Hey guys,
I put together an engine for a buddy of mine recently that is building a street/drift car for fun. I am about to start it and break it in soon, and then will have some dyno sheets for you guys.
Basics:
-86.5mm
-M54B30 crank
-CP pistons 9.5:1 CR, ultra thick wrist pins
-Eagle rods
-stock mains
-ARP2000 10mm head studs
-cutring head gasket
-S54 oil pump and pan setup
-ATI damper
-supertech SS intake valves, inconel exhaust valves
-supertech dual valve springs (84#), Ti retainers
-S50 cams
-Steedspeed V2
-EFR 7670
-Vibrant HD clamps throughout IC system
-Treadstone FMIC
-115# injectors
-E85
-RK tunes
The idea behind this pairing was to create a ridiculous torque monster, with virtually zero lag. In drifting, you want a powerband like a WRC car, moreso than all top end power. Transient response needs to be as fast as possible, so we went with an EFR of course. This engine would make some incredible numbers with an 8374 or 9180, and he may switch to an 8374 after this if we find the 7670 to be too much of a bottleneck. The power goal is only 350-550 WHP/TQ, so we will easily achieve that, and he should have a nice reliable drift engine for the next 10+ years.
This engine is an exact copy of mine with the exception of the displacement, so I expect it should work excellent. Here are some pictures of the build. The fabrication work was done by Russell Walker of Walker Pro Motorsports, and the engine build was done by me.
45642456_10158432461849848_9131598081911947264_n.jpg45687323_10158432461669848_3590726005305638912_n.jpg45713836_10158432461674848_7729899482971635712_n.jpg45850232_10158432461644848_3831832605876027392_n.jpg45805304_10158432461624848_7574601458482413568_n.jpg
More pictures next post since I can only attach 5 at a time.
Mike
Last edited by MikeE36; 05-13-2019 at 05:41 AM.
IG: @mikevanshellenbeck
45825473_10158432457654848_2048911331058253824_n.jpg45683097_10158432462644848_7104886899935805440_n.jpg45671326_10158432462634848_1051742219825840128_n.jpg
More pictures to come. I am getting a bunch from Jason of the car and engine bay. This one should be a ripper!
Mike
IG: @mikevanshellenbeck
That looks great Mike.
Sexy build.
"Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind."
-Dr. Seuss
DIY BMW Tools. Charlie For President
Note that the S54 oil pump has a smaller volume than the M/S52 pump.
VAC sells a pump or will rework your S54 pump that contains M/S52 internals, for M/S52 volume.
S54 did not have to support hydraulic lifters, so pumped less volume.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last edited by bluptgm3; 05-14-2019 at 10:05 PM.
Hot diggity dog!! My dream build with no budget lol.
Yep, I am aware and I currently run the same oiling system with no issues. I may modify my pump to change rotors at some point, but honestly if I change much else I will switch to s54, or go dry sump entirely, or both. My 2888cc engine has worked exceptionally well for years, even hitting 7700 rpm on the 7000rpm limiter in 4th gear... it is still ticking just fine.
Mike
This is the no kids, no wife, great job budget
Mike
Last edited by MikeE36; 05-15-2019 at 12:21 PM.
IG: @mikevanshellenbeck
Honestly these engines from what I've seen have got to be actually a cheaper engine to build for what you get. They are absolute tanks if you do everything right.
Nice build! Mind sharing what you will gap the piston rings to?
Nice build. Any concern about over spinning the turbine wheel?
WOT
Looks awesome!
What motor mount did you guys decide to go with?
I like your over the subframe piping.
Yep, they are definitely tanks if you build them right. I've been on the same pistons and rods for the past 10 years with no sign of any issues at all.
They are gapped to whatever the spec sheet said for 30+ psi SC/turbo
Yes, we will be adding a speed sensor to the compressor housing before we start pushing the limits of the system.
The motor mount is a custom piece made by a local Houston fabricator.
Here are some pictures from Jason:
DSC_9422.jpgDSC_9364.jpgDSC_9355.jpgDSC_9346.jpgDSC_9342.jpg
Mike
IG: @mikevanshellenbeck
Why 9.5:1 with E85? For those power goals I would be at least 10.5:1. Its already going to be very responsive, but more compression certainty wouldn't hurt
Did you guys put the oil squirters back in or just plug them?
Last edited by Hova; 05-16-2019 at 04:11 PM.
"Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind."
-Dr. Seuss
DIY BMW Tools. Charlie For President
Yeah, I still have them in mine. I have a max of about ~55-60psi at redline. 5 psi hot idle. Oil analysis consistently comes back okay. I'll likely pull the engine at the end of this season and take a peek, but since it doesn't leak any oil, I really hate to pull it apart!
I think the added cooling is a good thing to have when you're making huge torque and on the rev limiter a lot. These things heat up REALLY fast on the limiter. I can start at battle (2 laps) at 185 F water and be at 225-230 F by the end of the 2nd lap. I think the squirters are a good idea to keep in this application, or any extended run time application that has a bunch of heat to deal with.
Mike
IG: @mikevanshellenbeck
I would keep them as well in a drift application since you often have next to no airflow through the radiator. I think using the oil as a coolant in that application is wise.
I have several reasons for not running them. Firstly I don’t feel they are needed for a drag application since I’m running alcohol, have cold oil temps, and have good cooling. More oil pressure at low rpms is a very welcome benefit since I’m hitting it with nitrous at 2800 rpms. Also a big consideration for me is making sure I don’t pump the sump empty under constant straight line acceleration. Being a front sump pan I’m surely loosing some oil to the back of the motor at launch, and from the launch on no oil is going to be returning to the sump due to acceleration, so if your spraying oil all over the crankcase I am concerned that it could litterally pump all the oil out of the sump into the back of the motor.
My basic philosophy on oil control is this. Oil is a lubricant. It’s a shitty coolant and an even worse fuel. The oil is supposed to be between the metal parts preventing them from eating each other, not flying around the crank case being beaten into a froth. Race teams spend considerable effort trying to get as much of the oil out of the crankcase with coatings and trays and dry dumps tuned to pull a vacuum so the oil can’t stay in suspension. Unless you really really need it to supliment the cooling system like Mikes car, I guess I don’t really know why you would want to take perfectly good filtered oil and pump it into the top of the crank case.
Bookmarks