably a tiny gunshot noise it was weird. After stopping to the side of the road putting in water in the radiator since I didnt have coolant and it was an emergency the car didnt overheat or leak coolant again drove fine except for the transmission and brakes.
    Would I need to change all fluids since it was sitting for this much time and now its running bad? Transmission, brake, oil, steering, coolant.

  2. #2
    dworthy's Avatar
    dworthy is offline Wagon meister :) BMW Tech Expert
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    Welcome to the Forum!

    There is a good chance that the fuel has gone bad if there was no stabilizers added.

    Brakes are going to be a problem, for I am sure they are rusted over, so all new pads and rotors.

    Fluids and a tune-up would be called for in this case, and worth the investment if you plan on making the car a daily driver.

    I am assuming it is a manual gearbox?
    Darin
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  3. #3
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    Yeah it is a manual gearbox. I'm going to check the transmission oil if its good.

  4. #4
    dworthy's Avatar
    dworthy is offline Wagon meister :) BMW Tech Expert
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    I am willing to bet that it has never been changed. Also have a look at the diff too, while you are under there.

    Pro tip: Always open the fill plug before you remove the drain plug.
    Darin
    Current:
    16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
    05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
    05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
    Past:
    95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
    84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
    91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
    82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
    79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
    79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
    M-Flight Member

  5. #5
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    Okay will do. The rear axle was making some noise will check that diff. I'm not going to see the car until weekend

  6. #6
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    The car has an engine made from aluminum. Do not overhear the engine or you’ll be stuck with a 500 pound paper weight!!! The entire cooling system needs to be replaced with an E46 (BMW’s chassis designation) of that age. Installing aftermarket cooling system parts is strictly verboten!

  7. #7
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    Yeah I'm looking into the coolant overhaul kit

  8. #8
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    Hello, my scanner picked up dtc codes which are p1250 BMW, p1519, p0170, p0173, p1189, p1188. My guess is that these codes came up because the gas went bad or oil since it was sitting and not changed. I will refill the gas and use marvel mystery oil. Also could be the MAF sensor or fuel pressure regulator as other people in this forum experienced

  9. #9
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    In order:
    1. Fuel pump and filter. I would just replace the filter, then check fuel pressure at the rail with the key at position 2 with engine off. Should read 50psi
    2. Vacuum leaks. All the vacuum hoses, both intake boots, CVV. Just replace. Then check DISA and dipstick rings. Smoke test after all this to see if you have vacuum leaks in the engine
    3. Sensors. If your pre-cat sensors are over 100k (125k if broadband) then replace them. Probably also issues with MAF

    Look at your long term fuel trims with OBDFusion and your phone. Ideal is +/- 2%

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by harrier View Post
    In order:
    1. Fuel pump and filter. I would just replace the filter, then check fuel pressure at the rail with the key at position 2 with engine off. Should read 50psi
    2. Vacuum leaks. All the vacuum hoses, both intake boots, CVV. Just replace. Then check DISA and dipstick rings. Smoke test after all this to see if you have vacuum leaks in the engine
    3. Sensors. If your pre-cat sensors are over 100k (125k if broadband) then replace them. Probably also issues with MAF

    Look at your long term fuel trims with OBDFusion and your phone. Ideal is +/- 2%
    Thanks will test in order

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